Bought a MFT/3, my 2nd Festool...tool. Hopefully I use it correctly

[Wenyce]

Looking forward to it guys!  The MFT/3 comes in on Friday, that means the wood chucking party starts on Friday night!

You forgot to send out the invitations! We need your address.

[big grin]

Here's the address where the party will be...

Directions To:  Festool MFT/3 Assembly and Wood Chucking Party - Friday, August 29

2 more days till it gets here!  Darn it feels like forever!  I hope it doesn't arrived damaged  [crying]  I bought it from Bob Marino as I heard he goes above and beyond so I'm hopeful that it's packaged well.  90lbs!  [eek]

I hope so too.

To get you started, heres a wood chuck, chucking wood, btw how much wood are you gonna be chucking over there.. ( any projects lined up?).

 

[Just F Me]

My girlfriend wants me to build her a small "shoe box" out of wood so that she can put paper flowers in it.  Almost like a planter type box.  SUPPPPPPER excited about it!  Will get started on it this Saturday morning

 

[wow]

My girlfriend wants me to build her a small "shoe box" out of wood so that she can put paper flowers in it.  Almost like a planter type box.  SUPPPPPPER excited about it!  Will get started on it this Saturday morning

Sounds like a perfect project to hone your skills on. Be sure to post lots of pictures!

 

[Just F Me]

Guess what came today!    [big grin]

But...guess what happened.  [crying]

The rail and accessories were inside the big box and they were banged up pretty bad inside.  I kept the box that had the rail and it's totally smashed on one corner hence why it transferred to the rail.  I would have thought the inside boxes would be packaged well so that it doesn't just get thrown all over the place inside.

So I'm squaring the table up per the instructions on the Festool video and setup guide...

I know it's not a woodpeck square, but I hope it's good enough.  No play what so ever.  However...a concern of mine....

When I put my square on the opposite side of the fence, I get this.

There's a gap...does that matter?  I guess maybe not because the fence is square to the guide rail, but the fence isn't necessarily square to the table top?

 

[tiralie]

The rail and accessories were inside the big box and they were banged up pretty bad inside. 

Send it back and get another one. That is unacceptable.

There's a gap...does that matter? 

No. unless you decide to use dogs, then everything will be off.

I guess maybe not because the fence is square to the guide rail, but the fence isn't necessarily square to the table top?

Correct, it's (square to table) mostly irrelevant if you use the system as designed without dogs.

If the fence and the rail are at 90 degrees to each other and the fence is properly fixed to the table then the only variable is the operator.

Tim

 

[Just F Me]

So...I started my "shoe box" project today for my girlfriend.  First off, this table is pretty rad.  You guys already know this.  It's pretty amazing much faster it is to make repetitive cuts that are consistent.

Not too bad...

So I just tried some different things this time around and decided I should probably use my router (It's just a cheap roybi that I've used twice).  So I drew up a design where I would just slide a piece of wood through a dado on all ends, and once it's all put together, that'll hold it. I made it this way because I felt it would minimize the appearance of the side profile of the plywood (where you see all the layers, I don't know what that's called...you know...the end thingy!??!)

Side Panels

End Panels

Panels Merged.

So the dado slot would allow me to put a piece of wood in there.  However, it seems as though either 1) my router doesn't have enough power, 2) the router bit sucks, 3) operator error and it could very well be all 3 and maybe more heavily towards operator error but I couldn't get the router to cut a 3/4" dado without breaking the plywood.

Ghetto rigged router and dust sucker.  [big grin]  I lost the attachment that goes on top of the router to help suck up the dust.  Yes that's a pile of dust on the floor on the left.  Also, yes, that's a tray that's full of power steering fluid because I had to replace the hose in my commuter car.

So...forget it...plan B.  Got rid of the dado grove and made this instead.

Here you can see the side and end put together.  I'll cut a separate piece of wood that will drop in and that will become the base of the box.

So far...that's all I got!  I know...it's not that impressive of a build, but when you haven't had a lot of experience with wood and you're just learning as you go, it's pretty damn fun! [thumbs up]

 

[wow]

I know...it's not that impressive of a build, but when you haven't had a lot of experience with wood and you're just learning as you go, it's pretty darn fun! [thumbs up]

And it's much, MUCH cheaper than therapy!

 

[Just F Me]

I know...it's not that impressive of a build, but when you haven't had a lot of experience with wood and you're just learning as you go, it's pretty darn fun! [thumbs up]

And it's much, MUCH cheaper than therapy!

OMG...that's a good one.  Does that work on the wife?  Not that I have a wife now, but I was thinking I would use that line one day? 

I really wish I had a second MFT table.  Right now, when I want to cut a narrow piece less than say...7 inches, I have to use a spacer piece of wood so that I have something that can butt up the flag.  Also, if the piece is really long, now it's sticking out with no table to help support it on the right side.  BOO.

