Blue Pine Garage Cabinets: Build

[butzla]

Common mistake.  My first time I only bought one.  Make sure you get two!

 

[iamnothim]

Common mistake.  My first time I only bought one.  Make sure you get two!

Thanks for the tip.  Looks like I didn't buy any.  I'll be sure to order a pair.

 

[iamnothim]

Finished trimming, sanding, and mounting all the drawer boxes.  Glad those are out of the way.  I sanded the finish off the pre-finished plywood because it was yellow and I'll use the same top coat everywhere.

Mounted the top drawer front using the Blum Adjusters.  Yes Jim, they are stupid awesome!  I also like the adjustability of the Blum Tandem slides front cam locks.  They adjust the box on the slides up and down and side to side.

I will cut back the right returns on the drawers considerably after all the fronts are mitered, contoured, and temporarily mounted using the Blum adjustment cams.

I am still considering sinking two dominos and glue to permanently secure the fronts to the boxes.

I will also trim the front face of the plywood box with maple strips.
Today I ordered some Mohawk filling and repair products.  I think they will work well for the knots and the miter gaps.

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[Mikeyfondu]

Great job Luke, it's looking really good!

 

[iamnothim]

Great job Luke, it's looking really good!

Thanks Mikey!

Lots and lots of details left....  (Big & Small)

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[iamnothim]

Return trim line

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[dutchie]

I have had a hard time with knobs/pulls.  Nothing looks right.
I also tried the magnetic spring latches.  The doors are too heavy and barely open.

Just discovered this thread. Really like the cabinets, looks great!

But concerning the magnetic push to open latches, did you know Blum has special hinges for push to open applications? These have a lighter spring or no spring, not entirely sure, but they open much lighter then the regular hinges...

 

[iamnothim]

I have had a hard time with knobs/pulls.  Nothing looks right.
I also tried the magnetic spring latches.  The doors are too heavy and barely open.

Just discovered this thread. Really like the cabinets, looks great!

But concerning the magnetic push to open latches, did you know Blum has special hinges for push to open applications? These have a lighter spring or no spring, not entirely sure, but they open much lighter then the regular hinges...

Thanks.

I take a look.  If these are "soft close"  they won't work with several doors because I'm hanging tools on 3 doors and they are heavy.

 

[iamnothim]

I cut the edge trim from a nice chunk of maple that was left over from the header.  It looked so nice that I'm decided to redo the door pulls from it using the sculpting disc.  Trying to match the drawer cabinet and tie everything together.

Below is the piece marked up.  I'll taper the entire length of the block with the front profile and a bit of the sides.  After contour sanding I'll slice off each knob using the band saw.  That disc is coming in handy.

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[iamnothim]

Smaller pieces are harder to contour and they leave a lot of challenging sanding.  Brutal.
I switched gears from the drawer fronts because I their aura wasn't strong enough.

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[iamnothim]

I finished tapering and sanding the "loaf".
Cut off 12 slices then dabbed some Deft on one.

I was going to round over the edges but now I'm leaning to crisp.
They turned out taller than the originals so I cut them narrower.

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[travisj]

Please don't take this the wrong way.  To me, the "crisp" pulls feel like an afterthought.  Almost like someone took an incredible amount of time to build beautiful cabinets and then ran out of time and made some quick pulls.  I know this isn't the case, but had I not known the build history, it would be my perception.  I think with the profile of the pull, the block sides don't fit.  I think something in between your rounded example and the crisp example would be my preference.  The lack of squareness would also tie the uppers to the bottom cabinets.  Especially with all of the work you have put into contouring the drawer faces.

I mean no disrespect.  It is your shop and your decision.  I can only admire longingly at the pictures you have graciously provided, you will be the one to use them everyday.  The flip side is if you go with crisp, you can always break the edges down the road if you so desired.

 

[bertv]

Tapering the sides would create a slimmer (and IMO more pleasing —) look. Maybe a concave taper, to make it harder to execute?

 

[iamnothim]

Please don't take this the wrong way.  To me, the "crisp" pulls feel like an afterthought.  Almost like someone took an incredible amount of time to build beautiful cabinets and then ran out of time and made some quick pulls.  I know this isn't the case, but had I not known the build history, it would be my perception.  I think with the profile of the pull, the block sides don't fit.  I think something in between your rounded example and the crisp example would be my preference.  The lack of squareness would also tie the uppers to the bottom cabinets.  Especially with all of the work you have put into contouring the drawer faces.

I mean no disrespect.  It is your shop and your decision.  I can only admire longingly at the pictures you have graciously provided, you will be the one to use them everyday.  The flip side is if you go with crisp, you can always break the edges down the road if you so desired.

Hey Travis,
No need to apologize, we're big boys and girls on this thread.  One important reason I post is to elicit comments and suggestions.  Your input is both appropriate and appreciated.  I was looking in that direction anyway for your reasons and others.  I just didn't know it I could pull it off......

Luke

Tapering the sides would create a slimmer (and IMO more pleasing —) look. Maybe a concave taper, to make it harder to execute?

Hi Bert,
I was going to test pinching the waist before you posted.  As you can see, it's quite pleasing, and more organic, but very time consuming.  I can only get close to symmetry.  Then there's repeatability which in the case of the pulls is important.  To Travis suggestion of "easing the edges" ....that's hard to pull off.  I think it's all or nothing.  I worked on the pull that was already contoured.  The others are slimmer.  I think slimmer will look better than the beta piece below.  I also tried carving.  If I had the skills, which I don't,  I would be fun to see what a twig shape would look like.

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[iamnothim]

p.s.
I though the crips sides might work because the cabinet header is crisp.

There is no doubt the taper looks more interesting and worth the time spent  (90 minutes and aching hands)....  Case in point.

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[iamnothim]

Perhaps a CNC service....  but that would require me to create a .dwx (?) file and thats pushing my Illustrator skills to the max.  Another reason to learn SketchUp if that can export to a machine readable file format.

Then there's finding a CNC outfit that will do a small job for an affordable price.

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[Clweed]

Luke,

You could "pinch the waist" with a spindle sander. you could clamp a stop around the spindle if you wanted it to be consistant.

 

[iamnothim]

Luke,

You could "pinch the waist" with a spindle sander. you could clamp a stop around the spindle if you wanted it to be consistant.

Lee

I used one but the cylinder I have can't cut the end grain. I'll see if I can find a new one.
Otherwise I'll do what I did with the loaf.  Screw it to a board I can clamp to the MFT and use the angle grinder.

Thanks
Luke

 

[bkharman]

Luke,

You could "pinch the waist" with a spindle sander. you could clamp a stop around the spindle if you wanted it to be consistant.

Lee

I used one but the cylinder I have can't cut the end grain. I'll see if I can find a new one.
Otherwise I'll do what I did with the loaf.  Screw it to a board I can clamp to the MFT and use the angle grinder.

Thanks
Luke

Why not use the bandsaw to cut the waist?  If it is a little too close to your fingers, I understand but you could screw a sacrificial piece to it just like sanding.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[iamnothim]

Brian

I'd need to get a 1/4" band.  Which would be good to have anyway.