Blade burn mark on off cut

[bevans]

I recently removed the blade from my TS 55 to clean off pitch build up. When I replaced the blade (60 tooth) and made a cut using the rail as I  always do on my mft/3  I had to push the blade through the material a little harder than normal. I also smelled the dreaded wood burn. When I looked at the off cut material (3/4 oak) I noticed the burn mark that started about 4" into cut off. The good piece (left of the rail) has no burn marks. Removing the blade is the only change made on the saw. What could be the issue? What can I do to correct the issue?

 

[#Tee]

how long have you been using it and what have you been cutting with it? most likely dull carbide, ive been thru the stock blade ....id cut everything from mdf,alum, carbon fiber sheets, ply,walnut, and oak. it took a nice beating and ive noticed the harder push as time went on and some burning on ply. tenryu has a nice replacement for it.

 

[bevans]

I've had the blade/saw for about 3 years and cut mostly oak and walnut with occasional ply. It is likely dull now but was a little concerned that I did not get burning before and only notice it on one side of the cut. I will get a new blade and see if it continues. Thanks for the reply.

 

[antss]

Who makes a 60t blade for the ts55 ?  That's a lot of teeth on a 160mm dia. blade.  [blink]

You were crossctting the oak , correct ?

 

[bevans]

Oops...I was wrong on the teeth count. It's only 48 and it is what came on the saw. I do mostly crosscut but also have done some ripping. The issue noticed now was with cross cutting a piece of oak.

 

[rst]

I use 56 tooth AGE aluminum/plastics blades for my 55, 75, and Kapex...but not for ripping oak. 
Toolstoday has a wide range of Amana and AGE track saw blades for both the 55 and 75.  I use Anana's Electroblu coated blades in my Makita 10 and 14" chopsaws and the edges cut so clean that I seldom have to file or sand.

 

[antss]

Ripping solid stock with a 160mm  - 48t blade is a non starter.  You should expect burning doing that.

On the crosscut so my bet is that your blade is just dull.  You could also have a slight toe in/out on your saw to track relationship.  Check your blade to bottom plate relationship to be sure it's at 90deg. while you're at it too. 

Amana makes some nice blades, but as I recall most or all of them are thicker than the Festool standard 2.2mm kerf. Which adds time and expense for the guide rails to the process of swapping blades. 

 

[Cheese]

I recently removed the blade from my TS 55 to clean off pitch build up. When I replaced the blade (60 tooth) and made a cut using the rail as I  always do on my mft/3  I had to push the blade through the material a little harder than normal.

That doesn't make much sense, you removed the blade from the saw because you wanted to clean the pitch buildup, and the saw was functioning properly before the cleaning operation.  Yet, after the pitch cleaning operation the saw was more difficult to use and required extra force.
I think it may be more an alignment problem of the saw and rail or the saw and blade.

 

[mwildt]

Did the speed control get touched by mistake ?
Did you put the blade on backwards, sorry had to ask

 

[Jimdude]

I think it may be more an alignment problem of the saw and rail or the saw and blade.

Yes, this. Especially because the burns start at 4" in, i.e. roughly when the axle passes the edge of the wood.

There might just be some alien material between the blade and the saw. Don't ask how I know this can happen easily.

 

[Birdhunter]

I sometimes get burning even on my big SawStop table saw if the wood has some degree of bowing or curling that would cause it to exert pressure against the blade.

This case sounds like a combination of a dull blade and some form of misalignment causing too much friction against the side of the blade.

 

[tjbnwi]

Remove the blade, check to see if something got on the mounting surfaces. Reinstall the blade making sure it's in the proper direction and properly seated. Make a test cut, hopefully the problem is gone.

Get another blade either way, send the original out to be sharpened.

Tom

 

[Job and Knock]

3 years? Mine average 3 months at times! (but that is trade work, so.....)

I aleays have a couple of spare blades to hand, though, and several times during the life of a blade I'll take it off the saw, treat it with pitch and resin remover then return it. The other thing is that some timbers (notably beech, maple and sycamore) seem much more prone to scorching in "thin" blades - blades which have been reground a few times and where the kerf has been reduced soimewhat by the grinding process.

 

[bevans]

Well, I replaced the blade with a new one and it cuts through oak and walnut like butter. There was no foreign matter between the blade and mounting surface when using the old blade. I never noticed burn marks before but maybe I just wasn't observant. Thanks for those of you that responded. I will send the old blade out for sharpening.

 

[Job and Knock]

When you start using it again don't forget to "bump" the anti-splinter strip acress

 

[Birdhunter]

"When you start using it again don't forget to "bump" the anti-splinter strip acress"

What does this mean?

 

[Job and Knock]

"When you start using it again don't forget to "bump" the anti-splinter strip acress"
What does this mean?

Festool blades (on the TS55) have a standard kerf of 2.2mm. When a blade is sharpened, that kerf reduces slightly which means that a gap between the side of the teeth and the anti-splinter strip will start to open-up. To avoid this when I have blades sharpened (generally a batch of 6 or 8 blades) I unpeel the anti-splinter strip very carefully and restick it about 1 to 2mm further across and reattach it before making a first trimming cut. I can get 3 to 5 uses out of my splinter strips that way, although it is sometimes necessary to reattach the anti-splinter strip with double-sided adhesive tape. sorry, Festool, but replacing he anti-splinter strips on all my rails every 3 months or so is just another on-cost that I can avoid, so I do