Bathroom remodel - adding plumbing for soaking bath
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ryanjg117
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tjbnwi said:
Stunning, but also in a bathroom with 15 foot lofted ceilings by the look of it. I'm working with much less here, ha. Good to take inspiration from. I'll definitely look into the low-threshold or zero threshold shower options. That floor drain is pretty sweet.
Cheese
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xedos said:
Thanks...the space between the studs is quite narrow and the 3/4" Pex will not easily bend without kinking. I also really wanted to eliminate any side loading of the hot water fittings that may cause problems or possible leaks in the future. That's the reason for the Pex/copper combination.
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Did you start the bathroom remodel? Or make progress on the design?
I was in similar shoes at the beginning of this year. A leak in our master bathroom shower lead to a gut and remodel of our master bath and closet.
My dad is a contractor and has experience with tile and building Wedi showers. Both of us were also electricians.
The one 'new' thing was plumbing. I have to say that forums like Terry Love helped quite a bit. There are a lot of codes, gotchas and pitfalls with the plumbing so make sure you do a lot of research if DIY.
Also, keep in mind that tools for plumbing can add up. I spent $500 to buy PEX crimpers, torch for sweating, etc.
I had planned on paying a company to do the plumbing. Even after they quoted me $3200 for the rough in. I was moving the tub drain a foot or so, shower drain a foot, adding tub filler and another shower head/valve.
Due to the snowstorm we had this February I did the work myself. The company called the day before install to tell me I was getting pushed out 2+ weeks on the install because they were helping customers with emergencies...
Anyway, I would have gladly payed to have a pro install the plumbing. I was on a time crunch and couldn't wait so I did it myself.
Turned out okay, though a very stressful process.
On your drain questions - I would suggest NOT combining your toilet drain with your sink drain. I'd have to go research to be sure, but I'm pretty positive that's a big no no.
There are also codes about venting - IE stack has to be within 48"(guessing). You also have to account for the slope - something like 1/4" per foot for the drains.
Also - from a design perspective I'd put a nice sized vanity on the wall that faces the door, a nice walk in shower where the current shower is and move the toilet to where your vanity is now. Personally, I'd rather look through a door and see a nice vanity instead of the pooper. And your door can be a right hinge - inward swing. Hides the terdlet.
Assuming you can do a drain swap between the vanity and toilet - that shouldn't be a huge amount of plumbing changes.
In a guest bathroom, do you really need a soak tub? I'd add things like easier access to the shower, grab bars, etc. Things that make it more convenient to use and potentially add to ease of resale. Lots of people look for things like that, especially if it's a first floor bathroom.
I know I'm from Washington State, but my wife's friend from New York says I could have grown up there... lol
I can be blunt, I think is what she's saying.
I was in similar shoes at the beginning of this year. A leak in our master bathroom shower lead to a gut and remodel of our master bath and closet.
My dad is a contractor and has experience with tile and building Wedi showers. Both of us were also electricians.
The one 'new' thing was plumbing. I have to say that forums like Terry Love helped quite a bit. There are a lot of codes, gotchas and pitfalls with the plumbing so make sure you do a lot of research if DIY.
Also, keep in mind that tools for plumbing can add up. I spent $500 to buy PEX crimpers, torch for sweating, etc.
I had planned on paying a company to do the plumbing. Even after they quoted me $3200 for the rough in. I was moving the tub drain a foot or so, shower drain a foot, adding tub filler and another shower head/valve.
Due to the snowstorm we had this February I did the work myself. The company called the day before install to tell me I was getting pushed out 2+ weeks on the install because they were helping customers with emergencies...
Anyway, I would have gladly payed to have a pro install the plumbing. I was on a time crunch and couldn't wait so I did it myself.
Turned out okay, though a very stressful process.
On your drain questions - I would suggest NOT combining your toilet drain with your sink drain. I'd have to go research to be sure, but I'm pretty positive that's a big no no.
There are also codes about venting - IE stack has to be within 48"(guessing). You also have to account for the slope - something like 1/4" per foot for the drains.
Also - from a design perspective I'd put a nice sized vanity on the wall that faces the door, a nice walk in shower where the current shower is and move the toilet to where your vanity is now. Personally, I'd rather look through a door and see a nice vanity instead of the pooper. And your door can be a right hinge - inward swing. Hides the terdlet.
Assuming you can do a drain swap between the vanity and toilet - that shouldn't be a huge amount of plumbing changes.
In a guest bathroom, do you really need a soak tub? I'd add things like easier access to the shower, grab bars, etc. Things that make it more convenient to use and potentially add to ease of resale. Lots of people look for things like that, especially if it's a first floor bathroom.
I know I'm from Washington State, but my wife's friend from New York says I could have grown up there... lol
I can be blunt, I think is what she's saying.
ryanjg117
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jarbroen said:
Hide my throne? Never!
Sorry I've been quiet... I've been working on the design a bit more and have some new ideas to share:
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Thanks for all the great design ideas. In general, we're sticking with the idea of a walk-in shower (replacing the current tub/shower combo) and adding the soaking tub on the opposite wall. Adding the tub here because our long-term plan is to also renovate our master bathroom, removing the tub/shower combo in that bathroom with another full-size walk-in shower. So this will be the only tub in the house. Both bathrooms are only 4'11" wide which in my chubbie opinion isn't comfortable (length-wise) for a bath. That's why we're blowing out the wall... I want to have some elbow and headroom when I'm pondering the birth of the universe and what happened before the Big Bang.
I think my one concern with the design as I have it now: serviceability of the tub plumbing if anything bad happens. I'm envisioning the vanity being tight up against that tub, but that also blocks access through the front facade. Thinking about how I can make the vanity removable while retaining the nice quartz skirt off the right of the vanity. Any ideas?
