Bookshelf, what's wrong with it? Suggestions please.

[Yuri]

Hey folks,
Can you guys give me some comments/suggestions about this book stand. I made this drawing in Sketchup (I'm just learning it) and it doesn't look right. Something is wrong with the base, it should be longer and at least flash with face frames, but I'm not sure what is the proper aesthetics of such shelves/stands

[attachimg=#]

Thank you

 

[jonny round boy]

Aesthetics wise, I can't put my finger on what's wrong with it (I've only looked at it briefly), but from a practical point of view I'd say the shelves are wrongly proportioned. They are 2 to 3 times deeper than the height of the gaps between them. There's no indicator of scale on the drawing, so I don't know the sizes, but you won't find books that will fit on those shelves (unless it's huge, and you want layers of books).

 

[Yuri]

Aesthetics wise, I can't put my finger on what's wrong with it (I've only looked at it briefly), but from a practical point of view I'd say the shelves are wrongly proportioned. They are 2 to 3 times deeper than the height of the gaps between them. There's no indicator of scale on the drawing, so I don't know the sizes, but you won't find books that will fit on those shelves (unless it's huge, and you want layers of books).

this is good suggestion, Thank you. I didn't even think of this.

Do you see anything wrong with the bottom of this stand? The face frames overhand too much?

 

[tbellemare]

The face frames look out of proportion wide.

Tom

 

[Mirko]

The scale looks like it should hold wine bottles not books, start with a book and work from there...

 

[Yuri]

ok, we'll scrap it and start new.
I agree with all that you guys said.

 

[tbellemare]

What Mirko said is so perfect...

Design first for function, then for aesthetics.

If you were to design a tape dispenser, where would you start? The tape, of course.

Tom

 

[Rob-GB]

Ah! But what size roll of tape?  [wink]

The following info is taken from the Metric Hand Book Planning & Design Data ISBN 0-7506-0899-4

Listed as TYPE:-Number per 300mm length of shelf:- & Recommended shelf depth.

Childrens books:- 10-12:- 200-300mm
Literature, history, politics:- 7:- 200mm
Scientific & technical:- 6 :- 250mm
Medical :- 5 :-250mm
Law :-4 :- 200mm

Cookery books are often even larger, and book heights are among the most awkward sizes to plan for, I tend to measure the largest I or my client has then make a lower shelf area that size plus 30 to 40 mm depending on how it looks drawn up.
Just checked the depth and height of one of Suzy's cookbook shelves, 290mm deep and 320mm high.

Hope this is of some help.
Rob.

 

[Neill]

Yuri,

I agree with what's been said, but you were concerned about the way the bottom looked.

My suggestion here, would be to let the bottom shelf rest directly on the toe kick.  You can eliminate that portion of the face frame thereby giving you more shelf height.

Neill

 

[Yuri]

Yuri,

I agree with what's been said, but you were concerned about the way the bottom looked.

My suggestion here, would be to let the bottom shelf rest directly on the toe kick.  You can eliminate that portion of the face frame thereby giving you more shelf height.

Neill

Hi Neil,
Thank you for your post. That was indeed my concern and what you said was something I was thinking of. Let me try to do this and see how it works

Thanks

Yuri

 

[Yuri]

Ok, I redone the bottom part of this so called book shelf, which has a lot more things to redo, but as far as I wanted to set sketchup, I'm happy how easy and quick this design process was. Of course it's a take one, or actually 1.2 but I'm happy that it's easy to rework things on the fly before you touch any tools etc.

Here is the second take:

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[Tim Sproul]

To me,

It looks like a kitchen cabinet box.

 

[Mac]

To me,

It looks like a kitchen cabinet box.

I think this is because it's still much too deep for the height of the shelves.  The bottom looks much better though, the proportions are coming together. Keep tweaking those shelves, now...as was mentioned previously, grab some books and get a feel for the depth to height ratios.  Looks like you're getting a good feel for the software already.

cheers,
Rick

 

[Neill]

Yuri,

Definitely looks better but IMHO the toe kick and the shelves just look too thick in relation to the overall structure.  I think you have got the idea if you just trim them by about half I would say.

Neill

 

[Tim Sproul]

It looks like a kitchen cabinet box because the rails and stiles are too wide.  Bookshelves generally look better using 3/4 thick stock for shelving on this scale.

There is a Taunton book titled "Bookshelves" that you could look at for some ideas.  Barrett is the author, I think.

 

[tbellemare]

Ah! But what size roll of tape?

That's exactly why you start with the tape... In addition to how it must be dispensed, etc.

Tom

 

[nclemmons]

In Sketchup, under file menu go to Google's 3d warehouse and search for bookshelf and I think you will find a few of examples to help in your design exploration.  All free and pre drawn.  Download and edit to your dimensions and taste.

For your design, consider 3/4 shelves if they're shorter or at most 1 1/2 inch fronts on the shelves if they're longer. Try 2" top rail and vertical stiles.   Let the top of the base be the bottom shelf and extend it 3/4 beyond each side, and 3/4 beyond the front, but flush with the back.   Inset the kick space below this bottom shelf by about 3/8 inch on the front and sides.  Make the top of the bookcase the same size as this bottom shelf to start.  These dimensions should give it a bit more proportion.  I might do a frame and panel side with 1/2 ply inset in rails and stiles and the same on the back to add a bit more interest.

Below is an attached example of this...  This bookcase is 36" wide and 41 1/2" high.  (3/4 top + 36" side + 3/4 bottom shelf + 4" base), 2" stiles and rails.  You could go to 2 1/2 on the bottom stiles.  I just drew this quickly so you could visualize it.  The unit is 12" deep.

Neil

 

[mouppe]

I recommend that you graduate the shelf sizes. Take the height of the middle shelf and add 1" for the shelf above and subtract 1" for the shelf below, and so on to the top and bottom. You may have to jig things around to get a sensible starting height for the middle shelf.

Can you add a cornice or a moulding to the top? This will make it look less boxy. Thinner shelves will help too.

Here is an example of a very simple bookcase that would be quite simple to make, and looks well-proportioned.

http://www.cpando.co.uk/catalogue/prod.php?prod=50

 

[Chris Hughes]

There are some rules I start with in design. 

First, a face frame should not exceed 2", usually I keep my frames 1 1/4".

Second, I keep a book shelf as shallow as I can, which is usually no more than a foot.  Much deeper and you lose sight of the books.

Third, if possible keep the shelving adjustable.  Unless the bookcase is part of a library that is busting at the seems with books and space is a premium then allow a little more space between the shelves, it is a little more elegant.  On a unit that is 84" I would not put more than four shelves unless space requires.

Fourth, face the shelves as thin as possible with the shelves being subordinate to the face frame width.

Fifth, if the toe kick is not recessed then it should be capped as a furniture base and should wrap the three visible faces.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Ah! But what size roll of tape?

That's exactly why you start with the tape... In addition to how it must be dispensed, etc.

Tom

You start with interviewing some people who use tape about how they use the tape and what their goals are when using the tape.  Then you start designing.