Also, a second question.  When I was making those dados, I had some problems.  For lack of experience and not knowing what to call it, I'm going to call it kick back.  It's just a scrap piece I was messing with, but you can see from the top of the photo, you'll see some issues  [huh]

I'm not sure if it's the crappy router bit or is it because the router is too weak and crappy, or maybe it's the crappy operator  [big grin]?  It's just a Ryobi 1.5hp.  If it's the router, I'll probably ditch it and throw it on Craigslist then buy the Festool.    I'm thinking the OF1400?  I've read from a number of places that even though they have both the OF1400 and OF2200, they tend to use the OF1400 90% of the time?

Actually, with how insanely dusty this router is, I should just sell it and get the Festool.  I spent about 20 minutes cleaning up all the saw dust. 

 

[carlb40]

The new project looks good. With a lower powered router make your dado/rabbet cuts in multiple passes say 1/8th inch / 6mm or there abouts. It will be easier on your router and cutters and should help minimise kick back. Also some feather boards will help keep things in place during routing.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=featherboard+designs+router+table&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=ftkCVL-1KsHU0QWJw4DwCQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1920&bih=1078&dpr=1

 

[wow]

Also, a second question.  When I was making those dados, I had some problems.  For lack of experience and not knowing what to call it, I'm going to call it kick back.  It's just a scrap piece I was messing with, but you can see from the top of the photo, you'll see some issues  [huh]

I'm not sure if it's the crappy router bit or is it because the router is too weak and crappy, or maybe it's the crappy operator  [big grin]?  It's just a Ryobi 1.5hp.  If it's the router, I'll probably ditch it and throw it on Craigslist then buy the Festool.    I'm thinking the OF1400?  I've read from a number of places that even though they have both the OF1400 and OF2200, they tend to use the OF1400 90% of the time?

Actually, with how insanely dusty this router is, I should just sell it and get the Festool.  I spent about 20 minutes cleaning up all the saw dust.

That looks like it might be a router support issue? As in, the router isn't stable when it gets to the edge of the board? If so  there are a couple of things you can try:

1. Use a sacrificial piece of wood - anything that's the same thickness as your workpiece - to butt up against the end and give your router a support piece to ride on when it gets to the edge.

2. Start with a longer piece that you dado, then cut to length afterwards.

Do either of those ideas seem like they would help and/or work for you?

 

[grbmds]

"Also, a second question.  When I was making those dados, I had some problems.  For lack of experience and not knowing what to call it, I'm going to call it kick back.  It's just a scrap piece I was messing with, but you can see from the top of the photo, you'll see some issues."

Regardless of how cheap the router is (and I own an old Ryobi router which I used for years without problem), I wouldn't think the router itself would cause that. It's more likely what WOW said. Either suggestion is good.

 

[RKA]

Can you describe more specifically what you did?  I see some unevenness in all 4 corners.  This seems to suggest the fence halves are not co planer, the fence is shifting on you and/or you're plowing the entire dado in one pass and the router is torquing the work piece at the beginning and end of each pass when you don't have both fence halves to support the work piece.  I'm not quite sure why the leading edge was torqued on one pass and the trailing edge on the other pass. 

 

[Just F Me]

That looks like it might be a router support issue? As in, the router isn't stable when it gets to the edge of the board? If so  there are a couple of things you can try:

1. Use a sacrificial piece of wood - anything that's the same thickness as your workpiece - to butt up against the end and give your router a support piece to ride on when it gets to the edge.

2. Start with a longer piece that you dado, then cut to length afterwards.

Do either of those ideas seem like they would help and/or work for you?

I went out to Home Depot and bought a Freud Diablo 3/4 double flute bit.  It cuts like a dream now.  However, I've only tried cutting about 1/4" depth at a time.  The router just plows through it nicely.

 

[Just F Me]

Can you describe more specifically what you did?  I see some unevenness in all 4 corners.  This seems to suggest the fence halves are not co planer, the fence is shifting on you and/or you're plowing the entire dado in one pass and the router is torquing the work piece at the beginning and end of each pass when you don't have both fence halves to support the work piece.  I'm not quite sure why the leading edge was torqued on one pass and the trailing edge on the other pass.

For the passes I was making previously, I would try to do 3/4" deep in one shot, however, that's not working obviously.  I got a new Freud Diablo 3/4" bit as I mentioned earlier and it's cutting great.  You are exactly correct that the fence halves are not co planer.  I'm not sure how to fix it?  There is a tiny space of maybe 0.25 - 0.50  millimeter. between the two halves.  [sad]

BTW, I am using this on a router table opposed to routing with an edge guide or something. 

