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- Jan 28, 2018
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- 337
The logic makes sense, and reassures me that I can be more flexible in the size I go with!
As an aside - Does anyone know if the placement of the first row of holes is important?
A Festool MFT has them placed 70mm edge to center for the first row. Then all other rows are 96mm. With the last also being 70mm.
sandy said:[member=67145]Dusty.Tools[/member]
As an aside - Does anyone know if the placement of the first row of holes is important?
A Festool MFT has them placed 70mm edge to center for the first row. Then all other rows are 96mm. With the last also being 70mm.
Your information is (slightly) incorrect, at least with respect to actual MFT/3 replacement tops. Actually, the overall size of an MFT/3 top is 718mm x 1102mm. There are 7 rows of holes, with 11 holes in each row. While you are correct that the holes are each 20mm and that they are 96mm center-to-center, the corner holes are actually centered at 71mm from each edge. The edges of the corner holes are then 61mm from each edge. Doing the math you wind up with 122mm + 20mm + 6x96mm = 718mm by 122mm + 20mm + 10x96mm = 1102mm.
As far as whether these dimensions are "important", the question is whether you are building your own table or whether you are replacing the top on an existing MFT/3. If the latter, then you might as well make the replacement top fit.
Sandy
Dusty.Tools said:[member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member] - what’s the clearance between your 1530 extrusion and the shelf? I’m guessing 3” to allow your arm to reach the underside of the top...
Ben
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Thank you! I’ve basically got the same thoughts running through my head.AtomicRyan said:Dusty.Tools said:[member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member] - what’s the clearance between your 1530 extrusion and the shelf? I’m guessing 3” to allow your arm to reach the underside of the top...
Ben
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I struggled with this for a couple of reasons:
1. I needed my table to be a specific height given the leveling casters so it would work as an outfeed table for my table saw.
2. I needed enough room in my sysport columns to hold a sys1, sys2, and sys3. (That's how I like to stack my systainers)
3. Obviously, I needed access to the bottom of the top for fixturing and cleaning.
4. I knew I was going to use a guide rail pivot and needed enough height there so that the guide rail wouldn't interfere with my drawers when the pivot was up.
In the end, I compromised with 2.75" of clearance. It's not enough. I can't really reach the center of the shelf with my hand... But, I think I have enough access for it to be ok.
08G8V8 said:Ryan, how easy are those casters to spin the height adjuster to lift the table to engage the caster? I see they make a version with a pop-out ratcheting handle to adjust height, but of course are quite a bit more expensive.
nicholam77 said:Hey AtomicRyan,
Your bench is turning out fantastic! Fellow Garage Journal-er here. Question for you on the RightAngleDesign guide rail pivot if you don't mind... how much of the tracksaw rail does the mount on the pivot side use up? Or maybe a better way to ask, what's this dimension?
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Hello! Those are ~8 3/8" long (~213mm)
Cheers,
Rob
Right Angle Design