Boxing in a window?

[ttime4four]

New festool owner here - one of my first "honey do's" since I got the MFT and TS55 is to box in a bedroom window.

Back when I had a table saw, I would just measure the depth of the window casement and rip a 1x4 on the table saw to fit.  With the table saw no longer in the arsenal, I'm looking for tips on how to accomplish this with my Festool kit.  I don't yet have the Parallel Guide but I do have a Guide Rail long enough for the longest rip that I need to make.

I know the Domino kit would also help but I might not full out nutz on this project.  [cool]

Thanks in advance.

 

[Alan m]

dont no if you were welcomed or not but [welcome] to the fog.

as for the cutting. i usually get 2 pieces the same thickness and put the side by side , this will support the rail and allow you to cut the first piece

 

[Ken Nagrod]

[welcome] and this can be done with the TS55 and guide rail, one of two ways.  I definitely think it's easier and faster to run it through a table saw, but since you have to make due with what you have, here are the 2 methods.

First decide whether your "keep" piece will be on the outside of the guide rail or underneath.  If outside of the guide rail, you'll have to add for the kerf of the blade (actual thickness during a cut).  You can run a test piece to figure that out.  Just partially rip a board and measure it.  Then add that amount to the final width you need ripped.  Put some wood underneath the guide rail that's the same thickness as the wood you're cutting to keep it level and balanced.  Mark the beginning, middle and end of the wood you're going to rip.  I always do a middle mark to keep an eye on things in case I've distorted the rail or forced the saw over.  Then make your rip(s) and your crosscuts.

If your "keep" piece will be under the guide rail, you'll need extra material to support the guide rail so it doesn't tip to one side during the cut.  Just make marks at the beginning middle and ends of your wood that'll be ripped.  Line up the edge of the guide rail and repeat the process as many times as needed, while keeping full support under the width of the guide rail so it doesn't tip.  Then just crosscut your pieces to length.

You'll be more accurate if ripping all the pieces you need from a single length, in one rip cut with the TS55 since lifting and setting down the guide rail on marks multiple times introduces operator error.

 

[pugilato]

I don't think I will be getting rid of my table saw... I see enough of these posts to discourage that kind of thing.  I keep a little Bosch table saw from Lowes which has done me well. 

 

[ttime4four]

I think between the suggestions on this thread and watching this review...

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/video-review-of-parallel-guide-attachment-for-ts75/

I should be able to get a decent rip of the narrow stock.

Thanks!

 

[spikfot]

ripping tapered jam extensions with the guard rails is reason enough to buy a TS55 and a few rails, I used to do this 'freehand' w/o a rip fence on a portable table saw rough, and use a hand planer to finish. Those days (decades) are thankfully over.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

ripping tapered jam extensions with the guard rails is reason enough to buy a TS55 and a few rails, I used to do this 'freehand' w/o a rip fence on a portable table saw rough, and use a hand planer to finish. Those days (decades) are thankfully over.

The ts-55 makes short work out of making any sort of tapered or angled cut.

I can fly through sub flooring in an old wonky house like greased lightning.

 

[spikfot]

ripping tapered jam extensions with the guard rails is reason enough to buy a TS55 and a few rails, I used to do this 'freehand' w/o a rip fence on a portable table saw rough, and use a hand planer to finish. Those days (decades) are thankfully over.

The ts-55 makes short work out of making any sort of tapered or angled cut.

I can fly through sub flooring in an old wonky house like greased lightning.

The Precisio drag saws make some wicked acute angle miter cuts, although the width of material becomes limited as the angle becomes more acute or 'sharper'