Best Japanese Flush Cut Saw For Cutting Plugs

jmarkflesher

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What is the best saw for cutting off plugs. I just received a Kugihikia by Shinwa. It seems way to thin for me. It was about $36.00 delivered but I am not opposed to paying more for a more comfortable saw in my hand. I am only going to use this saw for plugs. Suggestions needed. Paul Marcel had recommended one but I cannot find it in a search or on his blog. Thanks, MARK  Should have been in hand tools but I don't know haw to move. sorry
 
I've a Stanley double sided one that is quite good especially in tighter spaces where you haven't got room to move position. I also have a Veritas one that I used for years. To be honest I think the best way is to cut them down to just above the surface using any saw and then pare the remainder down with a sharp chisel.
 
I certainly no expert on Japanese saws. As they are designed to cut on the pull stroke which puts the blade in tension keeping it taught and straight. So they don't need to be as thick as a western saw blade which is designed to cut on the push stroke. Don't let the blades lack of thickness put you off
 
I have a similar saw and mainly use it for cutting plugs off also. It works great, but you need to be careful as you still can mar the surface around the plug with the teeth of the saw. The other thing I've done is just cut them off close to the surface and take a couple of light passes with a block plane.
 
I bought a Veritas and love it!  Here's a video from Lee Valley. Thin but perfect for its purpose.



Cheers,

Frank
 
grbmds said:
I have a similar saw and mainly use it for cutting plugs off also. It works great, but you need to be careful as you still can mar the surface around the plug with the teeth of the saw. The other thing I've done is just cut them off close to the surface and take a couple of light passes with a block plane.

I find masking tape helps keep the blade just above the surface
 
A proper Japanese flush cut saw is very thin (even for a Japanese pull saw) and flexible.  More importantly, it has no set to the teeth to help prevent marring to the surface.  If your saw teeth have set, it's not a flush cut saw.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s. I have six Japanese pull saws of different type.  I love them. 
 
I use a cheap Stanley and I slip a business card under the saw as I cut. I like to pare things flush with a shallow gouge afterwards.
 
The Veritas saw has been very good to me.  I like the double sided one.  Most do have a bit of set, but to one side only.  That's why they have a "this side up" mark. 

But if it's not around chisels are quick too, as long as you cut with the grain so the plug surface doesn't dive below the work piece.

Pare and sand them while the glue is wet if you can and it will fill any tiny imperfections if you have them. 
 
I have tried many flush cutting saws and I now use a true Japanese Flush Cutting saw available at Lee Valley. It is the best saw, in my opinion. Don't go for a cheap knock off. Buy the original and you will be very happy. A little expensive, but worth it. Make sure you follow the intruction on how to use. Cut only on pulling and not pushing.
Cheers,
JC
 
JC, Do you mean the Kugihiki 17 tpi 60T06.21 or another? Does anyone use the Veritas Cabinetmakers Triming Plane 05P74.01?MARK
 
Afraid mine's an English Footprint, with a set on one side only. Sharp and accurate.
Biggest problem I had was holding it ALL down to the workpiece surface as I had a tendency to let the very flexible blade guide me into a hand-high curve. Once the tendency is reigned in, awesome.
 
Shark saw, yeah.  I've used one for years also.  Available everywhere, and you can replace the blade.

Ask yourself the question, are you building stuff or collecting tools so your kids can have a big estate sale.

My money supply is not endless, and I would rather put it into wood and not tools.
 

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