Building with shop made tools

derekcohen

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Somewhere after July/August, we hope to be moving home, downsizing as I retire from my practice, and into a house we are currently renovating. One of the interesting plans is a new workshop, somewhat the same as present, that is a double garage, half dedicated to the workshop. There are a few pieces of furniture I need to complete before we move.

Our bedroom will be smaller than now, and to make this work I need to build new, narrower bedside tables. Currently they are 600mm wide ...



To work, they need to be 400mm wide, and so I thought to model them on these, which I built 3 years ago ...



The main difference will be Jarrah throughout.

I have mentioned before that most of the Jarrah I use comes from salvaged pergola posts and roofing timber, since Jarrah, which is only ground south of Perth, is now a protected species.



This time it all turned out to be especially hard wood - sunbaked for umpteen years tends to do that. That made me pause because I was determined to build these bedside tables using the tools I recently made for the Fantasy Tool Box.



This is not going to be a blow-by-blow pictorial on how to build the tables, but rather illustrating components using the tools. I break this rule every now-and-then. Of course, you can always fast forward through these bits.

I still am amazed that these panels were made from glueing together several 90mm wide boards ...





The cases are 400mm wide x 350mm deep. Construction is a mitred-through-dovetail case.



Mitred through dovetails enable rebates (at the rear) to be buried inside the case walls. Mitres at the front are neater aesthetically, and this will also make it easier to add a mild bow front to each case.

Sawing the dovetails in this very hard wood was aided with a smidgeon of oil on the saw teeth ...



I was so gratified to find how well the M2 chisels chopped through this wood ...



This one's for Charlie, who cannot get enough of blue tape ...



Anyway, the cases turned out well, and we shall start at the end and show them. Then I'll come back to illustrate the details.

Finished with one coat of hard wax oil at this stage ...



Waterfall sides ...



The ubiquitous dovetails. They have been kept simple, classic London-style ...



The drawers are a piston fit, slide beautifully, and have excellent extension (I am always surprised when this happens ... did someone sneak in and tune them when I was asleep?) ...



The rear panel has not been fitted as yet, and cannot until the drawers have a pull. Note here the slips at the rear - more on making these later on ...



This is a good point to stop, and the next post will illustrate how the tools were used.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
The drawer parts have been cut and, with the exception of the drawer back (which can only be added once we know the position of the drawer bottom), these parts are dovetailed together. The next step is to create the groove at the rear of the drawer front for the drawer bottom. This is made extra deep to allow for the curve to come ...



A feature of these cases is a slight bow front. Here can be seen how much is curved ...



The purpose of the bow front is to soften what would otherwise be many hard edges.

A template was made up to mark the cases top and bottom, and then the waste was planed away ...



A similar template was then used on the drawer front to mark the outside curve. Note that this would be fine tuned later when the drawer and case was together ..



When marking out the half blind dovetails, space was left for the drawer front bow. This can be seen from the side of the drawer ...



The tiny block plane was used to chamfer the edges to avoid spelching (I shall post separately about this plane. It is a little gem) ...



... and the double-iron smoother made quick work of shaping the curve ...



I must admit that one of my pet dislikes is a curved drawer front with the rear left flat. The rear needs to be curved as well. Here is the matching curve ...



To do this, simply use a cutting gauge along the front curve ...



Now I get a chance to use the cooper plane I made for the course in New Zealand, where we shall build a cabinet with a coopered solid wood door. In previous build I hollowed the drawer back with a narrow shoulder plane. The cooper plane worked so well .... and it supported my thought that it would also be useful as a jack plane ...



The finish off a card scraper. This one has one curved side for the coopered door (in the future). Note how much waste in shavings came from hollowing out the drawer back!



Before shaping the curve, the drawer front board was 20mm thick. It will end up 15mm thick, which is the same thickness as the case. The drawer sides are 6mm thick, and when they are this slim, drawer slips are made to both support the drawer bottom and to add extra registration for the drawer sides. The drawer sides are Radiata Pine, which is quite soft and not particularly good at withstanding the wear in a drawer. Consequently, the slips have Jarrah undersides to beef up this area.

The slips are made of two parts: a 3mm ploughed groove and the reinforcement ...



Ready to be attached ...



The Pine used here, as used with the drawer bottoms, came from a bunk bed I built for my son 20+ years ago. This was the clearest pine I have ever come across (I do not know what it is), and I held onto the bed frame when it was pulled apart (little kids become big kids). I thought that it would be fitting to use it now, although the frame yielded only narrow boards. More in a while.
 
Slips behind the front ...



Slips to the rear ...



Traversing (planing across the grain) to flatten the panels. I really love this trying plane. Such a sweet worker ...



... and then with the grain ...



The drawer bottoms are 6mm thick and sized to inside of the 3mm deep grooves in the slips. This requires a 3mm x 3mm rebate on each side of the board.

Planing across the grain requires the moving fillister using its nicker ...



Once the drawer bottom is in, the front needs to be mated with the curved back of the drawer front. Scribing is done using a washer ...



The curve is planed with the spokeshave. That was easy!



This is the fit ...



And, finally, turning the drawer upside down. The Jarrah-reinforced slips, and the slotted screw groove ...



Thanks for watching.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
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