Best wood flooring for over conrete?

[wow]

If you read another of my posts you might know that I am laid up with a foot injury due to standing on concrete for too long. This happened in my shop or on the concrete apron in front of the overhead door. I can't do much about the concrete apron or the part of the shop where I work on vehicles, but the woodshop area I can fix.

I'm thinking that I want to put down wood flooring in the woodshop area, to provide some 'spring' and relief from the hardness of the concrete floor which, evidence would indicate, is a problem for me. What flooring would you recommend for a hard-working area over a concrete slab?

 

[Walk On Wood]

Wayne, im short on time, but google floating sports floors.  They typically consist of 1-2 layers of plywood, with the hardwood over that and rubber feet under that.. The entire system floats and has the "spring" you're looking floor. 

If you don't want the floors to be 2+ inches thick, a residential floating floor may work.  It's 1/2"-3/4" thick, and floats over cork or foam underlay to provide some cushioning.  Hope this helps, I'll check back her later when my wife isn't giving me the evil-eye.

Toby

 

[wow]

Wayne, im short on time, but google floating sports floors.  They typically consist of 1-2 layers of plywood, with the hardwood over that and rubber feet under that.. The entire system floats and has the "spring" you're looking floor. 

If you don't want the floors to be 2+ inches thick, a residential floating floor may work.  It's 1/2"-3/4" thick, and floats over cork or foam underlay to provide some cushioning.  Hope this helps, I'll check back her later when my wife isn't giving me the evil-eye.

Toby

Toby:

Thanks for taking the time to post, but you better not get yourself in trouble!

No, I don't think I can deal with the height or the expense of a sports floor.

This is slab-on-grade construction. I am in Minnesnowta, so the slab is insulated using a technique called a Frost Protected Shallow Footing. Nonetheless, the floor temp will likely swing from around 48 degrees at the coldest time of the year to maybe 63 degrees at the warmest. I am pretty sure of that low temp - because I've measure it with an infrared heat gun - but I'm guessing on the upper one.

I was thinking of one of the engineered wood floors that are designed to fasten together and float as you indicate. I know nothing of brands, construction methods, durability, suitability, etc.

I would welcome any experience and suggestions!

 

[wow]

I guess I should mention that I could also use the stick-down rubber flooring, such as racedeck or other brands. Would I be better off doing that than the wood considering my application?

 

[campbellcraft]

Four years ago I used the lowest cost floating floor (from a big box) I could find. It has held up well, looks good, light color aids light levels. My knees are shot but the shop floor has helped them a lot. Even non-wheeled tools slide easily. I do use rubber mats where I stand a lot (in front of MFT).

 

[amt]

What about floating cork floor?

 

[wow]

What about floating cork floor?

What about it?

[big grin]

I've always thought that cork wouldn't be very durable, but i don't really know anything about it. Do you have a link where I could go read and learn about it?

 

[Paul G]

WOW, will there be heavy equipment on this cushioned floor?

 

[wow]

WOW, will there be heavy equipment on this cushioned floor?

No. I might need to move a piece of equipment in or out, but for the most part - no.

Stock unloading and moving of sheet goods will take place in the main part of the shop, not in the woodshop portion. That's where the forklift and pallet jacks will run.

Initial stock breakdown will also occur outside of the woodshop area.

Anything that's too heavy (over maybe 50 pounds up to 200-300 pounds) or too numerous to conveniently carry in/out will go on a cart with large rubber casters - probably at least 4" in diameter.

Does that info help?

 

[semenza]

  I am betting that anti-fatigue mats will do more than a wood floor etc. Certainly easier to install and try out. I have one in my shop on a concrete floor. I have not done the whole shop (yet) but I can tell the difference when I have been standing on the mat  for more of the day than off the mat.

Seth

 

[Paul G]

Since no equipment is sitting on it I'm kinda thinking like Seth to try the mats, or possibly those interlocking rubber tiles.

 

[stvrowe]

I have been giving some thought over the years about using DriCore on my shop floor but haven't done anything about it yet.

 

[tjbnwi]

Racedeck.

http://www.racedeck.com

Tom

 

[rvieceli]

I'm concerned that you will go to a lot of trouble and expense and not get the results you are hoping for.

Here are some things that I have found helpful and beneficial for me. I'm over 60 and my feet, knees and hips tell me I'm not 20 any more.

the proper shoes made a big difference for me, even more comfort when combined with an appropriate orthotic. I have pretty good luck with some over the counter insoles and haven't gone custom yet.

