Building a MFT

[derekcohen]

While I have a Roubo-style workbench and prefer hand tools ...

... and have a Hammer K3 slider to take care of rip- and crosscutting ...

... it has dawned on me that that a MFT (multifunction table) would provide more than just another option for sawing - it could provide an ideal small assembly bench as well as a bench for holding small parts for routing and sanding. The balance was tipped when I recently acquired a (new) Festool AT 65EB track saw ... 20 years old but used once or twice at most.

I build a small workbench in solid timber: 1200 x 600mm pine frame and merbau top. Although I have a Domino, the construction was mortice-and-tenon. Since the top was not a standard MFT, it was necessary that I drill the 20mm holes. These were to be 96mm apart, as with the Festool MFT.

There are basically two methods to make one's own: the UFK Parf guide (drill), and the Trend template (router). The cheaper Trend template is $300 in Australia. Fortunately, I was offered the opportunity to make a template by a friend with a CNC. This went one better than the Trend, by doubling it in size. The template has 30mm holes and is used with a guide bush and 20mm router bit to create the 20mm holes.

The bench top was prepared by ensuring all sides were square, and then the template was squared to the front and right side ...

My old Elu router is at least 25 years old. It used a 30mm Trend guide bush fitted into a custom made adapter ..

The router bit is a Trend 20mm ...

I was also very pleased to see how well the dust collection worked. The Elu did not come with dust collection - this was not important 25 years ago! - and I adapted the fitting from a Dewalt to fit it.

Once all the holes were routed ...

... the template needed to be moved to complete the bench top. This was facilitated by two dogs which my friend had thoughtfully made for this purpose ...

The dogs are fitted into the existing holes to align the pattern ...

The remaining holes were drilled.

It only then occurred to me to check the bench top for flat - I should have done this earlier, although the top was flat when I first put it together. There was a 0.5mm gap at the centre, and I decided to plane it flat ...

The top was then sanded(80 grit) ...

... all is flat ...

The holes received a fine chamfer ...

... and the right side was bevelled at 20 degrees.

The reason for this is that the bench will also act as a outfeed for the jointer/thicknesser-planer and sliding tablesaw ...

Finally, the top received a coat of flat poly to protect it during glue-ups ..

Thanks for watching. I will return once a fence is built, and show the various work-holding methods.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I'm looking forward to seeing pics!

I made a folding 8020 TS outfeed table just in case I ever want to go mobile with it or move it out of the basement without taking it all apart.  It's ~36" x 72" which matches my TS width and is about 9/16" shorter than the TS.  This is important for me since it allows me to put a 1/2" MDF slab on top to cover the holes to prevent dust, debris, nuts, screws, dominoes, etc. from falling through on top of my 8020 MFT cart which sits below.  I also like that I could cut the slab, have Left/Right slabs, and wouldn't have to remove the guide rail since the MDF sits proud of it.  I'm not sure if this helps anybody, but I'm glad I made it to this height.

Folding MFT Table

 

[Muttley000]

Fine work here!  I have been kicking around a similar cart for combination assembly table, systainer storage, outfeed device and this will provide some ideas!

 

[festal]

[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] - very nicely done

[member=60777]Bugsysiegals[/member] that looks very good.  Do you happen to have the part list or plans for this?  i think this would fit my space perfectly

 

[derekcohen]

A question for all about where to position a flip fence and sacrificial strip for the saw kerf:

The length of the MFT is 1200mm. How far from the right side would the saw kerf end up? And why?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[tsmi243]

A question for all about where to position a flip fence and sacrificial strip for the saw kerf:

The length of the MFT is 1200mm. How far from the right side would the saw kerf end up? And why?

Regards from Perth

Derek

The fence and stops pretty much always go on the left, so your keeper piece will be on the left, too.  The right side just needs to be big enough to handle your off-cuts.  For me, the factory location set by Festool seems about right. 

If there's a particularly common length of piece you work with (table legs, maybe?), then make sure the fence can accommodate that.  Otherwise, no real strategy to it.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] - very nicely done

[member=60777]Bugsysiegals[/member] that looks very good.  Do you happen to have the part list or plans for this?  i think this would fit my space perfectly

It's not the finest documentation but I created a post of my table so everybody can see the dimensions, etc.  See my previous post for the link.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

A question for all about where to position a flip fence and sacrificial strip for the saw kerf:

The length of the MFT is 1200mm. How far from the right side would the saw kerf end up? And why?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I plan to cut a recess for a replaceable sacrificial strip and haven't mostly because of time but also because of the same question. 

