Beginner questions before getting OF1400

[vinay]

Hello,

I'm a new hobbyist and want to get my first router.
Since I have TS-55 with rails and Festool DC, the OF-1400 immediately came up as an option. Also considering Bosch GMF1600CE (US version MCR23).
I've read probably everything on the web comparing the two and couldn't see a clear winner.

What I did notice mentioned a few times that the OF1400 is not very good for edge routing due to high center of gravity, small base and pistol like handling. A few wrote it is a cause for wobbling. And for that the Bosch is better due to lower CG and different type of handles.

Is that indeed the case?

Also, the main advantage I understand of the OF1400 for me is that I have the rail system and can use it with the rails. However, I've seen posts on connecting the Bosch to the Festool rail using a simple home made jig (two rods + a piece of plywood) - is that stable enough jig?

Assuming price is not an issue (for some strange reasons, the two would cost me the same) would you get the OF1400 or the the Bosch?

Thanks

 

[Gregor]

Assuming price is not an issue (for some strange reasons, the two would cost me the same) would you get the OF1400 or the the Bosch?

There is your answer.

When you can get an OF 1400 for the price of the Bosch: get it.
And in case you don't like it you simply sell it (for way more than what you originally paid for it) and get something else.

Apart from that:
Wobbling on edge routing isn't really an issue, in case you feel insecure you can attach the #493233 table or use the #492601 rail connector as an outrigger to give it more stability. For edgeband flush trim (for holding the router base against the edge face) there's the WA-OF and UP-OF to give perfect precision and stability.

 

[peter halle]

Of all the routers I’ve had I like the 1400 best.  We don’t see the router used often on the rails here at the FOG, but the concept of making a centerline and then using that for alignment is great in my opinion.

If I have concerns about stability I use these below along with the rods that come it’s the router to create an outrigger that stabilizes the router better.  These are the same pieces you would have to purchase to use the 1400 on the guiderail.

[attachimg=1]

Peter

 

[GoingMyWay]

We don’t see the router used often on the rails here at the FOG, but the concept of making a centerline and then using that for alignment is great in my opinion.

I wonder why the router isn't used on the rails that often here.  I was just about to purchase those guides to route some dadoes with the guide rail and an OF1400.

 

[nvalinski]

I don't have the Bosch, but have heard it held in very high regards. I do have a fixed/plunge combo Porter Cable that has a similar style body to be able to compare it to the OF 1010 and 1400 that I also own. Couple of thoughts:

Edge routing - I agree that a fixed base is preferable for edge routing, but not because of stability. I actually prefer the pistol grip even in edge routing conditions as it allows the hand on the knob to provide the downward force to keep it level and the pistol to push forward (once plunged, the knob keeps a very nice low center of gravity). Two opposing handles on the Porter Cable fixed base makes me a little bit tippier, to be honest. Where the fixed base does have an advantage is setting the depth more accurately, as it's admittedly a pain to adjust the plunge to the exact depth of cut for a nice perfect roundover that matches the top (or whatever profile you are cutting).

Guide rail connection - The Festool guide rail connector is nice and smooth, but keep in mind Bosch also makes one if you want to buy their rails as well. I find that routing with the rail using the Festool routers is a little tippy because you rely on just a support foot for keeping it at the same level as the track instead of the full baseplate like the Bosch. If you go the homemade route, copy the Bosch design on this one, though a purchased base may provide better accuracy with the rail adjustment than a homemade jig. If you end up with the Festool, you will still get good results, it just takes a little extra care.

Dust collection - The Bosch looks capable of receiving dust collection components, but you will need an extra third party base plate from Oneida to get the same effect as the cup that Festool provides for edge routing and likely need to buy Bosch accessories to make the rest happen. If dust collection matters and the two are the same price, just keep in mind you may have extra expenses on the Bosch to bring it up to the same standard.

Handle design - I've grown to much prefer the pistol grip handle as it provides control on one handle for pushing down in a plunge/forward in motion, and another to provide stability in the opposite direction. The symmetric fixed handles are okay, but never felt like it provided the same control, particularly in plunging scenarios. Also note that all of the power/speed controls are at your fingertips on the Festool. See if you can get your hands on both, since this is more of a personal preference.

