Bright white paint for shutters to use in Fuji MM5?

[DynaGlide]

I'll be painting some interior bare wood shutters (hopefully) next week with a Fuji MM 5 turbine. I've built them using Basswood. I'm a complete novice to finishing and am hoping someone can point me to a product that won't require a lot of fussing to get good results. Preferably something I can go grab at Woodcraft when I'm ready.

I've read enough threads to know it can get really technical but I figure with the 5 turbine and stock needle I should be able to just go at it. Do I need to prime them before I get into the finish coat(s)? I realize I may be oversimplifying but I'm hoping someone can just say go buy this, test it out, and get to work. Nothing fancy color wise just need them bright white to match interior trim which has yet to be painted, but will end up similar color.

 

[junk731]

Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua or Kem Aqua Plus with the matching SW primer. Read the SW Product data sheet before using. Doesn't get much easier especially with the unit you will be using.

 

[mrFinpgh]

I've read enough threads to know it can get really technical but I figure with the 5 turbine and stock needle I should be able to just go at it. Do I need to prime them before I get into the finish coat(s)? I realize I may be oversimplifying but I'm hoping someone can just say go buy this, test it out, and get to work. Nothing fancy color wise just need them bright white to match interior trim which has yet to be painted, but will end up similar color.

Depending on what you have available :

SW: Kem Aqua
BM: Duralaq

If you can't get those, Target coatings (online) pigmented lacquer is a good option to get familiar with.

All should be easy to spray without much work. 

 

[tjbnwi]

Seeing as they are interior shutters you can use KA+.

The brightest white you will get is the E64 W 520 Surfacer. It is far brighter than any top coat white.

You can spray on a couple of coats of Surfacer, sanding with 240 between coats, sand the final coat of Surfacer with 320.

Top coat the Surfacer with clear KA+ in the sheen of your choice. I would use MRE if you want matte, BRE if you want satin.

Depending on the gun you have it came with a 1.3 needle/nozzle set or a 4H set. Either will work. The Surfacer is heavier bodied, you’ll be out a full turn on the needle at full fan. The clear about 25% needle.

Now for the problems——Surfacer only comes in a 5, you’ll have to call the Products Finish store to see if they’ll pour off a gallon. They’ll do the same with the clear.

Expect to pay 80ish a gallon.

If you’re near Richmond I can get ahold of someone I know, they may have some extra on the shelf.

If you were near Colorado Springs, I could give you a quart or 2 of each.

Tom

 

[Sparktrician]

Check with Sherwin-Williams Commercial Paint Store, 14310 Sullyfield Circle #50, Chantilly 20151, (703) 802-9591.  They "may" have some, but not likely. 

 

[DynaGlide]

You guys are awesome. I'll look into all your suggestions in the morning post coffee and post any follow up questions I have.

 

[tjbnwi]

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/store-locator/product-finishes-facility/richmond/va/4356

Tom

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] So I just called the store in Richmond and spoke with Eric. He was friendly enough but told me they won't/don't sell to the general public and said I should look into buying S-W Pro classic. Thoughts?

I'm way out of my knowledge and comfort zone here. This could all be greek to me as far as I'm concerned.

 

[tjbnwi]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] So I just called the store in Richmond and spoke with Eric. He was friendly enough but told me they won't/don't sell to the general public and said I should look into buying S-W Pro classic. Thoughts?

I'm way out of my knowledge and comfort zone here. This could all be greek to me as far as I'm concerned.

Pro Classic water alkyd is a great paint, to slow drying for my application.

You should be able to spray it without a problem.

Tom

 

[blaszcsj]

I think i had to thin pro classic with water by like 20% to hit the flow requirements specified in the Fuji MiniMax 4 with 1.8mm tip.

 

[tjbnwi]

This vanity is Pro Classic water. The picture of the case side is after it was topcoated with KA+ clear.

The doors have not been top coated in the picture.

The reason for the top coat is---it's a vanity. The reason for the PC is that's is the homes trim color and I had 1/2 a gallon left over from the trim painting.

I don't recall thinning the PC (at my age 2015 is a long time ago on the memory....), but I would have shot it using a pot. I do know it was shot with the Fuji (Q4).

I would warm the product before I would thin it 20%.

Tom

 

[DynaGlide]

So I just buy a gallon of the pro classic and that's all I need? Couple of coats with sanding in between? No primer or top coats?

 

[tjbnwi]

I prime everything, no matter what the product states.

Use SW Wall and Wood.

Sand primer, 2 coats of primer sanded, no need to sand between topcoats.

Just the paint topcoats, I topcoated the vanity due to the wet location.

Tom

 

[PaulH99]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] Your experience is exactly what drove me to using Duralaq. The woman at the SW commercial store in Lowell, MA gave me a huge run-around about being concerned that I don't have a proper spray booth and that it wouldn't be safe for them to sell me any KA+.

One of the local paint stores near me stocks Duralaq in gallons, will sell it to the public no questions asked, and it sprays like a dream with the MM5. I'm using the T75G gravity gun, but that's just my personal preference.

 

[jyarbrou]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] any luck with your spraying? I'm getting ready to do the same, but planned on using Target Coatings EM6500.

 

[DynaGlide]

Hoping to do it in the next two weeks. Waiting on the 3m pps 2.0 kit to arrive

 

[DynaGlide]

I'm having issues spraying the SW wall and wood primer using the 1.5 set. Everything is clean and I've tried every adjustment. Do I need to thin it? Distilled water? Or something else. Fuji Q5.

 

[PaulH99]

Did you use the viscosity cup? Your paint may be too thick, but you won't know what ratio to thin it to until you know exactly how much too thick it is.

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=64998]PaulH99[/member] I took shortcuts so no. I'm going to go back at it with the viscosity cup, and make sure to have some Floetrol and water on hand to thin and extend it as necessary.

Good news is 3M got back to me and explained what I was missing. .the retainer has to come off the lid before you can assemble the H/O cup retainer. So I'll get to use the PPS for the rest of the job.  ;D

 

[DynaGlide]

The SW Wall and Wood measured 2min 5sec no thinning. 10% thinning with water brought it down to 58sec. I think I may go a bit further to 15% and try to get it around 30-40sec for the 1.5mm air cap set and a dash of floetrol to help it spread and do the parts laying flat. Sound good?