Buy out accessories

[Joe Duarte]

Rev a Shelf.... What a disappointment....
Expensive accessories for mediocre quality.

In the future, I'm thinking on making these accessories myself. Has anyone followed this path? Is it too extremist of a position?

I'm really lost on this one.

 

[tjbnwi]

I just make all my cabinet accessories, that way they all fit and do what I want them to do. I'm far to lazy to screw around fixing others stuff.

Tom

 

[Jonhilgen]

Yeah,  the spice pull outs are garbage.  Which is good for me, since it seems like the kitchen designer I work with is always incorporating them into a design where modifications are necessary.  Since they're so poorly constructed, it's a breeze to knock them apart to rework them!

Their trash pullouts still seem to be nice.

Jon

 

[tjbnwi]

I fab spice shelves on the back of doors, short the cab shelves, keep them away from a heat source, it ruins the spices.

Tom

 

[semenza]

      I do all mine from scratch. In part to almost always building cabinets or pantries to maximize the space available for the customer. Frequently that means non-standard sizes to begin with.

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Seth

 

[fshanno]

You know where they've got us?  You can see it in the background of your first photo.  Yeah, there.  The little metal rail. 

It's the metal parts.  I'm not a metal guy and I don't want to be.  It's hit or miss finding little metal rail thingys that can add a touch of professionalism to the thing.  I've bought stainless rod and rigged my own but it's rigged.

I tell you I can do and have done.  Use a nice hardwood in a contrasting color for the shelves.  I've used walnut for the adjustable shelves.  Say you spend $8 a bdft for 10 board feet.  On a small pullout it wouldn't be that expensive to go with something like padauk or wenge.  The labor and hardware would still be the biggest expense.  Especially if you're using $300 Fulterer glides.  On cabinets with dark stain you could go with birdseye maple and a clear finish.

 

[semenza]

You know where they've got us?  You can see it in the background of your first photo.  Yeah, there.  The little metal rail. 

It's the metal parts.  I'm not a metal guy and I don't want to be.  It's hit or miss finding little metal rail thingys that can add a touch of professionalism to the thing.  I've bought stainless rod and rigged my own but it's rigged.

I tell you I can do and have done.  Use a nice hardwood in a contrasting color for the shelves.  I've used walnut for the adjustable shelves.  Say you spend $8 a bdft for 10 board feet.  On a small pullout it wouldn't be that expensive to go with something like padauk or wenge.  The labor and hardware would still be the biggest expense.  Especially if you're using $300 Fulterer glides.  On cabinets with dark stain you could go with birdseye maple and a clear finish.

    For the little metal thingy along the front shelf edge.........  Peter Halle suggested using  wire drawer pulls.  Which I haven't had the chance to try yet but I think would work very well.  Especially since a few different colors and styles  are available as well as  a variety of lengths.  Wire Drawer Pull Images

      That idea for a different contrasting wood is excellent !!

Seth

 

[fshanno]

And there are the shoe rails from, you guessed it, Rev A Shelf.

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Cabinet Parts  carries all the sizes.

I'm kind of creeped out using something for food that has "shoe" in the name.  But mainly the sizes are all wrong.  23"  is too big.  It's like they wanted to make sure you COULD NOT use them in a pantry.

And the prices of the steel units you see out there make Festool pricing look like Harbor Freight.  A zillion dollars for some wire and stamped steel flashed together by Chinese chicks with braids and pony tails under their welding hoods. 

 

[Joe Duarte]

Hafele also has these rails http://www.build.com/hafele-547-51-218-chrome-9-75-long-steel-rail-for-custom-wood-shelves/p1588325
I thank you all for your insights, but we are not efficient in making kitchen accessories. We rather outsorce some parts, such as doors or moldings so that we can be cost efficient.
The problem is that all/most of the accessories available are of mediocre quality.

Joe

 

[tjbnwi]

Hafele also has these rails http://www.build.com/hafele-547-51-218-chrome-9-75-long-steel-rail-for-custom-wood-shelves/p1588325
I thank you all for your insights, but we are not efficient in making kitchen accessories. We rather outsorce some parts, such as doors or moldings so that we can be cost efficient.
The problem is that all/most of the accessories available are of mediocre quality.

Joe

So how is using/reworking a mediocre product more efficient/better than fabricating your own to fit the need? What am I missing?

Tom

 

[leakyroof]

The last picture with the stripped screw is bad, ruined hardware is a future source of frustration for anyone if the hardware needs to be loosened or removed. The "Gap" picture didn't bother me, I'm not sure most clients would catch the uneven spacing between the two sides as long as the items on the slide-out are smoothly and easily accessed each time the unit is moved out and then back-in.  I think a binding unit would go much further in sticking out as a poor quality unit in a kitchen slide-out.  It bothers you, and the rest of us that would have gotten the gaps more even perhaps, but is this the normal quality level from Rev-a-Shelf that you've seen, or an example of worst quality yet?
I tend to see Seth's point, as I'm working with older houses  that have little 'standard' to them.   [embarassed]

 

[polarsea1]

I've been planning to build some pantry rollout shelves and this thread has me thinking. I was assuming that there was some decent product available to serve as a rail. Doesn't really look like it unless I build the thing to suit the hardware.

I think I'm going to make a drilling jig to place holes in the front and back, install either a T-nut in the front or a threaded insert, thread one end of a stainless rod, slip it in from the back, tighten it up and call it good.

Anyone see any 'holes' in this plan?  [big grin]

 

[tjbnwi]

Look at the Tenn-Tex Quick Tray support standards;

http://www.quiktray.com

Tom