Blue Pine Garage Cabinets: Build
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tiralie
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Jim Kirkpatrick said:
It depends. For stuff like luke is doing where creep is not an issue, PVA is fine otherwise for veneers I will use a powdered plastic resin glue, which is urea glue. I buy mine in powder form, as the pre-mixed like Unibond 800 doesn't last in the bottle for more than a year.
Tim
nickao
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iamnothim said:
I have used Titebond III in a vacuum press since at least 2009. It works. I have had ZERO call backs or failures using it. That's well over 150 heavy floor applications.
If care isn't taken Titebond III can introduce a bow or cup in the material in vacuum press work. After a Titebond III set up is taken out of the press there will still be a period of air drying, even after 3 days in a press. The material will have to be set up so air can get under it after coming out of the press for several hours to a full day. And there must be a way to ensure the set up stays flat during this time. For super thin flat veneer work(like panels) I just don't recommend Titebond III in a vacuum press unless the person has money ad time to practice with the materials. Other than that Titebond III is the miracle of adhesives. I have 5 gallon pails of the stuff.
I have since gone to West systems epoxy for 80% of my vac press work. After 8 hours in the press the set up stays stick flat. It comes out and the project is ready to go.
The DIY skateboard makers use Titebond III(TIII) in a vacuum press more than most anyone else I know. For a skateboard, though TIII has a long set up time in and out of the press, there is little better. The drawbacks for a flat thiin veneered set up and it's ability to move and be flexible is what makes Titebond III great for the bent plys in a skateboard application. But again its major complaint is excessive dry times in a vac press.
iamnothim
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OK. I was dying to know if I had a disaster on my hands so I took the assembly out of the bag. Thankfully, after 3 hours, it dried as I had hoped. The squeeze was quite hard and, based upon most stuff I've glued with TB III, it should be good to work with in another three hours.
As [member=7816]Tim Raleigh[/member] said, cure in 24.
For veneers I use Pro Glue powder. It works great for veneer but I didn't think it would work well for planks, at least over time.
[member=3220]Jim Kirkpatrick[/member] I built the Project V2 for about $200 plus a 4' x 9' vacuum bag ($250) from VeneerSupply (Joe Woodworker)
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As [member=7816]Tim Raleigh[/member] said, cure in 24.
For veneers I use Pro Glue powder. It works great for veneer but I didn't think it would work well for planks, at least over time.
[member=3220]Jim Kirkpatrick[/member] I built the Project V2 for about $200 plus a 4' x 9' vacuum bag ($250) from VeneerSupply (Joe Woodworker)
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nickao
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The wood you chose has some nice figure, got to love that. Very nice!
I use a bunch of the Joe stuff myself. I have been going through the mesh like crazy lately. With epoxy it's just not reusable. Any epoxy gets on it forget it.
I must say your glue up looks so pretty, mine are always a big mess.
I use a bunch of the Joe stuff myself. I have been going through the mesh like crazy lately. With epoxy it's just not reusable. Any epoxy gets on it forget it.
I must say your glue up looks so pretty, mine are always a big mess.
iamnothim
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Dovetail65 said:
Thanks....
As I showed in an earlier photo I was going to dye it to make the figure pop. However, after getting up-close and personal with it during hours of sanding I started thinking that it would blend with the blue pine better by just putting a top coat on it. It won't be as dramatic but it's looking nice just sanded.
Perhaps a lacquer first, then a spray a poly urethane over that for durability.
iamnothim
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I just finished sanding the contours at the gaps to minimize the differences in the contour.
Naturally when you remove material the contours will no longer match. As a fix I clamped adjoining pairs together and used the Rotex to blend one side into the other. Then I progressed through the grits. You can see the difference from the prior post to this one.
Now it’s on to a task that I have screwed up numerous times. Mitering the return. It always takes more material than you think it will and, as usual, I thought I would have a good size return. Not. Pretty small. I’m going to make the left side a cap only so I have a larger return on the right side, which is visible. Again, I will lose material in the process, which will require contouring the miter edge.
I have decided not to stain the fronts and keep everything "raw" to match the blue pine. If it was going into a formal room I would stain it. It also hit me that the routed profile on the plank joints matches the tongue and groove on the blue pines. I'm liking this quilted/tiger maple so much that my next project will be to put new veneer on my Thiel CS 1.5 speakers. I will dye these. I've included a photo of a pair of Linn sub woofers I recovered for a friend. Stay tuned.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Naturally when you remove material the contours will no longer match. As a fix I clamped adjoining pairs together and used the Rotex to blend one side into the other. Then I progressed through the grits. You can see the difference from the prior post to this one.
