Attaching paint-grade baseboard with silicone?

jmbfestool said:
I just made a picture just in case I didn't make sense what I said above because I am a bit thick at spelling and gramma and explaining lol.

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Deansocial I agree its  thats why I dont use it and many other types of adhesive I used which is similar but softer dont know the names its just what the companys supply I just use it and realise it RUBBISH. The thing is using a gun and tube is very slow to apply thats why I rather use foam its good at gap filling I always go along the bottom of the board because plaster boards are normally about 1 or 2 inch from the ground.  If you was to use adhesive you would use 10 tubes on one length of skirting to fill.

We had had these silly tests  where this company blocks the front door leaving a hole and put a large fan on and suck the air out of the house. Now the house I did all the skirting on NON of the carpet came up because air gets drawn from under the skirting board from behind the plasterboards and comes up under the carpet and the carpet hovers.   The house done with just adhesive the carpet and Lino was floating because this means draft comes from under the skirting so not only does foam is good gap filler and sticks well and is quick it also insulates the house a little bit more.

JMB

that silly test is an air tightness test, the boards should be 10mm from floor and filled with acoustic sealant and skirtings sealed to floor. I work mainly on comercially where we have to do this so no gaps to fill with foam. The adhesive we use is about ?7 a tube so not cheap crap
 
Yeah I know. Thing is  if you have a fire place it lets air in if you have extra vans you let air in and if you have a large fire place you have to have a vent to let air in all these get blocked off while its tested so to me it isnt a fair test. Soon as they leave all these get unblocked again and ofcrose it isnt a air tight house. I know you do need a little bit of air flowing through the house.

Thats seems alot of work added to the job lol
 
have you ever seen an air tightness guideline? silicone around ends of joists, sealing windows on the inside and sealing cavity closers to blockwork. Its just silly, yeah i think it is a great idea building air tight if you have a heat recovery ventilation system but in a normal build it leaves stale air as most vents are hit n miss so get left closed
 
Same as JMB.  This generally doesn't come up much for me but when it dose I put sticks out to a apposing wall, if there is one, to brace it on till the PL dries.  I use blocks on the floor as well if there is no wall.  Same with the alternate toe nailing to catch the drywall.  I also use this on crown when it's running the same direction as the strapping which the framer has left out the second row of.  PL and 4b nails toed in opposite directions. 6b if its base/skirting.  Beware of wires. [scared]
 
I hit a pipe last week! SUCKS!  I shot the nail then thought umm what are these marking on the floor they look like pipes. Removed my skirting and oh yes the pipes went up the wall aswell as under the floor which is why the floor was marked!!!  Very thin pipe right in the middle of the pipe.  Good job the water hadn't been turned on yet.

JMB
 
Nice [scared].  I'm glad the water was not on, hat would have been a soggy surprise.  I have not hit a pipe yet but when the day comes I feel it will be bad.  The job I'm currently on has photos of all the framing  taped to all the walls.  Hundreds of photos!  Its wonderful.  We where installing a partial elliptical soffit  and neaded to see what was behind the plaster.  While one of the site managers was looking on his computer a girl came by from the printers with two boxes of pictures.  Timing could not be better.  The cieling was filled with steel. wires, pipes, it was a mine field.  I think it took me almost 2 hours to find the strapping on a 10 foot section of ceiling. 
 
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