Back shelf holes using LR32

[kieran989]

Hi guys,

I'm looking at getting the LR32 system and have done a fair bit of reading on the forums etc. One thing though that I cant seem to figure out is what is the best way to line up the rear shelf holes such that they are a multiple of 32mm from the front shelf holes (ie unbalanced panel)??

As far as I can see the festool parallel side fences are not long enough to allow referencing off of one edge.

How are you guys working around this??

 

[JeromeM]

Hi guys,

I'm looking at getting the LR32 system and have done a fair bit of reading on the forums etc. One thing though that I cant seem to figure out is what is the best way to line up the rear shelf holes such that they are a multiple of 32mm from the front shelf holes (ie unbalanced panel)??

As far as I can see the festool parallel side fences are not long enough to allow referencing off of one edge.

How are you guys working around this??

I don’t bother. What is the point?

If I did then I would measure and set to the measurements. You are missing the point that it’s vertical alignment that’s vital, horizontal alignment is from the back and front edges, 37mm front and more than that at the back to allow for a back panel 45mm or more.

 

[contendernut]

I’m just getting started with the LR32 system. On in balanced panel or even balanced, base distance off top of panel ever time. On my first panel, it was 639.5mm verses 640. That 1/2 mm put my holes off 1mm total. Then when shelf is put in, you are off 2mm because it adds from and rear. Shelf will rest on front left and rear right. The you have 2mm diiference on other two.

I did use the rapid clamps, which pull the panel. They are quick but one one side you pull to the top and when you spin the rail, you are pulling the opposite way. This compounds error.

Not to say the system is flawed, your panels need to be exact or at least base all dimensions off the same direction. Once all this gets worked out, it is a great and very quick system. I’m still trying to get doors with revels to line up. My doors are 4mm shorter than the cabinet to have upper and lower revels but my 35mm hinge holes didn’t line up.

 

[etds4u]

I use the TSO parallel guides with the LR32 to get perfect front to back hole spacing every time:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...o-square-parallel-guides/msg620727/#msg620727

 

[afish]

I used a spacer. I go over the process in this older thread

 

[kieran989]

[member=1518]Sometimewoodworker[/member]

From my understanding the point is to ensure the holes are spaced a multiple of 32mm apart horizontally to ensure compatibility with drawer slide pre drilled holes

[member=73094]afish[/member]

Excellent this is what I'm after!

 

[JeromeM]

[member=1518]Sometimewoodworker[/member]

From my understanding the point is to ensure the holes are spaced a multiple of 32mm apart horizontally to ensure compatibility with drawer slide pre drilled holes

[member=73094]afish[/member]

Excellent this is what I'm after!

All the draw slides I’ve seen and used have so many mounting points along with those that have adjustment options that there is no point in limiting your self to a multiple of 32mm, in fact in the cabinets I’ve just made the 32mm spacing would not have functioned.

I have a TSO guide so could use that, there are other guides that will do the same job.

YMMV

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=1518]Sometimewoodworker[/member]

From my understanding the point is to ensure the holes are spaced a multiple of 32mm apart horizontally to ensure compatibility with drawer slide pre drilled holes

[member=73094]afish[/member]

Excellent this is what I'm after!

 

The Accuride glides I seem to use most have their first hole at 37mm from the front of the cabinet followed by another 128mm later, then 96mm later, then 128mm later, etc.  I prefer to bore these holes using the LR 32 before assembly.  If you're doing just shelves, the increments are immaterial, assuming you don't use any half-depth shelves.  If you're doing shelves, be sure to not bore too far from front and back shelf edges to prevent tipping when the shelves are loaded.  All the glides I've ever used come with pretty clear instructions with the necessary hole spacing clearly stated.  YMMV...  [smile]

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I've created a little 3D printed square with offset dog hole which I use with my LR32 and MFT style table.  I should be able to make a video in the next day or two so you can see my method.

 

[JeromeM]

The Accuride glides I seem to use most have their first hole at 37mm from the front of the cabinet followed by another 128mm later, then 96mm later, then 128mm later, etc.  I prefer to bore these holes using the LR 32 before assembly.  If you're doing just shelves, the increments are immaterial, assuming you don't use any half-depth shelves.  If you're doing shelves, be sure to not bore too far from front and back shelf edges to prevent tipping when the shelves are loaded.  All the glides I've ever used come with pretty clear instructions with the necessary hole spacing clearly stated.  YMMV...  [smile]

MMDV, the common glides here have no instructions, and for a 500mm glide has 17 possible mounting points with 3 sized for 6mm euro screws. Certainly drilling mounting holes is good practice, though not essential.

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[Spandex]

[member=1518]Sometimewoodworker[/member]

From my understanding the point is to ensure the holes are spaced a multiple of 32mm apart horizontally to ensure compatibility with drawer slide pre drilled holes

[member=73094]afish[/member]

Excellent this is what I'm after!

I have to say, my first thought was "what's the point" too, because you said it was for shelves, not drawers.

Which is it for?

 

[JeromeM]

[member=1518]Sometimewoodworker[/member]

From my understanding the point is to ensure the holes are spaced a multiple of 32mm apart horizontally to ensure compatibility with drawer slide pre drilled holes

[member=73094]afish[/member]

Excellent this is what I'm after!

I have to say, my first thought was "what's the point" too, because you said it was for shelves, not drawers.

Which is it for?

Apart from the obsession with a multiple of 32mm spacing if you drill 37mm from the front then a draw slide hole distance near the back (that may well not be a 32mm multiple from the front holes then you are not restricted in future use and fitting draw/shelf slides is trivial.

In my current cabinets I have done exactly that so I don’t have to decide if it’s going to be draws, pull out shelves or regular shelves in the design stage.