Boom Arm Demonstration

tjbnwi

Member
Joined
May 12, 2008
Messages
7,046
Something I always needed. Finally got around to it. My criteria; simple to make, easily removed, easily transported, sturdy, did not alter CT in any way.

Gathering the necessary information;

[attachthumb=#]The first of the Festool items to be used.

[attachthumb=#][attachthumb=#]Measurements showing hose plug dimensions.

[attachthumb=#]Outside dimension of Schedule 40 PVC.

[attachthumb=#]Putting Festool pen and paper to use.

[attachthumb=#]Gotta love BuildCalc®

Preparing to cut a tapered shim 1/2" in 12";

[attachthumb=#]Got clamps? Various ones will be used through out this demo.

[attachthumb=#][attachthumb=#]Aligning board to cut tapered shim.

[attachthumb=#]Bracket for leg of MFT interfered with clamping the guide rail in place. Problem solved.

[attachthumb=#]Guide rail in place.

[attachthumb=#]Panther blade going on the TS 55. It is the 2.2mm Panther.

[attachthumb=#][attachthumb=#]Make a plunge cut. Start carefully and end prior to exiting the workpiece.

[attachthumb=#]The work piece laid out to cut the 1/2" in 12" taper.

Cutting the taper loose from the work piece;

[attachthumb=#]Using the fence stop and 1/2 of a clamping element to set the work piece to the edge of the rail.

[attachthumb=#]Pieces cut loose.

[attachthumb=#]They do fit together well.

Prepping the CMS to machine the needed plugs;

[attachthumb=#]Note where I store the anti-rotation pin.

[attachthumb=#]1400 installed.

[attachthumb=#]Plate in proper position, sliding table and fences installed.

[attachthumb=#]I needed a back up fence. Used the one for the MFT. It fits the CMS perfectly.

[attachthumb=#]Another view of the 2 fences.

[attachthumb=#]3M 2 sided tape to hold the shim in place.

[attachthumb=#]Pipe in place to be machined. I used the fence as a stop. The bit was set to the height of the shim, the edge closets to the fence is what does the work. The piece is rotated against the spinning bit.

[attachthumb=#]I had to back up the fence, it flexed. I should have used a ring with a larger hole. Doing so may have improved dust collection. I did tape the 36mm hose off.

Checking size and fit;

[attachthumb=#]Small end.

[attachthumb=#]Distance back to check large dimension.

[attachthumb=#]Large end.

[attachthumb=#]Fit looks good.

Time to make the female adapters;

[attachthumb=#]Inside dimension of 2" schedule 40 PVC.

[attachthumb=#]A coupling used as a holder to machine the insert.

[attachthumb=#]I used a long piece of pipe to keep my hands away from the cutter. Depth is achieved by raising the bit in 1/4" increments.

[attachthumb=#]Fences adjusted and a coupling used as a stop.

[attachthumb=#]Closer view of the set up.

[attachthumb=#]4 female adapters with the hose male adapter in place for test fit.

[attachthumb=#]Clear cleaner, medium body glue.

It's assembly time;

[attachthumb=#]I choose to use ball valves. This allows me to connect 2 hoses and throttle them as the need arises.

[attachthumb=#]Bottom elbow is a standard sweep DWV hub to hub, the upper fitting is a DWV 4 outlet Y, all hub, the side pieces are DWV 45º hub to slip, connected to DWV long sweep elbows, hub to hub. Seeing as I could install 2 hoses, I mounted a receptacle strip to the riser. Installed on my CT36AC. Note the PVC J hook near the top of the CT, this is what stabilizes the arm. It is clamped to the CT.  

[attachthumb=#]You have noticed there were 2 male adapters made and 4 female adapters. I figured while I was set up I might as well make 2. Installed on my CT22.

A few notes;

Please work safely if your going to copy this, eye and hearing protection is a must. Think about what the cutting tools are doing in each operation.

Though more than one tool can be attached at a time, do not exceed the receptacle rating of the CT. Run one tool at a time.

I went this way instead of from behind like the one available from Festool or what I have seen being made by others, because I wanted simple. It plugs in as easily as plugging in a hose.

The stability comes from fit of the male plug and the J hook clamped back to the CT. If I had a few systainers on the CT's the hook would be higher up and the piece would be more stable.

Tom

 
Nicely done, Tom, and a very thorough and well-illustrated project description. Thanks for sharing.
 
Very cool...I like the technique for making the shims.  Do you have any issues with static build-up on the pipe?  If so, you might want to put some copper/aluminum tape or wire on it to help ground it.  I had to do that on a non-Festool sander -- kept getting zapped until I grounded the dust collection port.  Might not be an issue for you, though.

Scot
 
I should have mentioned the grounding issue. I ground the riser through the ground on the strip, it returns to the main receptical.

