bookcase units with domonoes and fluting

[honeydoman]

[attachimg=#]this was made with the domino's to put the cabs together, and pocket screws and then I use the 1400 for the fluting, along with the holes jig for adjustable shelves.  and the ts75 with the 106 guide to breakdown the sheets good, then I go into my delta unisaw for final smaller sizing  festools work great for this stuff

 

[Eli]

That looks fantastic Honeydo. Did you use beadboard for the backs and doors?

 

[honeydoman]

i used mdf beadboard for the back.  the doors I ran through my table saw with the blade just peaking above the table and it worked real well.  they were mdf raised panels that i ran through the saw.

 

[Lancashire Fusilier]

Nice work. Are the panels cupboars or just panels? Was the room pretty square? I live in a 100 year old home and nothing is square which scares me off doing stuff like this.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

        I like the way the center stands proud, and then the shelves and cupboards do a double set back.  The lighting looks good too.

Seth

 

[semenza]

Nice work. Are the panels cupboars or just panels? Was the room pretty square? I live in a 100 year old home and nothing is square which scares me off doing stuff like this.

Hi,

      Don't be put off. I have had many jobs that were out of plumb, square, and level all at once. You just have to build square, allowing enough room (tolerance) to install it level. Then scribe trim all the way around. Even if it is way off the eye tends to look at the cabinets and shelving itself and not so much the edges. Unless you are a woodworker, then you see  every little flaw (especially if it is your own work)  Not much else you can do without rebuilding floors or walls.

Seth

 

[Lancashire Fusilier]

Yeah I guess I need to use some moulding to hide it at the edges. With the base, should I use a kick board with adjustable feet that allow me to level it and then put a skirting board on top to hide the gap?

 

[Eli]

I'd say no on the feet. They work fine, but for a bookshelf that's a lot of weight. I'm not even that keen on them for kitchens, I'd rather level a kickbox and put cabinets on top of that.

 

[Lancashire Fusilier]

So would that be with wedges? I have a federation home with jarrah floors and thick skirting board mouldings and need to build cabinets on either side of the chimney fireplace in the recess. I imagined building a box and then covering the box but wasn't sure how to level & square it up. Any thoughts?

 

[Eli]

What's the baseboard in the room like? Shoe molding? Any crown molding?

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      Honeydoman, sorry , I didn't mean to take your thread off topic. Lancashire Fusilier maybe you want to cut and paste all of this into a new topic?

      I generally would build a box (kick box) to be the desired height of the base board. Assuming you have base board otherwise make the kick board whatever you desire. Once you have this level, and square using shims (wedges) Try to support it in several places. To hide the gaps you then run a skirting kick board  / base board scribed around the box. Use one box to put all of the seperate shelf or cabinet units on. That makes it easy to get them all lined up and attached to each other. For that reason alone I use this method even if a floor isn't way out. I have never found any install location that was right on anyway. It also helps make them into one unit, and more likely to all move together with house movements.
      You can even use this box to square the cabinets to a wall by pulling one end or the other away a little if need be. In effect squaring the visible corner of a room after you have got them installed.

Seth

 

[Lancashire Fusilier]

Sorry, have hijacked thread. Can someone help and we can move this to a new thread?

 

[Eli]

I don't know that it's a complete hijack. It's still about domino'ed bookcases.

 

[honeydoman]

seth,

most of mine sit on the carpet and I build them so the sides go to the floor, and then put the bottom up the height I need to clear baseboard.  I rarly build a box bottom frame and then sit the cab box on top of that.  I could see doing that in a kitchen so you can level the whole run and then set the boxes on top.

but that is what I do, and then screw them to the wall at the studs location.  the tops bookcase part is usually attached to the bottom box from underneath, or pocket whole screws.

 

[Eli]

I've done both. The last time I did it the kitchen way somewhere else was a laundry closet that was just outside the kitchen area. I gave it a toekick. Also leveling a ladder base or toe box first is usually a lot easier than leveling the entire huge thing. Also if the bookcase goes all the way to the ceiling having the extra few inches allows you to easily pivot it up in to place before setting it on the kickbox without it gouging the ceiling trying to get past diagonal. Both ways are good. It's nice having less pieces to do it without a bottom box. A floor to ceiling unit I like to break into at least two pieces anyway. The way to eat an elephant is lots of small bites. ;D