Best way to cut corian?

AlexThePalex

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Nov 12, 2008
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Hi guys, I need to cut corian to size and make a few holes in it to mount a toilet. I have not worked with this material before so to avoid any mistakes I'd like to fall back on your expertise.

Unfortunately I am a bit limited in my tools at the moment as I am 750 km from home to redecorate an apartment in Germany, high up in the mountains near the Swiss border.

What I have with me is the TS55, the router, jigsaw, and drill with hole saws.

What would be the best way to do this? Is this sturdy material, or easy to mess up?

BTW, my view now:

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Anything Tungsten will do the trick. To make sure you get nice edges I would cut oversized and clean up with a router (as far as stuff is in sight). To glue Corian onto anything use acrylic, preferably in the same colour.

If you can, use the special saw blade FS sells. Its geometry is better for the intended use.
 
Glue with acrylic, what's that for glue?

I do have the special blade, thought that one might be best.
 
I use the blade Festool sells for solid surfaces.

As noted above a slight over size cut and router clean up is good practice. You can cut to size if the edge detil will remove any defects.

If you're doing a build up use the recommened adhesive. You'll need the proper gun for the adhesive.

The stuff gets slick as snot, use spring clamps and back up blocks. Hot glue the blocks on, denatured alcohol disolves the hot glue for removal.

With build up, always over cut and router trim back.

I use drywall shim to make the templates.

Hole drilling, I prefer a sharp toothed hole saw over an abrasive hole saw. Do not use an auger or paddle bit.

Tom
 

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Alex said:
Glue with acrylic, what's that for glue?

I do have the special blade, thought that one might be best.

If you need to build up the edge to make the top appear thicker than the sheet material. Pretty common practice.

Scuff sand where you need to glue, wash clean with denatured alcohol.

The gun and adhiesive tube is visible in this picture.

Tom
 

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Thank you for answers. I work for an interior decorator and he slipped this in at the last moment when I was already loading the van and didn't have time to research this and properly prepare.

I have the standard blade and the special laminate blade with me, so I'll cut it oversize and then trim with the router.

I do not have any special glue with me like the 2 part glue you show. I only have standard construction glue with me, called 4tecx High Tack and considered as an excellent general purpose glue for a wide range of materials. Would that suffice or do you really need special glue?
 
I do a fair bit of Corian fabrication and I would strongly advise you to only use the 2 pack adhesive as mentioned by the other posters.

I have heard of people using CA glue with success on very small pieces, but if you are glueing edges to create what appear to be thicker panels, you will need the proper adhesive.
Also, to ensure the manufacturers warranty would be valid, you have to use the correct adhesive.....Sorry Alex....!
 
You have to use the proper adhesive. There is nothing that sticks well to solid surface material.

Any chance your there long enough to order the product and gun to assemble later in the week?

Make sure you order the proper color, otherwise you may have a visible seam line along the edge.

Nice looking area you'll be working in by the way.

Tom
 
Be especially careful protecting your lungs from the dust.
Cutting synthetic “stone” composites produces about four times as much silica dust as cutting granite.
 
Thank you all for your answers, I will track down the proper glue, my designer is in contact with his supplier to have it send out to me. I won't be needing it until next week.

I do not need to polish it, designer wants the matte look, apparently that's totally the thing now over here.

And I'll wear my respirator when cutting it.  [smile]
 
Michael Kellough said:
Be especially careful protecting your lungs from the dust.
Cutting synthetic “stone” composites produces about four times as much silica dust as cutting granite.

Hi Michael,

Can you post a link that goes into more detail regarding this please....?

It would be much appreciated.

Tim.
 
Alex said:
I do not need to polish it, designer wants the matte look, apparently that's totally the thing now over here.

Alex, what grit paper will you use for the matte finish?
 
Alex said:
Glue with acrylic, what's that for glue?

I do have the special blade, thought that one might be best.

To 'glue' Corian and such onto different substrates (for instance plywood) my go-to furniture guy uses "Simson Professional BSR 50-10 Acryl Universeel (wit)", and so do I : ) . Dots or beads, not full area's.
 
Cheese said:
Alex said:
I do not need to polish it, designer wants the matte look, apparently that's totally the thing now over here.

Alex, what grit paper will you use for the matte finish?

Usually Scotch Brite is used. The finer the higher the gloss.
 
Check with the supplier for the recommended adhesive to mount the top to the cabinet. I use Sil-A-Bond.

Also if the top of the cabinet is filled solid, cut a lot of it out. The wood expands and contracts differently than the solid surface.

Tom
 
Distinctive Interiors said:
Michael Kellough said:
Be especially careful protecting your lungs from the dust.
Cutting synthetic “stone” composites produces about four times as much silica dust as cutting granite.

Hi Michael,

Can you post a link that goes into more detail regarding this please....?

It would be much appreciated.

Tim.

Looks like I’m mistaken.
Striking out looking for what I thought I heard or read about it having four times as much silica.

Everything I see comparing synthetic stone to granite says it only has twice as much silica as granite.

“The countertops are made from processed quartz, a material containing silica levels as high as 90 percent, or twice the amount found in granite.”

This place says it’s up to 95% silica but they sell dust collection systems.
 
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