Attaching an OF 1400 router to a Kreg router table?

Wax

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
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Hello all. This is my first post on here, so please be nice to me [smile]

I am fairly new to Festool, but its a love-affair thats going to last, me thinks.

I have just purchased an OF 1400 EQ router, but it only seems to have two screw holes in the base that i can see to screw into the Kreg router table i have just had delivered. I realise i have to drill holes to connect the router to the table insert, but i don't feel that two little screws is going to be enough support. I noticed that the Festool router table set-up has some clamps that hold the router in place, but alas this was not within my budget.

Do i have to buy some kind of adapter base? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Wax
 
Welcome to the FOG!

I'm not aware of any type of adapter. I'd try removing the phenolic base and using its screw holes. The two mounting holes in the base of the 1400 are M5 (I believe). Or you could try the two M5s and make some sort of clips of your own.
 
Consider the Veritas router table.

05J2001S4.jpg


05J2001V1.jpg

The router is attached by the clamps so you don't have to drill holes or remove the plastic base etc. Sounds interesting but I don't have experience with it.
 
maybe a few of those Kreg clamps and a few bits of their track might work?
 
Thanks for posting, I remember see this thing somewhere but I forgot all about it. Could be the solution but at nearly $200 USD is gonna cost ya.
 
Wax - If you have to spend some money to mount a router in the Kreg table, my advice would be to spend the money on a router that will live in the table, and keep your OF1400 for hand-held use.  I bet you would soon grow tired of removing the OF1400 from the table every time you have a need for hand-held use.
 
I have a Dewalt 1/4 inch router. Would that me 'man' enough for a router table?
 
I really like Dave's advice. Not know which model router you have I couldn't say with and certainty but your DeWalt isn't likely to be an ideal router for table work. I prefer a 2 1/4 hp or larger router for a table.
 
I could always ebay the dewalt 1/4 inch and buy another 1/2" router. Are there any that you can adjust, height wise, from the top of the router table, with some form of screw?
 
Wax said:
I could always ebay the dewalt 1/4 inch and buy another 1/2" router. Are there any that you can adjust, height wise, from the top of the router table, with some form of screw?

If you want to avoid adding a lift, something like this model would work, Porter Cable Router,  or you could add a Router Raizer to almost any plunge router.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Thanks for posting, I remember see this thing somewhere but I forgot all about it. Could be the solution but at nearly $200 USD is gonna cost ya.

The price includes this little bit, (as well as the clamps)

"Each Veritas? router table top is a 16" x 24" steel plate that has been hand tuned to have a slight upward curve. This curve is specifically set so that the weight of the router cannot deform the router table to concave. Whatever the weight of your router, the Veritas router table top will always be slightly convex, with the highest point adjacent to the bit, so your depth of cut will always be exactly as set. Because the plate is steel, it will not sag over time, as many laminate tables will. "
 
I use the Triton on the Veritas table and it is an excellent combination. I leave the Triton under there and raise/lower it from above the table as noted. If I can answer any specific questions, I'd be glad to help. But for me this combo has worked very well.
 
Wax - You mentioned you have purchased a Kreg router table.  Which one?  Are you committed to the Kreg table, or can you return it and make another choice?  I would make the table and router decision together, if that option is still available to you.

There are lots of good choices for a router and table combo, but a 1/4" router is not among them.  As a general guideline, I would suggest a minimum of 2 or more HP with both a 1/4" and a 1/2" collet for a table router.  A through-the-top height adjustment option will save you the significant cost of a lift.  The Freud FT3000VCE is a candidate, and would likely work with your Kreg table.

I would keep the 1/4" router you have if you can for light hand-held work, like edge trimming.

Many people, including me, evolve through multiple generations of router table and router combinations.  The router table in my home shop is now the second most expensive tool I own, next to a cabinet-style table saw.  Personally, I like the Woodpecker router table products and accessories.  A great shop project is building your own router table, at least a cabinet and top.

There are about a bazillion threads on this subject in general woodworking forums such as Sawmill Creek.  Give us a few of your own guidelines, and I'm sure folks here can help with your decision.  The amount of money you are willing to spend will weigh heavily in the solution.
 
I just sold a load of sound recording equipment that was gathering dust and blew the lot of Festool gear. Oh the price of being a tool junkie! I am slowly coming to the conclusion that a need another router to stay permanatly under the table. From the advice given so far, the Titan seems great. Are there any other options, at that kind of budget?
 
Wax said:
From the advice given so far, the Titan seems great.

Before you rush out and buy a Titan router from Screwfix in the UK...

p3564175_x.jpg


...the router the members here are talking about comes from Triton and will either be the large TRA001, TRB001 or TRC001 machine  (often referred to in the USA as the 3 1/4 HP model)...

41RZ8CIsgVL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


...or the smaller MOF001 model (often referred to in the USA as the 2 1/4 HP model):

41BUCnkRciL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


Both Triton routers are well-regarded for fitting in a router table.

For good illustrated reviews of the larger Triton router, see...
http://www.raygirling.com/triton.htm
http://nhwoodworker.com/triton/index.html
http://nhwoodworker.com/triton/update.html

...and for the smaller MOF001, see:
http://www.raygirling.com/triton14.htm
http://nhwoodworker.com/triton2/index.html

Forrest

 
That was a 'typo' as the Americans say.  The Triton is an ugly brute though, but sounds ideal for my needs.  [tongue] Thanks for all your help chaps. Nice work.
 
By the way the new TRC-001 (3.25hp) model now has the above table winder.  I havent seen it yet and apparently they cant keep them on the shelves.  The next manufacturing run is due here in April so that's the soonest I'll get my hands on one.  I'm hoping they improved the handle winder to that of the MOF001 too.
 
bill-e said:
By the way the new TRC-001 (3.25hp) model now has the above table winder.  I havent seen it yet and apparently they cant keep them on the shelves.  The next manufacturing run is due here in April so that's the soonest I'll get my hands on one.  I'm hoping they improved the handle winder to that of the MOF001 too.

Bill, isn't this what you reviewed years ago?

Triton TRC-001
3.25hp Plunge Router
a review by
Bill Esposito
17 Jan 2004

Or, do they make changes and keep the model designation and just call it new?
 
Michael,

There is an updated version which was recently (last few months) released and is difficult to come by right now.

The one totally new is the above table winder (crank).

I've recently established contact with the HTC US distributors as things have changed since their buy out.

As for the part number. I think they call the US version TRC though the original one I reviewed was TRA....I always assumed that the "A" was for Australian and that the early models just had cut and paste Australian manuals and hence the part number confusion.
 
I am a bit confused now: Is it only the TRC model that has the winder handle for adjustments above the router table, or do the others too. Also does anyone in the UK stock them, and more importantly in the Midlands area? Any clarification would be great. I don't want a third router thats not upto the job in hand too!
 
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