 

[wow]

For the passes I was making previously, I would try to do 3/4" deep in one shot, however, that's not working obviously.  I got a new Freud Diablo 3/4" bit as I mentioned earlier and it's cutting great.  You are exactly correct that the fence halves are not co planer.  I'm not sure how to fix it?  There is a tiny space of maybe 0.25 - 0.50  millimeter. between the two halves.  [sad]

BTW, I am using this on a router table opposed to routing with an edge guide or something. 

OK, knowing that you are using a router table obviously means that my suggestions don't apply. No problem.

Are you saying that after getting the new Freud bit and not trying to hog it all out in one pass that you are now getting acceptable results? Yes?

If no, what is still not to your liking?

 

[carlb40]

Can you describe more specifically what you did?  I see some unevenness in all 4 corners.  This seems to suggest the fence halves are not co planer, the fence is shifting on you and/or you're plowing the entire dado in one pass and the router is torquing the work piece at the beginning and end of each pass when you don't have both fence halves to support the work piece.  I'm not quite sure why the leading edge was torqued on one pass and the trailing edge on the other pass.

For the passes I was making previously, I would try to do 3/4" deep in one shot, however, that's not working obviously.  I got a new Freud Diablo 3/4" bit as I mentioned earlier and it's cutting great.  You are exactly correct that the fence halves are not co planer.  I'm not sure how to fix it?  There is a tiny space of maybe 0.25 - 0.50  millimeter. between the two halves.  [sad]

BTW, I am using this on a router table opposed to routing with an edge guide or something.

Add full length sub fence to your existing fence and shim it out to get the new fence flat. Keep the new sub fence in one piece to make things easier.

Just looked at your router table, as the fence has separate left/ right cheeks - you could shim the one that is not coplaner. Just undo the bolts and add a piece of paper / tape/ card etc  till both are coplaner.  [smile] 

 

[Just F Me]

For the passes I was making previously, I would try to do 3/4" deep in one shot, however, that's not working obviously.  I got a new Freud Diablo 3/4" bit as I mentioned earlier and it's cutting great.  You are exactly correct that the fence halves are not co planer.  I'm not sure how to fix it?  There is a tiny space of maybe 0.25 - 0.50  millimeter. between the two halves.  [sad]

BTW, I am using this on a router table opposed to routing with an edge guide or something. 

OK, knowing that you are using a router table obviously means that my suggestions don't apply. No problem.

Are you saying that after getting the new Freud bit and not trying to hog it all out in one pass that you are now getting acceptable results? Yes?

If no, what is still not to your liking?

It looks like a new bit fixed everything.  I haven't tired plowing through the plywood in one pass (3/4 diameter bit, 3/4 deep), but with a pass that's more shallow, it's perfectly clean

 

[Just F Me]

Can you describe more specifically what you did?  I see some unevenness in all 4 corners.  This seems to suggest the fence halves are not co planer, the fence is shifting on you and/or you're plowing the entire dado in one pass and the router is torquing the work piece at the beginning and end of each pass when you don't have both fence halves to support the work piece.  I'm not quite sure why the leading edge was torqued on one pass and the trailing edge on the other pass.

For the passes I was making previously, I would try to do 3/4" deep in one shot, however, that's not working obviously.  I got a new Freud Diablo 3/4" bit as I mentioned earlier and it's cutting great.  You are exactly correct that the fence halves are not co planer.  I'm not sure how to fix it?  There is a tiny space of maybe 0.25 - 0.50  millimeter. between the two halves.  [sad]

BTW, I am using this on a router table opposed to routing with an edge guide or something.

Add full length sub fence to your existing fence and shim it out to get the new fence flat. Keep the new sub fence in one piece to make things easier.

Just looked at your router table, as the fence has separate left/ right cheeks - you could shim the one that is not coplaner. Just undo the bolts and add a piece of paper / tape/ card etc  till both are coplaner.  [smile]

Good tips!  Thanks !  Much appreciated.

 

[Just F Me]

I have a project coming up that I need to rip a 13.25" x 71.25" vertical panel for a shelf.  I want to build a "book shelf" type piece for my Mom's laundry room.  Similar stuff at Ikea is going for $300+, might as well build it myself right?  I was going to cut it from 4' x 8' melamine sheet.  Parallel guides would probably make this easier, but I'm trying to not have to drop more money right now.

My plan to cut was the following

1)  Cut 1/4" off the short side of the sheet.
2)  Butt that freshly cut short side to the fence on the MFT/3.  I will marry the 42" rail with my 55" rail to make my full length cut.
3)  Flip the sheet over, using the same side butt up to the fence, make another full length  cut on the opposite side
4)  Using the long side against the fence, perform a cut to shorten the piece down to 71.25"

During all steps, crossing my fingers and hoping that it's square.  [big grin]  Thoughts?  Suggestions?  This will be my 4th project  [thumbs up]