Bead board panels, crown, & base without a miter saw.
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iamnothim
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[quote author=Tim R.]
It could, the right hardware will be the key.
I would just put some push to open doors on the built in closet organizers.
[/quote]
Indeed. Perhaps the hinges that have one "L" flap that mates with the other. Not sure if that's a good application and it will come down to the weight...... Which leads to ......
What material would you suggest if I choose to make them?
[quote author=Tim R.]
Sorry, I don't understand your question.
Tim
[/quote]
I'd make a two panel door. I'd need the panels to be recessed 1/2" into the stile/rail frame to accommodate the panel molding that I used on the walls.
What would be a good material to use to make the stiles and rails? My stick and cope set is only for cabinet doors so the joinery will be dominos. Some thoughts..
Use 3/4" MDF, build two sets of stiles/rails, rabbet one, insert the insert, and laminate to a 1 1/2" door ?
Same thing using poplar?
Buy 6/4 poplar? $$
Something else?
It could, the right hardware will be the key.
I would just put some push to open doors on the built in closet organizers.
[/quote]
Indeed. Perhaps the hinges that have one "L" flap that mates with the other. Not sure if that's a good application and it will come down to the weight...... Which leads to ......
What material would you suggest if I choose to make them?
[quote author=Tim R.]
Sorry, I don't understand your question.
Tim
[/quote]
I'd make a two panel door. I'd need the panels to be recessed 1/2" into the stile/rail frame to accommodate the panel molding that I used on the walls.
What would be a good material to use to make the stiles and rails? My stick and cope set is only for cabinet doors so the joinery will be dominos. Some thoughts..
Use 3/4" MDF, build two sets of stiles/rails, rabbet one, insert the insert, and laminate to a 1 1/2" door ?
Same thing using poplar?
Buy 6/4 poplar? $$
Something else?
iamnothim
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I'm not too much of a quick thinker these days. [huh]
I'll build the doors exactly like the wall.
Stiles and rails out of 1 x 4 and 1 x 5 poplar.... or cut them from 3/4" MDF . Pre-assemble the inserts the same way. Just back the whole assembly onto 1/2" or 3/4" MDF rectangles. That would give me a 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" solid door.
I'll build the doors exactly like the wall.
Stiles and rails out of 1 x 4 and 1 x 5 poplar.... or cut them from 3/4" MDF . Pre-assemble the inserts the same way. Just back the whole assembly onto 1/2" or 3/4" MDF rectangles. That would give me a 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" solid door.
I wouldn't rule out a nice bifold door. I went to the windows and doors desk at Home Depot and picked out one I liked and had them build it to fit my opening exactly with the same reveal on all sides. Then I took my of2000 with the edge guide and routed out a big slot for the top track and recessed the track up into the framing.
I'm real happy with it and you could do something like Tim said in getting a plain slab and adding your moulding to it to make it match.
Edit: seems I installed my door sideways could someone turn it for me [blink]
I'm real happy with it and you could do something like Tim said in getting a plain slab and adding your moulding to it to make it match.
Edit: seems I installed my door sideways could someone turn it for me [blink]
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iamnothim
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rizzoa13 said:
Thanks for the tip. Your doors look great and I've flipped back to bifold because I will use glass knobs and I don't want them to hit each other. They are the same glass knobs and pulls I'm using on the furniture I refinished for the room.
Since the panel moldings are a 1/2" recessed and "Z" shaped I have to make the doors to use the moldings. My wife likes mirrored doors, so I'll have the mirrors cut to the insert size. Might have the mirror beveled, I have to see at the glass store.
Here's a place that has heavy duty bifold hardware.
[attachimg=1]
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iamnothim
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My daughter arrives Tues night from college and her room is almost done.
I finished the floor today.
The baseboards are only set in place because I have to scribe and plane them.
The closet doors (not shown) are completed and waiting on the mirrors. I have to mortise in 3" hinges as the ones that came with the bi-fold set were not strong enough. I completed one side.
EDIT: I just looked. My first post was Oct 7th. I don't think I should o this as a profession.
[attachimg=1]
I finished the floor today.
The baseboards are only set in place because I have to scribe and plane them.
The closet doors (not shown) are completed and waiting on the mirrors. I have to mortise in 3" hinges as the ones that came with the bi-fold set were not strong enough. I completed one side.
EDIT: I just looked. My first post was Oct 7th. I don't think I should o this as a profession.
[attachimg=1]
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iamnothim
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Gosh, thanks!
