Auxiliary Fence on Domino Support Bracket

[4nthony]

In a recent video I watched, I spotted this fence on the Domino support bracket, which I haven't seen before. Is it a known trick? I've yet to cut dominos into a miter joint but it seems like it could be useful in preventing any upward movement of the cutter.

Fast-forward to 3:35
Source

** Just realized that I probably should've posted this in the Jig forum  [embarassed]

 

[guybo]

Hi, mine came with one,people also like this from tso

 

[squall_line]

I don't think Anthony was talking about the black plastic foot, which is indeed standard issue, but the wooden stop that it was screwed to.  The piece of wood helps keep the DF500 from climbing off of or rocking back off of the end of the wood when cutting the mortise.

 

[Birdhunter]

My Domino came with this attachment as well. The BigFoot attachment is a great accessory. It's basically a bigger and improved version of the Festool attachment.

The wooden stop is a great idea.

I recommend practicing on scrap before trying to cut mortises on an angle. It can be tricky getting a nice joint. It's also easy to blow through the show side of the joint. I build a lot of jewelry boxes and prefer cutting splines on my SawStop. Perfect joints every time.

 

[4nthony]

I don't think Anthony was talking about the black plastic foot, which is indeed standard issue, but the wooden stop that it was screwed to.  The piece of wood helps keep the DF500 from climbing off of or rocking back off of the end of the wood when cutting the mortise.

Yep. It's a cool idea I'll definitely have to try when joining miters. Nice that the TSO already has threaded holes for attaching jigs.

 

[ChuckS]

If it's a one-time thing, it's ok to add an aux. fence like that. But the plastic support bracket will quickly get chewed up by the screws if it's done every time a miter joint is cut.

I never have had the machine moved on me when milling miters. My hand holding the front handle is more downward than forward, which will also prevent the machine from sliding sideway. In addition. when milling miters, avoid placing the work on a high level if possible.

Always plunge the machine slowly -- it'll bring better results whether milling miters or not.

If it is really really really necessary to prevent the machine from climbing up the bevel, I'd rather clamp a straight batten in front of the machine.

 

[guybo]

sorry i was born blind [big grin] [big grin] much better jig for miters

 

[Crazyraceguy]

It's not about slippage or even support. It is a reference point. This way the mating parts are referenced from the outside of the miter. The normal angled fence will only allow you the reference the inside of the miter.
Lamello goes about this from the other direction. They have a 90 degree fence (that clips to the main one) with a small 45 degree clearance space. This allows the point of the miter to be trapped by it, so it is referencing the long point of the miter too.

 

[4nthony]

sorry i was born blind [big grin] [big grin] much better jig for miters

That's a cool idea, too. And it bolts through the existing holes in the face plate. Thanks for sharing  [cool]

 

[ChuckS]

sorry i was born blind [big grin] [big grin] much better jig for miters

His approach, shared in some thread on this Forum before, is far better, without damaging the support bracket.

 

[ChuckS]

I made a miter jig based on Boris' idea. From a milling perspective, it was the same as the standard, jig-less approach (middle mortise), and both produced accurate mortise results. Whether the jig approach (two outside mortises) is better in terms of aligning the miter edges, I'll find out next time when I have a miter joinery to do. In the past, I've been happy with the miters done with the DF500 standard method.