Ash interior window (finished)(installed)

[Crazyraceguy]

This is another item for the for the job with the big bookcase, from a week ago.
It's solid Ash, even the custom sized Dominos, 5 x 60, for the inner structure.
It gets a rather large quarter-round stop, but that's tomorrow's job.

 

[Leemstradamus]

This is another item for the for the job with the big bookcase, from a week ago.
It's solid Ash, even the custom sized Dominos, 5 x 60, for the inner structure.
It gets a rather large quarter-round stop, but that's tomorrow's job.

That's crazy how big that is. Plus you on some McLaren technology center cleanliness!

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[PaulMarcel]

That's crazy how big that is.

Missed a perfect opportunity to say "that's a big Ash window!"  [tongue]

 

[Leemstradamus]

That's crazy how big that is.

Missed a perfect opportunity to say "that's a big Ash window!"  [tongue]

[emoji31] these opportunities don't present themselves often! [emoji23]

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[guybo]

Missed a perfect opportunity to say "that's a big Ash window!"  [tongue]

that's ash ing for trouble

 

[Rutabagared]

That's crazy how big that is.

Missed a perfect opportunity to say "that's a big Ash window!"  [tongue]

[laughing] I've been working a lot of ash lately (working my ash off?) . . . and when buddies stop by these come thick and fast - big ash table, big ash chair. . . and when my neighbor saw the 500bdft of it (all 8/4) in my basement . . .  well, you know.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I got some of the parts back from the finish department late this afternoon. It's stained so dark that it really wouldn't matter what it was made from. If you know what it is, you could still tell, if you got close enough. From across the room?
I don't know if I'm going to get enough of the interior parts to even start the final assembly tomorrow though.
Yeah, it's pretty big. The individual panes are roughly 22" x 21".

 

[woodbutcherbower]

I'm currently building ornate, complex windows for a schoolhouse built in 1879. Each one is 12ft wide x 9ft high with 18 casement frames in each one. They have a looney-tunes opening mechanism involving cast-iron pulleys, lead weights, iron rods and brass cup bearings, and they're covered with ornate mouldings which I've had to replicate like-for-like using one-off custom tooling for my spindle moulder.

And I'm building twelve of them. I feel your pain [member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Wow, [member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member] this is nothing nearly as complicated as that. These don't move at all. The biggest issue I have with this one is that it's going to be installed by someone else and they are going to have to insert the glass and the quarter-round stop in the field too.
Plus, there's only one of them.
How long does it take you to deal with 12? Sounds like a long-term situation.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] It’s pretty much three months work including installing them - which will be a several-guys job because they’re monumentally heavy. This was realistically a job for a factory with CNC and a dozen guys, but the client wanted them to be hand-built by a local joiner as they would originally have been, out of respect for the age of the building. Plus - the schoolhouse is what’s known over here as a ‘listed building’ = one which has special historical importance. Any replacement stuff has to look absolutely identical to the original. I was recommended to the client by the local Conservation Officer, having completed a pile of similar projects before.

One bottleneck I’m already frustrated by is the paintjob on the ones which are already complete = although the first two primer coats are acrylic, the flexible undercoat and two top coats (Sikkens eggshell) are oil-based and each coat takes 24 hours to dry. Plus - each frame is temporarily screwed to wide ‘feet’ enabling them to stand upright for both-sides painting access, leaving the underside unpainted. Once all 5 coats are on 95% of the structure, the feet then come off and the frame has to be flipped allowing the underside to be painted. That’s three more days of drying time. I’ve tried dozens of different water-based finishes over the years, and I’ve yet to find a single one which can hold a candle to the long-term durability of an oil-based finish. I’ll post some pics when they’re all done.

Kevin

 

[jeh]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] It’s pretty much three months work including installing them - which will be a several-guys job because they’re monumentally heavy. This was realistically a job for a factory with CNC and a dozen guys, but the client wanted them to be hand-built by a local joiner as they would originally have been, out of respect for the age of the building. Plus - the schoolhouse is what’s known over here as a ‘listed building’ = one which has special historical importance. Any replacement stuff has to look absolutely identical to the original. I was recommended to the client by the local Conservation Officer, having completed a pile of similar projects before.

One bottleneck I’m already frustrated by is the paintjob on the ones which are already complete = although the first two primer coats are acrylic, the flexible undercoat and two top coats (Sikkens eggshell) are oil-based and each coat takes 24 hours to dry. Plus - each frame is temporarily screwed to wide ‘feet’ enabling them to stand upright for both-sides painting access, leaving the underside unpainted. Once all 5 coats are on 95% of the structure, the feet then come off and the frame has to be flipped allowing the underside to be painted. That’s three more days of drying time. I’ve tried dozens of different water-based finishes over the years, and I’ve yet to find a single one which can hold a candle to the long-term durability of an oil-based finish. I’ll post some pics when they’re all done.

