Bob Gerritsen lr 32 jig ;) EDITED: WITH VIDEO.

[Bob Gerritsen]

Sorry for me putting my name in the title but I saw the post below and couldn't resist....

Hope I succeed in uploading the photo, first time for me.

Not sure if this idea has been posted before but here's what I made today out of a piece of scrap and a very very nice 17mm Zobo drill bit:

[attachimg=#]

I've been checking out the lochness32 setup and had almost pulled the trigger but at the last moment I figured I'd do it myself.
After having worked with my neighbors Festool system 32 setup I decided to focus on the lochness jig. What I don't like with the Festool setup is that it is very wide, meaning you need quite a bit of width on the board receiving the holes. The lochness idea is a bit more intuitive in my view.

Anyway, took me 30 minutes plus buying the Zobo bit and the special 5mm bit. I think this is a great way to start with this system 32.

Thanks for looking, Bob.

UPDATE/EDITED 3RD SEPT 2012:

 

[AlexThePalex]

Looks like a good, easy and cheap jig to do the job. But how did you make sure the holes were placed at an exact distance?

 

[Alan m]

not sure how you centered the holes either but it looks good.
iv got the lr32 set but not compatable router. i think it is an aquard system compared to  the basic systems like this or that lochness system.

that lockness sytem looks fast.

report back how your jig works bab

 

[waynelang2001]

Hey!! My jig is exactly the same [big grin], the distance between the holes is not critical as long as you always square the jig off the bottom or top of the work piece on every panel, and dont flip it around.  Simple, easy and cheap as heck.

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

Haven't used it yet but will soon and I'll give a full report then.

The irony is, although Wayne is right and the accuracy isn't critical, that I've used my neighbors Festool lr 32 jig to give me the guide points you can see in the photo. After that it was simply eyeballing the drill to these points. Otherwise I would have gotten out the calculator and tape measure to do it manually, this was a lot faster and more convenient. After this one, the second one is easy, I will make one or two shorter ones ones too.

I've got a big job in September that involves many many holes, will provide a review after that.

Cheers, Bob.

 

[Kev]

If you're just using it for shelf pins, I agree - accuracy is not critical on spacing ... but I'd know myself and it would drive me crazy!

 

[waynelang2001]

If you're just using it for shelf pins, I agree - accuracy is not critical on spacing ... but I'd know myself and it would drive me crazy!

Agreed, I only use this jig for shelve pins and the distance i use between holes is 50mm so I do get the holes accurate upto 0.5mm when I drill the jig by hand. Thats close enough for me.

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

If you're just using it for shelf pins, I agree - accuracy is not critical on spacing ... but I'd know myself and it would drive me crazy!

Actually I believe the accuracy on this jig is well within the tolerances for woodworking, at least well within mine. I've used my neighbors setup to set out the points/marks but those actually did have enough depth to steer the center point of the 17mm drill, I've not checked every distance but I'm sure it's not going to be easy to find anomalies.

Btw, I believe the Festool setup of my neighbor has a tiny amount of play, again well within the tolerances I use so no problem what so ever but it's not like cnc work.

 

[fshanno]

A home made Meg jig.  I made one of those years ago.  You need to chamfer the top of the hole quite a bit, give yourself a big target.  It's surprisingly hard to find the next hole. 

I wanted one that didn't require lifting the router.  So I made this.

[attachimg=1]

You don't have to lift the router.  You use the bigger copy ring and make the holes in the jig slightly smaller.  Then rip the board down the middle.  You slide it along.  The copy ring will engage the smaller arc in two places holding the router in place.  Just as fast as the LR32 but not as much fun. 

But it developed a nice curve over time.  Why I use hardwood I'll never know. 

 

[waynelang2001]

A home made Meg jig.  I made one of those years ago.  You need to chamfer the top of the hole quite a bit, give yourself a big target.  It's surprisingly hard to find the next hole. 

I wanted one that didn't require lifting the router.  So I made this.

[attachimg=1]

You don't have to lift the router.  You use the bigger copy ring and make the holes in the jig slightly smaller.  Then rip the board down the middle.  You slide it along.  The copy ring will engage the smaller arc in two places holding the router in place.  Just as fast as the LR32 but not as much fun. 

But it developed a nice curve over time.  Why I use hardwood I'll never know. 

Very nice jig you have there, I can see how it would be faster to the trained woodworker. The jig the OP made that i also use works better for me in that i can show someone how to use it in 2 minutes and they cant make a mistake. I actually have a video of my mother using it on a paying customers job and I had no worries of her making a mistake.

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

Right, it might be a bit slower but no chance of messing up the workpiece. I remember my neighbor warning me to keep the speed down a bit with the Festool setup, as he did actually drill outside of the grit on occasion when doing many holes. Always very inconvenient having to start over from scratch... After a while you sort of go on auto pilot and that's when pushing down too soon becomes a bit more of a risk.

I don't know, in the end it all depends on the user and what not but I know I can get a bit dreamy with lots of repetition so I think this is the way to go for me.

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

So I've used the jig now and have added a short clip to my first post to show you how.