Thank you for the compliment.

Tom
 
That thing is awesome! I am really thinking of ways to outfit my shop with good dust collection over my work table. I have a 5hp shop vac that has a tremendous amount of power, even with a 2.5" diameter hose. If I scaled down the diameter a little bit, and fashioned something out of PVC to go over my work bench, then hang a hose from it, I think I would have something worth talking about :)
 
If you do go the PVC route, make sure you run ground wires along the pipe. 

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Something I always needed. Finally got around to it. My criteria; simple to make, easily removed, easily transported, sturdy, did not alter CT in any way.

Gathering the necessary information;

[attachthumb=#]The first of the Festool items to be used.

[attachthumb=#][attachthumb=#]Measurements showing hose plug dimensions.

[attachthumb=#]Outside dimension of Schedule 40 PVC.

[attachthumb=#]Putting Festool pen and paper to use.

[attachthumb=#]Gotta love BuildCalc®

Preparing to cut a tapered shim 1/2" in 12";

[attachthumb=#]Got clamps? Various ones will be used through out this demo.

[attachthumb=#][attachthumb=#]Aligning board to cut tapered shim.

[attachthumb=#]Bracket for leg of MFT interfered with clamping the guide rail in place. Problem solved.

[attachthumb=#]Guide rail in place.

[attachthumb=#]Panther blade going on the TS 55. It is the 2.2mm Panther.

[attachthumb=#][attachthumb=#]Make a plunge cut. Start carefully and end prior to exiting the workpiece.

[attachthumb=#]The work piece laid out to cut the 1/2" in 12" taper.

Cutting the taper loose from the work piece;

[attachthumb=#]Using the fence stop and 1/2 of a clamping element to set the work piece to the edge of the rail.

[attachthumb=#]Pieces cut loose.

[attachthumb=#]They do fit together well.

Prepping the CMS to machine the needed plugs;

[attachthumb=#]Note where I store the anti-rotation pin.

[attachthumb=#]1400 installed.

[attachthumb=#]Plate in proper position, sliding table and fences installed.

[attachthumb=#]I needed a back up fence. Used the one for the MFT. It fits the CMS perfectly.

[attachthumb=#]Another view of the 2 fences.

[attachthumb=#]3M 2 sided tape to hold the shim in place.

[attachthumb=#]Pipe in place to be machined. I used the fence as a stop. The bit was set to the height of the shim, the edge closets to the fence is what does the work. The piece is rotated against the spinning bit.

[attachthumb=#]I had to back up the fence, it flexed. I should have used a ring with a larger hole. Doing so may have improved dust collection. I did tape the 36mm hose off.

Checking size and fit;

[attachthumb=#]Small end.

[attachthumb=#]Distance back to check large dimension.

[attachthumb=#]Large end.

[attachthumb=#]Fit looks good.

Time to make the female adapters;

[attachthumb=#]Inside dimension of 2" schedule 40 PVC.

[attachthumb=#]A coupling used as a holder to machine the insert.

[attachthumb=#]I used a long piece of pipe to keep my hands away from the cutter. Depth is achieved by raising the bit in 1/4" increments.

[attachthumb=#]Fences adjusted and a coupling used as a stop.

[attachthumb=#]Closer view of the set up.

[attachthumb=#]4 female adapters with the hose male adapter in place for test fit.

[attachthumb=#]Clear cleaner, medium body glue.

It's assembly time;

[attachthumb=#]I choose to use ball valves. This allows me to connect 2 hoses and throttle them as the need arises.

[attachthumb=#]Bottom elbow is a standard sweep DWV hub to hub, the upper fitting is a DWV 4 outlet Y, all hub, the side pieces are DWV 45º hub to slip, connected to DWV long sweep elbows, hub to hub. Seeing as I could install 2 hoses, I mounted a receptacle strip to the riser. Installed on my CT36AC. Note the PVC J hook near the top of the CT, this is what stabilizes the arm. It is clamped to the CT.  

[attachthumb=#]You have noticed there were 2 male adapters made and 4 female adapters. I figured while I was set up I might as well make 2. Installed on my CT22.

A few notes;

Please work safely if your going to copy this, eye and hearing protection is a must. Think about what the cutting tools are doing in each operation.

Though more than one tool can be attached at a time, do not exceed the receptacle rating of the CT. Run one tool at a time.

I went this way instead of from behind like the one available from Festool or what I have seen being made by others, because I wanted simple. It plugs in as easily as plugging in a hose.

The stability comes from fit of the male plug and the J hook clamped back to the CT. If I had a few systainers on the CT's the hook would be higher up and the piece would be more stable.

Tom

This is a great email.

It has inspired me to make one to fit my needs.

 
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