Attaching long shelves

Thompmd

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2020
Messages
300
How would you join 3 8’pc of live edge to be hung on the wall supported by brackets. Is their an easy way?

I have a df500, track saw etc to cut the edges I just wasn’t sure if I put dominos in if they would work to sit on shelf brackets.

Can you buy long straps? Never attempted anything of this length. The shelf will be 1.75”x12”x 24’
 
Dominos will definitely keep the ends even with each other, even if they don't happen to line up with one of your brackets. The issue may be in assembling them. Is this run of shelves "trapped" or open on at least one end? That will make it easier.
 
Trapped as in the wall to wall measurement is 25’ 1” and they want the shelf at 25’

Can I assemble the 3pcs(w/domino) then 3 of us set the long piece onto the brackets?
 
To get that in place without having it flex at the joints I would put / attach / clamp some "carriers"  underneath. Such as 20' long 2" x 4", ripped plywood or similar on edge. Then your three people can place it onto the brackets  or on stands (stacked Systainers ? ) in front of the brackets. Then slide it off onto the brackets.

Seth
 
I like Seth idea, but I'd put it on the top.

Rip 8 foot long pieces of ply slightly narrower than the shelf. Take a 16 or 20 foot 2x4 on edge and screw the ply to the edge. Arrange the ply so you put the joints in the shelf in the middle of your 8 foot ply piece. Put this assembly on the top of the shelf, clamp it down, making sure to miss where the brackets are.

The advantage is that you can get the assembly up on the brackets supported by the strongback.

Ron
 
SRSemenza said:
To get that in place without having it flex at the joints I would put / attach / clamp some "carriers"  underneath. Such as 20' long 2" x 4", ripped plywood or similar on edge. Then your three people can place it onto the brackets  or on stands (stacked Systainers ? ) in front of the brackets. Then slide it off onto the brackets.

Seth

Great Idea, I had t got that far into the planning yet but that helps
 
rvieceli said:
I like Seth idea, but I'd put it on the top.

Rip 8 foot long pieces of ply slightly narrower than the shelf. Take a 16 or 20 foot 2x4 on edge and screw the ply to the edge. Arrange the ply so you put the joints in the shelf in the middle of your 8 foot ply piece. Put this assembly on the top of the shelf, clamp it down, making sure to miss where the brackets are.

The advantage is that you can get the assembly up on the brackets supported by the strongback.

Ron

Good Point, they came a couple days ago to buy the Walnut and when I went to deliver they ended up asking if I would finish. I’m not real confident in my work , I’m “ok” but not what I consider a “craftsman/artist” I simply don’t have the patience.
 
No rules that say you have to finish them. Find a local cabinet shop that can spray them. Ask what they need it sanded to. Drop off - pick up - install. Pass through the cost plus some for your time.

Ron
 
rvieceli said:
I like Seth idea, but I'd put it on the top.

Rip 8 foot long pieces of ply slightly narrower than the shelf. Take a 16 or 20 foot 2x4 on edge and screw the ply to the edge. Arrange the ply so you put the joints in the shelf in the middle of your 8 foot ply piece. Put this assembly on the top of the shelf, clamp it down, making sure to miss where the brackets are.

The advantage is that you can get the assembly up on the brackets supported by the strongback.

Ron

Yup, that is a good improvement. Clamping it on the top.  [thumbs up]

Seth
 
Paint Walnut, thems fightin words

I’ve had good luck w Arm R Seal, I’ve used Odies and like it but it tends to yellow the sap more than ARS.
 
Michael Kellough said:
[member=72021]Thompmd[/member]    finishing walnut? Surely that won’t require paint  [scared]

So if it’s to be a clear finish you can’t go wrong with Minwax wipe-on poly. Pretty much fool-proof.

I second that suggestion. Use two coats on the underside to seal, but 3 - 5 on the topside for wear resistance. They say “full cure” in 48 hours, but that is not my experience. 200 hours (7 days) is much more likely. But oil based poly seems to continue to get harder for years.  The 25 year old piece I made is almost impossible to scratch and is much harder than the 1 year old shelves I made.

I always wait 7 days before putting horizontal surfaces into service.
 
Since it's live edge, you're not going to get perfect alignment anyway.  Why not finish each board, deliver in 3 pieces, and use countertop bolts to clamp it together on-site?
 
tsmi243 said:
Since it's live edge, you're not going to get perfect alignment anyway.  Why not finish each board, deliver in 3 pieces, and use countertop bolts to clamp it together on-site?

That only works if the shelf is low enough to not see the fasteners.

Since you have an entire inch to work with here, I would install this in pieces. Place on end on the brackets all the way against that side's corner wall. Add the second piece, aligning with the Dominos. Bring in the third piece, tilting it down into place, inserting the Dominos. Then push the entire unit to the middle, centering it up. This gives you the opportunity to close the joints with some shims. If you then screw the shelves to the brackets, they should stay together, yet are still removable without dynamite. You can glue this as you go (or the customer) want, but I wouldn't, for the above reason. ^^^
 
Crazyraceguy said:
tsmi243 said:
Since it's live edge, you're not going to get perfect alignment anyway.  Why not finish each board, deliver in 3 pieces, and use countertop bolts to clamp it together on-site?

That only works if the shelf is low enough to not see the fasteners.

Since you have an entire inch to work with here, I would install this in pieces. Place on end on the brackets all the way against that side's corner wall. Add the second piece, aligning with the Dominos. Bring in the third piece, tilting it down into place, inserting the Dominos. Then push the entire unit to the middle, centering it up. This gives you the opportunity to close the joints with some shims. If you then screw the shelves to the brackets, they should stay together, yet are still removable without dynamite. You can glue this as you go (or the customer) want, but I wouldn't, for the above reason. ^^^

I don’t remember the exact height from the floor but it’s a little over 7’ so you would only see the bottom(you can technically see the top from the open upstairs balcony across the from the later bedroom but it’s probably 20’ so you won’t see any detail especially when the shelf is decorated)

I actually thought of that but I wasn’t sure I could pry together. They have a large horse barn I can finish on-site but I need to be certain we can even get a 25’ piece in. I obviously have more details to work out.
 
Back
Top