Plunge depth stop - I love the way you set the depth on the Festool routers, but the turret is a major weak point. The Bosch appears to have a much better design so that you can't accidentally twist the turrent a little bit and end up plunging into the spaces between the depth positions. Happens more often than I'd like on the Festool.

Summary - I like the Festool pistol grip, dust collection, depth adjustment, and control. The Bosch has a better base plate for track guiding, turret depth stop, and a fixed base for accurately setting edge profiling. Don't think you'll go wrong with either, just points to compare.

 

[JFelchlin]

The way Peter H describes using the OF 1400 for dados and rabbets is the only way I do them. The precision doing them this way is exact!
I’ve never had any problems with stability with this Festool router.
Bosch makes some great tools - But this one’s a “no brainer”.
I highly recommend that you buy the OF 1400.

 

[semenza]

We don’t see the router used often on the rails here at the FOG, but the concept of making a centerline and then using that for alignment is great in my opinion.

I wonder why the router isn't used on the rails that often here.  I was just about to purchase those guides to route some dadoes with the guide rail and an OF1400.

Could be any number of reasons. Maybe it just isn't that interesting to post about. I have used it on the rail for dadoes. Bearing rabbeting bit  for my rabbets though. I think one reason the dado use might not show up on FOG a lot is due to the Domino .......... less need for dadoes in the overall FOG / Festool community.

Seth

 

[RobWoodCutter]

When I use the 1010, 1400 or 2200 with the rail for cutting dados,  I use two rails in parallel to support the both sides of the router. That way you don't have to support the overhanging weight of the router, the second rails supports it. You then just focus on holding the router guide on the channel and pushing the router along.

The rails are set up mirror image so the router base runs on the rails at the same location and height fully supporting the weight of the router.

Rob

 

[vinay]

Thanks for all the helpful replies

When I use the 1010, 1400 or 2200 with the rail for cutting dados,  I use two rails in parallel to support the both sides of the router. That way you don't have to support the overhanging weight of the router, the second rails supports it. You then just focus on holding the router guide on the channel and pushing the router along.

The rails are set up mirror image so the router base runs on the rails at the same location and height fully supporting the weight of the router.

That's interesting  - so in such case the router is supported by the rails and is "in the air" rather than supported by the wood?

 

[peter halle]

Thanks for all the helpful replies

When I use the 1010, 1400 or 2200 with the rail for cutting dados,  I use two rails in parallel to support the both sides of the router. That way you don't have to support the overhanging weight of the router, the second rails supports it. You then just focus on holding the router guide on the channel and pushing the router along.

The rails are set up mirror image so the router base runs on the rails at the same location and height fully supporting the weight of the router.

That's interesting  - so in such case the router is supported by the rails and is "in the air" rather than supported by the wood?

There is a drop down foot that is usually used to support the end of the base that doesn't ride on the rail.  The use of a second rail is interesting!

Peter

 

[nvalinski]

Thanks for all the helpful replies

When I use the 1010, 1400 or 2200 with the rail for cutting dados,  I use two rails in parallel to support the both sides of the router. That way you don't have to support the overhanging weight of the router, the second rails supports it. You then just focus on holding the router guide on the channel and pushing the router along.

The rails are set up mirror image so the router base runs on the rails at the same location and height fully supporting the weight of the router.

That's interesting  - so in such case the router is supported by the rails and is "in the air" rather than supported by the wood?

That's the reason I pointed out that I think Bosch has the edge in that regard... their track guide doesn't rely on a small foot holding it up, rather a whole plate. Seems like a missed opportunity to do something similar on the OF1400, especially if they redesigned the base like the OF2200 (which also has a nice track guide).

 

[semenza]

Festool has  THIS  base for the 2200. It has a half extra layer to take in to account the guide rail thickness. Probably would be easy to make for the 1400.

Seth

 

[ben_r_]

Thanks for all the helpful replies

When I use the 1010, 1400 or 2200 with the rail for cutting dados,  I use two rails in parallel to support the both sides of the router. That way you don't have to support the overhanging weight of the router, the second rails supports it. You then just focus on holding the router guide on the channel and pushing the router along.