Comparing this system to the Festool system I'm thinking this might not even be slower. Setting it up surely is a breeze, just keep it flush to the edge, clamp it and of you go, idiot proof as what you see is what you get. No calculating back and for repetitive work one could easily ad a stop or quickly screw one on. For just a couple rows of holes the setup itself might even be faster than the Festool system, certainly more convenient at least that's what I think. I've not done anything to the holes yet, chamfering those will make it even easier and thus faster but I'm pretty happy with how it performs already.

Like I've said before it is practically impossible to make a mistake and mess up the workpiece, that's a nice bonus to this system. However my main reason for going this route is the small footprint. I make plenty small cabinets and the Festool system with the big rail plus then some for the router is just too much. It is obvious it is a cool trick considering the rail itself already existed when they came up with the hole jig but if you were to design it from scratch a wide rail like that wouldn't be ideal. I was going to buy the lochness32 jig, was minutes away from ordering when all of a sudden it hit me that it is so easy to make it yourself. Sure, no fancy spring loaded sled now but I'm not missing it, really.

I've cut up my initial 2400 mm jig to a 1800 and 600 piece. Is a bit more convenient for most jobs but will probably make another 2400 one soon, maybe a 1200 too.

Anyway, hope the video is clear, please let me know if it is not. Used my iPhone to record it and it was hard enough to keep it upright, hence the low angle view.

Have many many holes to drill end of the month and will let you all know how that went down.

Thanks for watching, Bob.

 

[ART at WORK]

So how did it go with all the hole drilling?

More pictures of how you made it please. You drew round the oblong holes in the LR 32 then eyeballed the drilling?

I agree with you on the large foot print with the rail.

Pip

 

[waynelang2001]

So how did it go with all the hole drilling?

More pictures of how you made it please. You drew round the oblong holes in the LR 32 then eyeballed the drilling?

I agree with you on the large foot print with the rail.

Pip

Dont see why you would need the LR 32 to help make this jig, a tape measure and pencil did the trick for me when marking out the holes and they are perfectly accurate.  I dont even have a LR 32 rail and i dont ever see a need to get one with this simple jig. Ive even used this jig to drill holes in cupboards that where already built and installed, you can't do that with the LR32 setup.

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

Right, it is like Wayne says, you don't need a rail to make this jig. The fact I could get my hands on one made the process easier that's all. I've not made more pictures of making this but in short; I've used the actual LR32 setup with very limited depth to come up with starter holes (that are not actual holes as they are not maybe ones mm deep) so to speak, having the bit just touch the material. Then these started holes made the 17 mm bit center itself almost.

I've used it for a couple cabinets now, the big job got pushed forward a bit so will be doing lots more in a couple weeks. I can say already it is a dream to use though. It is very intuitive, you just slap it on keeping two edges flush and have at it. No matter how shallow the panel, always room for this jig and like Wayne says I wouldn't hesitate using this on already built cabinets. Apart from saving money (I've just bought an extra OF1010 from the savings , I'm pretty sure I would go for this jig almost always if I had this and the original LR32. But that's because I think the LR32 is simply too complicated for what is a rather simple job and didn't like using it a bit. If you want to treat yourself to a ready made solution, go for the Lochness32 which is essentially the same deal only in aluminum and with the spring mechanism of the LR32. I thought maybe I'd be getting that anyhow one day but I'm too pleased with this now. Will make some extra lengths for sure

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

....to have some more choice in the future. As one can also use these for already constructed cabinets it is nice to have a couple different lengths.

In short, don't hesitate but just make one yourself and I'm sure you'll be well pleased.

Cheers, Bob.

 

[ART at WORK]

Thanks for the explination.
I understand now. it really is an easy and effctive jig
Thanks for sharing

Pip

 

[joiner1970]

Regards drilling the holes at 32mm spacing accurately, I once watched a new Yankee workshop episode where norm did something similar. To get the spacing right you make a wooden table for your drill press with a rear fence set at the right distance. Then you need a pin the same size as your holes, this pin is set exactly 32mm from the centre of the drill to the right . You drill your first hole then place the hole over the pin and drill the next and so on . This way it will be very precise , I will probably have a go myself when I finish refurbishing my old pillar drill.

 

[waynelang2001]

Regards drilling the holes at 32mm spacing accurately, I once watched a new Yankee workshop episode where norm did something similar. To get the spacing right you make a wooden table for your drill press with a rear fence set at the right distance. Then you need a pin the same size as your holes, this pin is set exactly 32mm from the centre of the drill to the right . You drill your first hole then place the hole over the pin and drill the next and so on . This way it will be very precise , I will probably have a go myself when I finish refurbishing my old pillar drill.

I saw that video also, I think the next time i make my new templates out of ply ( there made out of chipboard now ) I'll be using the same method. There is no way you could mess up the spacing with that hole-dowel jig.

 

[polarsea1]

Regards drilling the holes at 32mm spacing accurately, I once watched a new Yankee workshop episode where norm did something similar. To get the spacing right you make a wooden table for your drill press with a rear fence set at the right distance. Then you need a pin the same size as your holes, this pin is set exactly 32mm from the centre of the drill to the right . You drill your first hole then place the hole over the pin and drill the next and so on . This way it will be very precise , I will probably have a go myself when I finish refurbishing my old pillar drill.

I haven't seen the video, a machinist showed me that trick. I made a jig from aluminum plate using allen nuts as locating pins for top and sides. Because I have nuts on both faces of the jig I can flop it and use it for both panels. If you follow me........  [blink]