Kevin

Agreed that nothing can compete with an oil-based finish. We were all sold a bill of goods when oil paint was pushed aside for water-based. There are some very good water-based finishes, but you will not find those at the box stores. For a job like yours there was no choice and the finish will hold up for a very long time. I use California Paints (was Muralo) for all of my trim work. While not oil base it has a finish that is very close and it holds up over time. They no longer sell the Ultra High Gloss variety, but do sell theSemi-Gloss which is still very good. When Muralo was purchased by California Paints they dropped the line. There are even better paints, but the prices start moving north fairly quickly.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

3 months still sounds pretty quick [member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member]
I get big jobs like that, but they are usually broken up into phases, so I'm not tied up that long. Like those big tapered/radiused nurses stations last year. The first one took me nearly 60 hours. The head engineer and I made a change to the way they were to be assembled and the time was cut dramatically. Then, as I worked through them, improving my process, I got it down to 30. There were 8 of them to do, but not all at once. Most of them I was alternating one of those angled laminate gas stations between them, until the very end. When the time crunch happened, I did the last 3 in a row.
Sometimes I get jobs that last more than a year, but again, intermittent or in phases.

I think the most time I ever spent on one single job was that circular reception desk with the waterfall Corian front and butcherblock panels. I had almost 100 hours in that one.

It's really nice when someone respects the old buildings and the way things were done back then......and is actually willing to pay for it. They all think they want that until the estimate comes in [eek]
There are a few historic districts in my city that require that kind of detail. Some are exterior only and they don't really care about the inside. Others are just as strict on the interior finishings, down to paint colors and fabric patterns for curtains.

Yeah, be sure to post some pics, I would really like to see them.

I did get some more done on the window today, but we had a CNC issue this morning and that ate some of my time. Yes, even I run out of big Besseys once in a while. I had to scab two of them together for this one. That's 4 98s, 2 78s, a 60 and 24 with one of those attaching extrusions.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

It's as finished as I am going to get with it. The rest is up to the installers.
The stops are permanently installed on one side, cut and snapped in place on the other. The finished jamb is wrapped around the main frame, off-set for some reason? Well, that's not fair. It's off-set to match an existing unit, but I don't know why that one is like that?
I was going to send it with the first layer of trim installed on one side and the other side loose, but decided against it. It will be easier to handle with the bottom flat. Now the frames are going fully assembled and loose of the whole unit. It also gets an outer layer of trim, the one with the profile.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Installed/glass in.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Looks great buddy !!

 

[Packard]

As much as I appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into a counter-balanced sash window, I am reminded of an episode of This Old House.  In that TV show (set In Massachusetts) they pointed out that the empty void where the weight resides is uninsulated.  The accumulated heat loss from all those window sash voids is the equivalent of leaving your front door open 24/7.

They used some sort of flat spring in the track to hold the window open when required in place of the weights.  The windows looked pretty much the same either way.

Of course if you are restoring a building with historical accuracy, then weighted sash windows may be required.  For the rest of us, perhaps it is something to be admired from afar.

 

[PaulMarcel]

As much as I appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into a counter-balanced sash window, I am reminded of an episode of This Old House.  In that TV show (set In Massachusetts) they pointed out that the empty void where the weight resides is uninsulated.  The accumulated heat loss from all those window sash voids is the equivalent of leaving your front door open 24/7.

That reminds me of when I got the FlirOne thermal camera. All my suspicions and more about the shoddy insulation of my house were clearly verified. It also makes the most convincing "picture worth 1,000 words" demonstration of thermal bridging with framing.

 

[Packard]

As much as I appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into a counter-balanced sash window, I am reminded of an episode of This Old House.  In that TV show (set In Massachusetts) they pointed out that the empty void where the weight resides is uninsulated.  The accumulated heat loss from all those window sash voids is the equivalent of leaving your front door open 24/7.

That reminds me of when I got the FlirOne thermal camera. All my suspicions and more about the shoddy insulation of my house were clearly verified. It also makes the most convincing "picture worth 1,000 words" demonstration of thermal bridging with framing.

My childhood home, built in 1955, had rock wool insulation.  You could feel where the fire stops were on the exterior walls.  Above the stop, it would be warm, and below it would be cold.  The rock wool apparently settled over the years. 

And a girlfriend of mine lived in Levittown (Long Island).  The homes were wired by non-electricians and each connection had to be certified by a licensed electrician.  For that reason they left the area around the junction boxes uninsulated.  No house wraps back then, so a nice breeze through the wall at the wall outlets and the light switches. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

[member=74278]Packard[/member] My house, which was my paternal grandmother's, was built in 1929. Back then insulation was used for electrical wires  [eek] not in walls at all. (If you're cold, throw another log on the fire  [big grin])
So, I know exactly what you mean by air flowing at switches and receptacles on every exterior wall.
Granny lived with it for over 70 years, but I didn't. The first winter of living here, with $300+ gas bills was the motivation for the big remodel that followed. Good insulation, new windows and a more efficient furnace have dropped it dramatically. (Less than $100 in all but the very worst months)