The rails are set up mirror image so the router base runs on the rails at the same location and height fully supporting the weight of the router.

That's interesting  - so in such case the router is supported by the rails and is "in the air" rather than supported by the wood?

That's the reason I pointed out that I think Bosch has the edge in that regard... their track guide doesn't rely on a small foot holding it up, rather a whole plate. Seems like a missed opportunity to do something similar on the OF1400, especially if they redesigned the base like the OF2200 (which also has a nice track guide).

That Bosch setup is really nice! I get by with my Festool routers with the Micro Fence interface setup.

 

[RobWoodCutter]

Thanks for all the helpful replies

When I use the 1010, 1400 or 2200 with the rail for cutting dados,  I use two rails in parallel to support the both sides of the router. That way you don't have to support the overhanging weight of the router, the second rails supports it. You then just focus on holding the router guide on the channel and pushing the router along.

The rails are set up mirror image so the router base runs on the rails at the same location and height fully supporting the weight of the router.

That's interesting  - so in such case the router is supported by the rails and is "in the air" rather than supported by the wood?

The drop down foot will sometimes catch. By centering it on two parallel rails it runs smoothly on the two rails, smooth as silk.

 

[vinay]

Festool has  THIS  base for the 2200. It has a half extra layer to take in to account the guide rail thickness. Probably would be easy to make for the 1400.

Seth

Festool has this one for the 1400 which I believe solves the thickness issue
https://www.festool.co.uk/accessory/493233---las-of-1400

 

[semenza]

Festool has  THIS  base for the 2200. It has a half extra layer to take in to account the guide rail thickness. Probably would be easy to make for the 1400.

Seth

Festool has this one for the 1400 which I believe solves the thickness issue
https://www.festool.co.uk/accessory/493233---las-of-1400

That one is just a wider base for more stability. The base needs to be stepped. Short side on rail, tall side on work piece.

Seth

 

[Naildrivingman]

Thanks for all the helpful replies

When I use the 1010, 1400 or 2200 with the rail for cutting dados,  I use two rails in parallel to support the both sides of the router. That way you don't have to support the overhanging weight of the router, the second rails supports it. You then just focus on holding the router guide on the channel and pushing the router along.

The rails are set up mirror image so the router base runs on the rails at the same location and height fully supporting the weight of the router.

That's interesting  - so in such case the router is supported by the rails and is "in the air" rather than supported by the wood?

The drop down foot will sometimes catch. By centering it on two parallel rails it runs smoothly on the two rails, smooth as silk.

This is interesting. 

Do you use two sets of rail blocks or one. If one, then the second rail is simply a “shim”, correct?

If you you two sets of rail blocks, how do you accurately set the second rail to parallel?  Do you use the router with rods and rail brackets installed so you can accurately index the second rail off the first, or do you simply measure between the rails?  My brain is telling me to do the first method, because even a fraction of a difference could cause a bind.

I don’t dado much at all. When I do, I usually use the old school dado stack...yep, I’m a dinosaur.

 

[Naildrivingman]

Festool has  THIS  base for the 2200. It has a half extra layer to take in to account the guide rail thickness. Probably would be easy to make for the 1400.

Seth

Festool has this one for the 1400 which I believe solves the thickness issue
https://www.festool.co.uk/accessory/493233---las-of-1400

That one is just a wider base for more stability. The base needs to be stepped. Short side on rail, tall side on work piece.

Seth

Can’t the zero clearance base be used to rest completely on the work (providing that the bit in use will fit)?

I did not know about the stepped base for the 2200.  I wonder why FT does not have one for the 1400?

 

[Cheese]

I wonder why the router isn't used on the rails that often here.  I was just about to purchase those guides to route some dadoes with the guide rail and an OF1400.

Here's a thread on using a 1010/1400 on a rail for shower niches. It's especially easy & fast when using straight lines marked on your substrate of choice.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...kerdi-board-shower-niche/msg546296/#msg546296

A quick shot of a 1010 setup for use on a Festool rail with Micro Fence components, routing straight 45º chamfers.

[attachimg=1]

 

[RobWoodCutter]

The primary rail is clamped to wood and is what is used with the guide. The second rail is free floating.