Now it’s on to a task that I have screwed up numerous times. Mitering the return. It always takes more material than you think it will and, as usual, I thought I would have a good size return. Not. Pretty small. I’m going to make the left side a cap only so I have a larger return on the right side, which is visible. Again, I will lose material in the process, which will require contouring the miter edge.
I have decided not to stain the fronts and keep everything "raw" to match the blue pine. If it was going into a formal room I would stain it. It also hit me that the routed profile on the plank joints matches the tongue and groove on the blue pines. I'm liking this quilted/tiger maple so much that my next project will be to put new veneer on my Thiel CS 1.5 speakers. I will dye these. I've included a photo of a pair of Linn sub woofers I recovered for a friend. Stay tuned.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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iamnothim
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iamnothim
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The benefit of seeing backwards….. or problems with designing on the fly.
What to do with the visible side(s). This is something that must be considered if ya’ll decide to implement this style. Especially for placement in a formal setting.
[member=45856]blaszcsj[/member]
First Lines: Yes, it would be cool to have each front use the routed profile as the boundary between drawers. In short, no straight lines. This can easily be done but at a cost of drawer density. The height of the drawer is not maximized because of the top and bottom overlap of the drawer box. IMO the fronts should be on the tall side.
Of course eliminating the wavy routed profile solves this but the look will be entirely different. That single detail takes it, IMO, from rustic to modern.
Options for the sides.
A) Forget about them and leave them the finished maple ply. After all, it’s a garage.
Something for a stand alone piece in a formal setting:
B) Apply a curly maple veneer. Easy but lacking the cool factor.
C) Apply single layer of routed wavy lateral planks. The drawer front return will overlap the single layer. Pretty cool.
Over-the-top Craftsmanship:
C)Wrap a contiguous plank all the way around the piece from rear left corner side to rear right corner side, taking into account the double wide drawer front and overlap. Because of the return miter and overlap the plank needs to be quite long. Very Cool and not for the faint of heart.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
What to do with the visible side(s). This is something that must be considered if ya’ll decide to implement this style. Especially for placement in a formal setting.
[member=45856]blaszcsj[/member]
First Lines: Yes, it would be cool to have each front use the routed profile as the boundary between drawers. In short, no straight lines. This can easily be done but at a cost of drawer density. The height of the drawer is not maximized because of the top and bottom overlap of the drawer box. IMO the fronts should be on the tall side.
Of course eliminating the wavy routed profile solves this but the look will be entirely different. That single detail takes it, IMO, from rustic to modern.
Options for the sides.
A) Forget about them and leave them the finished maple ply. After all, it’s a garage.
Something for a stand alone piece in a formal setting:
B) Apply a curly maple veneer. Easy but lacking the cool factor.
C) Apply single layer of routed wavy lateral planks. The drawer front return will overlap the single layer. Pretty cool.
Over-the-top Craftsmanship:
C)Wrap a contiguous plank all the way around the piece from rear left corner side to rear right corner side, taking into account the double wide drawer front and overlap. Because of the return miter and overlap the plank needs to be quite long. Very Cool and not for the faint of heart.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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iamnothim
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What I am going to do…
The returns on both sides will overlap the blue pine.
The left side drawer will overlap the blue pine frame of the cabinet to the left (pictured). I will panel the right side of the cabinet with blue pine and overlap the return. The drawer faces will be proud of the other cabinet (pictured).
[attachimg=1]
The returns on both sides will overlap the blue pine.
The left side drawer will overlap the blue pine frame of the cabinet to the left (pictured). I will panel the right side of the cabinet with blue pine and overlap the return. The drawer faces will be proud of the other cabinet (pictured).
[attachimg=1]
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iamnothim
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Sanding the returns. Lesson learned.
Sand as little of the face of the plank contours as possible. At least this reduces/eliminates any miter gap when viewed head on. A side view is not-so-good. Try not to leave any creases in the high to low transitions.
I could have done a better job mitering. I have to workout a descent wood fill formula for the voids.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Sand as little of the face of the plank contours as possible. At least this reduces/eliminates any miter gap when viewed head on. A side view is not-so-good. Try not to leave any creases in the high to low transitions.
I could have done a better job mitering. I have to workout a descent wood fill formula for the voids.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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