Ash Trestle Desk

[Rutabagared]

Template for shaping the top.  This took a while to cut with the SO based on thickness of the template and cut length.  It’s easy to get small amounts of “washboarding” using the ¼ spiral cutter if you cut too fast, bobble, etc.  Easy to sand out of MDF though.
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Rough cut the shape with the jigsaw.

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[Rutabagared]

Used the Whiteside 1478 bit that I fitted with a lock collar and ¾” diameter bearing for template routing.  With this set-up, the top shoulder portion of the bit cuts into the template slightly.  But there’s still plenty of surface for the bearing (the reason for ¾” vs. my typical ½” MDF).
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Top profile.

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[Rutabagared]

I wasn’t planning to add the profile to the back edge (against a wall).  But I followed the template climb cutting around the corner and for some reason I was in the mindset of flush trimming . . . so an unplanned chamfer.

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Changed on the fly and added profile to the back edge.

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[Rutabagared]

Both sides are sanded through 120g.  There is about 1 – 1 ½ hours of sanding the profiles and finish sanding top/bottom surfaces that I’ll save for another time.

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[Rutabagared]

Layout of templates on the actual parts for joinery prep - domino mortises in the uprights, feet, cleats.  A single row or 10mm dominos.  The depths near the profile edges are shallower than the standard 25mm length to accommodate the shapes..  [attachimg=1]
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Having multiple squares is a bit of a luxury (have a Starrett 12” combo too and another double), but it sure makes marking more enjoyable and more efficient.  Several of these PEC are blems. I have imperial blades for each too (also some blems).  Prices are very reasonable.

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Love the Shinwa saddle square (especially for the price).

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Forgot to reset the fence height.  Miscut mortises plugged, smoothed and recut all within two hours - (none of this "don't stress joints for 24 hours" stuff on the glue bottle in these parts).

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[Rutabagared]

Cutting half laps for cleats. There are four top cleats that intersect with half laps.

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My process for sneaking up on joinery when crosscutting on the table saw.  I place an oversized shim (0.020” in this case) against a hard stop, then cut cut/re-cut with thinner or thicker shims until I’m satisfied (or compromise )

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This cut fits just outside the range where I can use a T-slot stop block with my x-cut sled fence, so I add an offcut with double-sided tape to the base.

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[bobtskutter]

Forgot to reset the fence height.  Miscut mortises plugged, smoothed and recut all within two hours - (none of this "don't stress joints for 24 hours" stuff on the glue bottle in these parts).

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I've become quite good at repairing miss placed domino mortices (rushing too much).  I notice you made the original mortices on the wide setting, is there a risk the "patches" might not hold as well?

Regards
Bob

 

[Rutabagared]

Yes.  A bit of a stumbling block with my Domino use.  It's so fast and easy you can get lockied into "efficiency" mode and forget to change the basic settings.  In this case, I simply forgot to change the fence height setting.

My home-brewed wide setting is to plunge 1-2 mm on both sides of my mark.  Not sure if strenth of the plugs will be compromised much.  These seem locked in tight.  Ususally the only time plugs seem weak is when they are very thin.

 

[Rutabagared]

Beginning to shape the feet and upper cleats.

But first I cut the elongated screw holes using the Domino for attaching upper cleats to top. I’ve always intended to use Domino for this but finally did something about it.
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For the slot portion that houses the screw head, I used a 10mm bit on the wide settings.  Plunge depth set at 28mm, ensuring adequate recess after shaping.  The area to viewer’s right will be removed when shaping.
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I carry the layout lines to the opposite side and use the 5mm, plunging at an adequate depth to penetrate the 10mm slot.  Looking down at the 10mm slot (with a  5mm slot on the opposite side).
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5mm slot cut from the opposite side, using the same width settings as the 10mm slot (the differences in bit diameters automatically create shoulders at the end of the slot).
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[Rutabagared]

Shoulder cut layout.  The shaped areas of the feet/cleats will be recessed in thickness by about an 1/8” or so.
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Should cut layout (a simple straight line extending from the back of the curve).
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Shoulder cuts using a Freud 24 tooth rip blade (flat top grind).
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Shoulder cuts and  a series of “guide” cuts (to aid in final shaping and smoothing of the recessed faces) completed.
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[Rutabagared]

Feet curves cut.
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Upper cleat curves cut.
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[Rutabagared]

Time to see how the screw slot process panned out.  Top:  upper cleat with screw slot.  Below: offcut with 10mm slot.
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Better view of the screw slot.  The cleat still needs to be template routed obviously.  But I must say that I’m pleased with how this turned out.  I’ve struggled with this in the past, using oversized drill bits, specialized screw slot bits, which worked well but were time consuming and messy.  This couldn’t have been easier, taking advantage of all the convenience and neatness of using the Domino.
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A #8 pocket hole screw fits neatly in the slot with room to spare for both the head and shank.  You could likely fit a #10 screw as well.  Also, a 4mm slot would work as well for the shank portion of the slot.
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[Crazyraceguy]

Very nice, can't wait to see the final product.