Bevel cuts with the TS55

[BTDT]

I am looking at making a small built in corner cabinet... not owning/wanting a table saw, would the TS 55 adjusted for a bevel (and using a guide rail) provide a straight enough edge for joinery?

So far I have used the TS 55 for ripping sheet goods and door framing so I have limited experience with bevels.

Cheers!

Brad

 

[mouppe]

Yes, if your saw and guide rail are calibrated well enough, it will be as accurate as a table saw. It's all I have and I have found it more than sufficient. To bring it to a final dimension I use hand tools anyway.

Richard.

 

[danrush]

BDTD,

I use the 55 almost daily to cut pre-finished cabinet panels.  Many of these cuts are bevels.  I noted pre-finished because there is no room for error, I can't just sand out or touch up a goof, and the saw w/ guide perform flawlessly. 

It will be a good idea to practice a few cuts on the bevel on some scrap ply:  the saw's balance does shift alot when on the bevel, and if your not ready, it could mess up your work (not to mention give you an unexpected kick-back)

Dan

 

[jmbfestool]

Yes it can!

JMB

 

[ccarrolladams]

I am looking at making a small built in corner cabinet... not owning/wanting a table saw, would the TS 55 adjusted for a bevel (and using a guide rail) provide a straight enough edge for joinery?

So far I have used the TS 55 for ripping sheet goods and door framing so I have limited experience with bevels.

Cheers!

Brad

From January 2006 until this summer I did not have a shop with space for any saws except TS55 and TS75. My reputation building custom cabinets is based on practice with the TS55 on a lot of guide rails. The quality of the cut is better than glue ready.

When I committed to buying a building large enough for the big fixed machines I had in mind, each was compared for quality of cut to a TS55 with a sharp blade running on a guide rail. Once you are confident in your use of a TS55, at 0 or bevel, you will be thrilled with the results.

 

[Jonhilgen]

BDTD,

I use the 55 almost daily to cut pre-finished cabinet panels.  Many of these cuts are bevels.  I noted pre-finished because there is no room for error, I can't just sand out or touch up a goof, and the saw w/ guide perform flawlessly. 

It will be a good idea to practice a few cuts on the bevel on some scrap ply:  the saw's balance does shift alot when on the bevel, and if your not ready, it could mess up your work (not to mention give you an unexpected kick-back)

Dan

Like Dan I cut a lot of finished material with no room for error.  Here a pick of one do.e just recently without any touch-up done.

 

[Neill]

Brad,

Quick answer is "yes".

In fact I was making a planter with 15* sides.  Some of the pieces I cut with the Kapex and some with the TS55.  They mated perfectly.

I also made a 36" high square column for a trailing plant.  I cut 45* edges with the TS55.  The saw was a bit tipsy at that angle so I really had to hang on to it, but it did work fine.

Neill

 

[mwildt]

I find that when using the MFT3 table and then cutting 45 degrees on a small piece, even with a spare piece supporting the rail, that the accuracy can be off. The 45 degree just causes too much lean to the right that it becomes inaccurate.

 

[Sparktrician]

I am looking at making a small built in corner cabinet... not owning/wanting a table saw, would the TS 55 adjusted for a bevel (and using a guide rail) provide a straight enough edge for joinery?

So far I have used the TS 55 for ripping sheet goods and door framing so I have limited experience with bevels.

Cheers!

Brad

The TS55 tilted over to 45 degrees can still cut an amazingly sharp line.  The caveat here is that you MUST keep your left hand on the plate of the TS55 with a fair amount of pressure while the saw is cutting to keep it solidly on the track or it will become unbalanced and give you a sloppy cut from being wobbly.  Be sure that the green adjustment wheels on the plate are set to keep the saw snugly aligned with the guide track, too, to prevent yawing.  Test it on some scraps to become comfortable before going for the real thing.  And if you're cutting melamine-coated sheet goods, don't make the mistake of running your finger down the acute cut edge or you may find yourself suddenly oozing  [scared]  vital body fluids. 

[smile]

 

[mouppe]

I find that when using the MFT3 table and then cutting 45 degrees on a small piece, even with a spare piece supporting the rail, that the accuracy can be off. The 45 degree just causes too much lean to the right that it becomes inaccurate.

With respect, it is not the TS55 that is being inaccurate in this case, but the user who is not exerting sufficient pressure to keep the TS55 flat on the guide rail. For small pieces where clamping is an issue, it may be better to find an alternative method of cutting a bevel, such as a chop saw?

 

[mwildt]

I find that when using the MFT3 table and then cutting 45 degrees on a small piece, even with a spare piece supporting the rail, that the accuracy can be off. The 45 degree just causes too much lean to the right that it becomes inaccurate.

With respect, it is not the TS55 that is being inaccurate in this case, but the user who is not exerting sufficient pressure to keep the TS55 flat on the guide rail. For small pieces where clamping is an issue, it may be better to find an alternative method of cutting a bevel, such as a chop saw?

Sorry if I wasn't clear. The TS55 is cutting fine, but if you are not careful (mostly when using a MFT3) then the cut is inaccurate. Basically the whole rail can twist on you even if you're applying pressure all the right places and have full support underneath the whole length of the rail. With all the weight on the right side it can be tricky to keep everything aligned when the pieces you're cutting are small. That's all.

Yep, if you have a mitersaw then that would be preferred, unfortunately I do not (yet).

 

[mouppe]

Yes, I agree with that. 

 

[dazzer]

somewhere on this site someone made something to keep the plate of the sew in place without using your hands to hold it on the track

 

[Brice Burrell]

somewhere on this site someone made something to keep the plate of the sew in place without using your hands to hold it on the track

Yes, our man Craig did, here you go.

 

[dazzer]

someone sell me one

 

[Corwin]

somewhere on this site someone made something to keep the plate of the sew in place without using your hands to hold it on the track

Try using Festool's Parallel Edge Guide mounted with the end stop inverted.

 

[mouppe]

This thread's an oldie but a goldie...today I used my TS55 to make a pair of coopered doors. OMG talk about easy!

The doors are 30" wide together, and the curve is a very gentle one that extends only about 1" at the furthest point. Each of the 15" wide doors has 4 staves in it, and the angle is about 89 degrees...barely noticeable, but the TS55 made the job a breeze. Took me longer to set up the glue up!

I ran my jointer plane over each stave edge to create a spring joint before gluing. No splines, dominoes, brads etc. needed, the glue joint was a perfect joint with just a sliver of light visible in the middle.

Now I'll put out the rotex with the interface pad to smooth the inside face, and bob's your uncle...finished!

Gotta love the TS.