I like the cushioned mats. There are several types and prices to choose from. the gel ones are nice but pricey. I have an old set of the interlocking foam ones that I ring around my worktable. They help a lot. they also have the advantage of being relocated to another station or moved for cleaning. You can often find the foam ones cheap at yard sales.

I sit down more. I have a couple of (I was going to say older, but let's be real and call them Vintage) office chairs from the 50's. One's a Steelcase and the other is a Knoll. No arms on either but comfy and nice to look at too. They both have casters and roll pretty well around the shop.

I find sanding sitting down much more enjoyable than standing. I just use a slightly lowered bench. If I need something from across the room, I have been known to just roll over and get it rather than get up.

For some reason, I find I use the router more sitting down as well. Works pretty good unless I need to move along a long length. It seems to give me more control without hunching my back over and putting stress on it.

 

[wow]

I have been giving some thought over the years about using DriCore on my shop floor but haven't done anything about it yet.

Steve:

My daughter was looking at this for her basement, but then we found this article:

http://www.cqs.com/homeqa/dricore.htm

Granted, he's only one customer - but the mold growth he experienced was enough to make us say 'No' for her application.

Still might be viable for my woodshop application, since I don't expect to have any 'real' issues with moisture there. Need to find out about cost...

 

[tjbnwi]

I've used Dri-Core for 14 years, not a single problem with it. That includes one job where the water heater leaked catastrophically. If it wasn't for the Dri-Core all of the flooring would have been destroyed.

Tom

 

[semenza]

I am pretty sure I have NoTrax brand, either Diamond Soft-Tred  or Duratrax. They are expensive but probably way less than a floor, and will likely do more for you.

Seth

 

[wow]

I'm concerned that you will go to a lot of trouble and expense and not get the results you are hoping for.

Me too! That's why I posted here - I'm CERTAIN that there are a lot of people who are smarter or have more experience than I.

Here are some things that I have found helpful and beneficial for me. I'm over 60 and my feet, knees and hips tell me I'm not 20 any more.

the proper shoes made a big difference for me, even more comfort when combined with an appropriate orthotic. I have pretty good luck with some over the counter insoles and haven't gone custom yet.

I have - for at least the past decade - paid significant attention to my foot wear. When I worked as an EMT I spent many hours on my feet on concrete floors, so I know exactly what you mean. The shoes I was wearing when this occurred are a good, all leather work shoe. They are less than one year old, and only get worn maybe 10-20 hours per week. In theory, at least, they should have been adequate.

I like the cushioned mats. There are several types and prices to choose from. the gel ones are nice but pricey. I have an old set of the interlocking foam ones that I ring around my worktable. They help a lot. they also have the advantage of being relocated to another station or moved for cleaning. You can often find the foam ones cheap at yard sales.

We have those in our kitchen, over the ceramic tile floors. They make a HUGE difference! I don't like the change in height from bare floor to mat, though, which is why I am exploring flooring ( nice rhyme! ) options.

I sit down more. I have a couple of (I was going to say older, but let's be real and call them Vintage) office chairs from the 50's. One's a Steelcase and the other is a Knoll. No arms on either but comfy and nice to look at too. They both have casters and roll pretty well around the shop.

I find sanding sitting down much more enjoyable than standing. I just use a slightly lowered bench. If I need something from across the room, I have been known to just roll over and get it rather than get up.

For some reason, I find I use the router more sitting down as well. Works pretty good unless I need to move along a long length. It seems to give me more control without hunching my back over and putting stress on it.

I can relate. Boy, can I relate!

Believe it or not, I *was* sitting down as often as possible while I did this. I believe - and the Dr. doesn't refute - that I just plain 'overloaded' my feet by the concentrated hours of standing and walking on the concrete.

I have a couple of chairs and a stool, all with casters on them, just as you do. And yes, I too have been known to 'scoot' around instead of standing up. Here I thought I was just being lazy, but now your post has me thinking that maybe I was just being smart?!

[wink]

 

[waho6o9]

How about super cow mats?
[attachimg=1]

 

[wow]

How about super cow mats?
[attachimg=1]

I believe the 'super cow mats' would be thicker than I'd like, but I have been looking at the regular livestock mats. They range in thickness from 1/4" to 3/4". I'd likely go 3/8" to 1/2" for my application.