I'm still totally confused on the permitting front. Since we're moving a wall (for the soaking bath, pushing out the wall about a foot into the walkway), I'm still not sure if I need a building permit even though I had a structural engineering company come out and verify none of the walls on this level of the home are load-bearing (and I have the letter). I know this will require plumbing and electrical permits, but not sure if I need to obtain those separately or if they are a "rider" to the building permit. Permitting offices are difficult to impossible to reach right now and not set up for DIY'ers. [member=65755]jarbroen[/member] - Interested in how you navigated this process since you're also in Washington state.
From an electrical standpoint, this bathroom contains the main GFCI outlet for all three bathrooms in the house. But, I want to move it to the location shown in the renderings (just left of the vanity). Also, I'm planning either to make my own recessed vanity with storage and an electrical outlet inside it, or purchase one off the shelf. Also adding an additional outlet off the GFCI to the left of the toilet for the eventual Toto washlet. I say "eventual" because it's a $1,000 toilet lid that's heated, auto-rises, and auto-cleans (both you and itself). Not really in my $10K budget for this reno, but maybe in the future. [tongue] [member=65755]jarbroen[/member] - What will I need to show for the electrical permit? And can I move that GFCI to the opposite wall without having to have a junction box with a blank plate in the old spot?
From a plumbing standpoint, the current combo tub/shower becomes a dedicated shower; the toilet moves to the right about 6-12 inches, the sink is moving to the back wall, and the soaking tub is the big net-new. I can sweat my own copper and would prefer to keep it copper behind the walls, but I know the plumbing permit is going to require a plumbing design. [member=65755]jarbroen[/member] - Did you have to create your own design? How comprehensive was it?
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Cheese
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A couple of things...
As you mentioned, that Toto will need it's own electrical outlet and its own water. Check to see if it can use the existing cold water or if it needs a hot water tap.
All those clear glass shelves look great but once the humidity level rises, whatever dust is around will get stuck to the shelves. It becomes a non-stop cleaning situation. If you want that many shelves think about some natural stone which will help hide the dirt & dust. I installed two 18" glass shelves above the toilet (like your example) and that's more than enough. Orchids and Aloe Vera love the bathroom environment. [big grin]
I'd also recommend installing a hand shower at the same time as long as the shower wall will be opened up anyways. If you get the longer hose you can also use it to clean up and spray down the shower after use or to wash the dogs. We use ours all the time. The hand shower will come with its own mount so you can mount it where it's convenient.
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As you mentioned, that Toto will need it's own electrical outlet and its own water. Check to see if it can use the existing cold water or if it needs a hot water tap.
All those clear glass shelves look great but once the humidity level rises, whatever dust is around will get stuck to the shelves. It becomes a non-stop cleaning situation. If you want that many shelves think about some natural stone which will help hide the dirt & dust. I installed two 18" glass shelves above the toilet (like your example) and that's more than enough. Orchids and Aloe Vera love the bathroom environment. [big grin]
I'd also recommend installing a hand shower at the same time as long as the shower wall will be opened up anyways. If you get the longer hose you can also use it to clean up and spray down the shower after use or to wash the dogs. We use ours all the time. The hand shower will come with its own mount so you can mount it where it's convenient.
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I put that Toto bidet in my bathroom, best thing ever. Lol. I didn’t have an outlet so the $1000 seat ended up cost a lot more to have a electrician run a line. Get a reg Toto toilet they are worth the cost and the addition of the bidet is easier in the future.
ryanjg117
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[member=44099]Cheese[/member], yep, handshower is in the plans. I just couldn't find the 3D model for the "shower system" on Kohler's website. All the other fixtures shown (except toilet) are the actual fixtures we're thinking about going with (Kohler Forte line). Discovered eFaucets sells just about all these fixtures for about 60% of the "list price" stated on Kohler's website, plus free shipping and no tax.
The Toto Washlets use the existing water line you have for your toilet.
They make two versions of the Washlet. One the power and water lines run off the side, fits most toilets. The other version, the power and water lines drop down straight through a hole in the top of a Toto toilet for a much cleaner look. Toto toilet and Washlet should be purchased together if going that route. Or buy the Toto with hole in top and add Washlet later if you don’t the hole.
I think the idea is to have a design that you don’t see the toilet from outside the bathroom if the door is open.
BTW Toto has a flat fee to repair out of warranty Washlets. It’s $175, which includes free shipping both ways. They send you out a box and packing materials. My S350e seat raising mechanism broke from a guest misusing it. Sent it back and they fix seat, plus installed new control board, filter and wand as part of service. Also replaced my remote since a couple buttons quit working. Very good experience with them.
Amazon does have some decent deals occasionally on the 500/550 Washlets. Also check there Warehouse deals.
They make two versions of the Washlet. One the power and water lines run off the side, fits most toilets. The other version, the power and water lines drop down straight through a hole in the top of a Toto toilet for a much cleaner look. Toto toilet and Washlet should be purchased together if going that route. Or buy the Toto with hole in top and add Washlet later if you don’t the hole.
I think the idea is to have a design that you don’t see the toilet from outside the bathroom if the door is open.
BTW Toto has a flat fee to repair out of warranty Washlets. It’s $175, which includes free shipping both ways. They send you out a box and packing materials. My S350e seat raising mechanism broke from a guest misusing it. Sent it back and they fix seat, plus installed new control board, filter and wand as part of service. Also replaced my remote since a couple buttons quit working. Very good experience with them.
Amazon does have some decent deals occasionally on the 500/550 Washlets. Also check there Warehouse deals.
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