I'm trying to consider the most frequent length cuts I'll make versus the rare one-off cuts (Ex. Long panel on the side of the refrigerator).  I've currently 19" of table to the Right of the guide rail with a wall 42" to the Right of the guide rail.  I suspect most panlels are less than this and I could move the guide rail Right but have a fair amount of room to the Left.  I like how Dashboards table can clamp the offcut piece so it doesn't fall ... I may incorporate that idea but if not I'd like to be able to hold it by hand so the 19" is probably more than I had on the MFT/3.  I'm curious to hear how others defined their position...

 

[squall_line]

I'm trying to consider the most frequent length cuts I'll make versus the rare one-off cuts (Ex. Long panel on the side of the refrigerator).  I've currently 19" of table to the Right of the guide rail with a wall 42" to the Right of the guide rail.  I suspect most panlels are less than this and I could move the guide rail Right but have a fair amount of room to the Left.  I like how Dashboards table can clamp the offcut piece so it doesn't fall ... I may incorporate that idea but if not I'd like to be able to hold it by hand so the 19" is probably more than I had on the MFT/3.  I'm curious to hear how others defined their position...

If you're starting from a 49x97 sheet of plywood, when it's time to cross-cut, all of your panels will start at 8', give or take.  Since the "waste" side is to the right (something I'm still trying to get used to), that means a pretty decent chunk of panel hanging off the right side.

When I cross-cut melamine shelf boards on my MFT, I either attach the MW-1000 extension table or set up the MW-1000 itself as a support, depending on how much length I need to worry about and how much room I have at the time.

I am in a 2-car garage with no stationary equipment, FWIW.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I'm trying to consider the most frequent length cuts I'll make versus the rare one-off cuts (Ex. Long panel on the side of the refrigerator).  I've currently 19" of table to the Right of the guide rail with a wall 42" to the Right of the guide rail.  I suspect most panlels are less than this and I could move the guide rail Right but have a fair amount of room to the Left.  I like how Dashboards table can clamp the offcut piece so it doesn't fall ... I may incorporate that idea but if not I'd like to be able to hold it by hand so the 19" is probably more than I had on the MFT/3.  I'm curious to hear how others defined their position...

If you're starting from a 49x97 sheet of plywood, when it's time to cross-cut, all of your panels will start at 8', give or take.  Since the "waste" side is to the right (something I'm still trying to get used to), that means a pretty decent chunk of panel hanging off the right side.

When I cross-cut melamine shelf boards on my MFT, I either attach the MW-1000 extension table or set up the MW-1000 itself as a support, depending on how much length I need to worry about and how much room I have at the time.

I am in a 2-car garage with no stationary equipment, FWIW.

Thanks!  It's been at least a few years since I sold my MFT/3 and cross-cut on a table so I'd forgotten the waste is to the Right.  Now you have me considering putting the fence to the far Left for the majority of cuts with another location on the Right for less frequent longer cuts.

I've set my guide rail the maximum it can go Left without my fence touching the Kapex.  In this position, considering a full-length plywood sheet (96"), the minimum cross-cut width is 16" for the first cut, 7.25" if a secondary cut or less than a full sheet, and the maximum cross-cut width is ~37.4" in. 

While only 16" would be resting on the table, it seems it would be easily held down by the weight of the guide rail and saw but could always add a clamp if needed.  In this position, the fence hangs off the edge of the table so I'd only want to push the panel up against the fence on the fence section which is on the table. I'd also not be able to square the end on the first cut but can slightly oversize, flip, and manage this shortcoming.

And then I imagine I could have a position to the Right which allows a longer panel to be cut and kept to the Left.

All that said, I have Track Tubes in the garage and while I don't want to haul the CT 36 up and then back downstairs it seems the better plan would be to break down sheets in the garage ... now I'm not even sure where to set the guide rail!  [huh]

View attachment 1 View attachment 2 View attachment 3