As always there are worts. Keeping crisp joints and paint lines between the stiles/rails and the panel trim, etc. I’ll spare the closeup shots but it's something that bugs only me. I’m gaining experience for the next project.
My biggest concern is doors. Two projects and two warped/torqued doors. This time one of the closet door panels. I made them from 4/4 x 4” poplar and primed them with Zinsser schlac based primer. The joints are pocket screws with Titebond III. All the trim is poplar and I noticed that a couple pieces turned into hockey sticks after I sprayed them. That didn’t matter. The long stiles do matter.
I’ve decided not to refinish the large dresser. It’s too big and everyone likes the roominess. Instead I’m going to make under bed pullouts. Natural wood. Maybe white quarter sawn oak to compliment the floors. I’ve been looking for an excuse to buy an HL850. I’d get a rustic blade and see what it will look like on the oak drawer fronts. Any thoughts?
My next project is the hall linen cabinets. I’ve pretty much had it with making doors. I’m thinking that I will have the door made this time. I’m going to go with curly/figured maple and a light finish that will pop the grain. I’ll make a dark countertop, possibly rosewood. Does anyone have a good shop that makes cabinet doors? Please let me know.
A couple products I really love. General Finishes milk paint and the water based Pre-Cat urethane. They produce a very nice painted furniture quality look and the urethane is very durable. Scuffs was right off.
The other product is the Berry Alloc “plastic” floor. I like high quality real wood floors, but this project/application did not have that in the budget. My friend is a nationwide flooring distributor. Over the years he’s supplied several sets of carpet for the whole house. The current stuff upstairs is Karastan wool. So he shows me the Berry Alloc product. $4 a sq foot with the roll of sound barrier. Self install. It’s and actual picture of the wood laminated into the planks. There are six different planks and within a plank style the pattern shifts so it’s very random. My only wish was to have varying plank lengths. Anyway, when I looked at the small sample swatches it was very hard to get convince myself to ignore the plastic tabs. My wife couldn’t get past that. For the price, I took a leap of faith and I am very very pleased. So is my wife. I’d still go with a real product in a living room / dining room situation. But for an upstairs hall bath and bedroom it’s great. Bulletproof. Yes bathrooms. The stuff is indestructible and has a lifetime warranty. Again, very hard for a wood guy to take the leap.
[attachimg=1]
As always there are worts. Keeping crisp joints and paint lines between the stiles/rails and the panel trim, etc. I’ll spare the closeup shots but it's something that bugs only me. I’m gaining experience for the next project.
My biggest concern is doors. Two projects and two warped/torqued doors. This time one of the closet door panels. I made them from 4/4 x 4” poplar and primed them with Zinsser schlac based primer. The joints are pocket screws with Titebond III. All the trim is poplar and I noticed that a couple pieces turned into hockey sticks after I sprayed them. That didn’t matter. The long stiles do matter.
I’ve decided not to refinish the large dresser. It’s too big and everyone likes the roominess. Instead I’m going to make under bed pullouts. Natural wood. Maybe white quarter sawn oak to compliment the floors. I’ve been looking for an excuse to buy an HL850. I’d get a rustic blade and see what it will look like on the oak drawer fronts. Any thoughts?
My next project is the hall linen cabinets. I’ve pretty much had it with making doors. I’m thinking that I will have the door made this time. I’m going to go with curly/figured maple and a light finish that will pop the grain. I’ll make a dark countertop, possibly rosewood. Does anyone have a good shop that makes cabinet doors? Please let me know.
A couple products I really love. General Finishes milk paint and the water based Pre-Cat urethane. They produce a very nice painted furniture quality look and the urethane is very durable. Scuffs was right off.
The other product is the Berry Alloc “plastic” floor. I like high quality real wood floors, but this project/application did not have that in the budget. My friend is a nationwide flooring distributor. Over the years he’s supplied several sets of carpet for the whole house. The current stuff upstairs is Karastan wool. So he shows me the Berry Alloc product. $4 a sq foot with the roll of sound barrier. Self install. It’s and actual picture of the wood laminated into the planks. There are six different planks and within a plank style the pattern shifts so it’s very random. My only wish was to have varying plank lengths. Anyway, when I looked at the small sample swatches it was very hard to get convince myself to ignore the plastic tabs. My wife couldn’t get past that. For the price, I took a leap of faith and I am very very pleased. So is my wife. I’d still go with a real product in a living room / dining room situation. But for an upstairs hall bath and bedroom it’s great. Bulletproof. Yes bathrooms. The stuff is indestructible and has a lifetime warranty. Again, very hard for a wood guy to take the leap.
[attachimg=1]
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