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Mastercabman,
Well with that being the case than we'd only be able to compare C12's with other C12's ;D
Well with that being the case than we'd only be able to compare C12's with other C12's ;D
C 12 Drill VS two 18v drills
- Thread starter PaulW
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Jack Rafter said:
Will we start seeing hopped up C12s now
I think the test does a great job of showing that
- a). The C12 could do the job if asked to.
b). The protection Circuitry really does keep the drill from killing itself.
c). That it has amazing power and torgue for its size and voltage.
Seth
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- Sep 4, 2007
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Seth,
Ditto!
Ditto!
Brice Burrell
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Hey Joe thanks for sharing your side of the story. If you guys get a chance check out Joe's site, he has some great articles and videos. And Joe I really like your setup to help clamp the stock and rail for the LR32 hole drilling system.
Joe,
I stayed up late last night watching your videos before I read this thread. Good thing. I went and bought the C12 set.
Not long ago, I tried using my Makita 18V LXT lithium ion hammer drill with a new 2 1/2" hole-saw (Greenlee) through 3/4" MDF. It barely made it and took the better part of 2 minutes. I had to use my Milwaukee corded drill, took less than 30 seconds with no black marks.
Bill, from FestoolSupply, has 3", 4" hole saws that he uses a C12 to make holes in granite and corian. Your video confirmed what I expected... the C12 can and others are questionable.
Good job, keep doing what you are doing, there are people like me who just want to see the tool in action and don't need a scientific design of experiment done.
thanks from Seattle,
Al
I stayed up late last night watching your videos before I read this thread. Good thing. I went and bought the C12 set.
Not long ago, I tried using my Makita 18V LXT lithium ion hammer drill with a new 2 1/2" hole-saw (Greenlee) through 3/4" MDF. It barely made it and took the better part of 2 minutes. I had to use my Milwaukee corded drill, took less than 30 seconds with no black marks.
Bill, from FestoolSupply, has 3", 4" hole saws that he uses a C12 to make holes in granite and corian. Your video confirmed what I expected... the C12 can and others are questionable.
Good job, keep doing what you are doing, there are people like me who just want to see the tool in action and don't need a scientific design of experiment done.
thanks from Seattle,
Al
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- Jun 24, 2007
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Hi,
Joe,
I would be interested to see, or at least read (dial up here), a comparison of these drills when using a bit size in the upper end of the range that would be considered normal use for a cordless drill. Maybe something like a 1" - 1 1/2" spade, auger, or forstner? If you feel like doing another test.
Seth
Joe,
I would be interested to see, or at least read (dial up here), a comparison of these drills when using a bit size in the upper end of the range that would be considered normal use for a cordless drill. Maybe something like a 1" - 1 1/2" spade, auger, or forstner? If you feel like doing another test.
Seth
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- Sep 4, 2007
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Brice,
No problem, I've watched some of the stuff you do/did and a laugh out loud sometimes. As I'm sure you know, that like you it's not done with any malice. The biggest part of doing things like this is that not everyone sees the world in the same color. I really thought that the test of the drills was a practical one with a real world demanding application. Does anyone really want to see another 14" screw driven into something? :
Anyway thanks for the plug, and keep up the nice work and demo's you do.
No problem, I've watched some of the stuff you do/did and a laugh out loud sometimes. As I'm sure you know, that like you it's not done with any malice. The biggest part of doing things like this is that not everyone sees the world in the same color. I really thought that the test of the drills was a practical one with a real world demanding application. Does anyone really want to see another 14" screw driven into something? :
Anyway thanks for the plug, and keep up the nice work and demo's you do.
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Al,
I'd just like to sent a thanks back at you. ;D
Seth,
I've got a bunch on board already like finishing my basic cabinet making videos (finished end panels, drawer boxes, doors and finishing), some more on crown moulding and then another big project on roof cutting. But considering that that test would be small and quick I'm sure I can do it. If you subscribe to my YouTube page you'd be notified every time a new video was put up.
I'd just like to sent a thanks back at you. ;D
Seth,
I've got a bunch on board already like finishing my basic cabinet making videos (finished end panels, drawer boxes, doors and finishing), some more on crown moulding and then another big project on roof cutting. But considering that that test would be small and quick I'm sure I can do it. If you subscribe to my YouTube page you'd be notified every time a new video was put up.
I really enjoyed the video(s). Joe - you seems like a very practical guy and I appreciate your candor and your ideas. The MFT repair is a really good idea.
Last year I had to drill almost 40 4" holes in a soffit (for ventilation) using a 4" hole saw. I was working on a ladder, above my head. I started with my 3/8" corded drill, and cooked the gears. I then used my 1/2" panasonic cordless until could get my neighbors 1/2" corded bosch. The panasonic survived, and I found out the bosch had a clutch to protect the gearbox. That clutch probably saved me from a broken wrist, or worse.
I found out (about 20 holes into it) that if I started with the hole saw, then drilled 1-2 relief holes (1/2" or 3/4" with a speedbore bit, inside the 4" circle), and then continued with the hole saw the hole was finished in less than 1/2 the time and less than 1/2 the effort as compared to trying to do the whole (or hole?) thing at once with the 4" saw. I was drilling through 1" thick aluminum clad pine, so it was not all that hard, but I think the impact would be similar in oak. The relief holes made a huge difference.
Chris
Last year I had to drill almost 40 4" holes in a soffit (for ventilation) using a 4" hole saw. I was working on a ladder, above my head. I started with my 3/8" corded drill, and cooked the gears. I then used my 1/2" panasonic cordless until could get my neighbors 1/2" corded bosch. The panasonic survived, and I found out the bosch had a clutch to protect the gearbox. That clutch probably saved me from a broken wrist, or worse.
I found out (about 20 holes into it) that if I started with the hole saw, then drilled 1-2 relief holes (1/2" or 3/4" with a speedbore bit, inside the 4" circle), and then continued with the hole saw the hole was finished in less than 1/2 the time and less than 1/2 the effort as compared to trying to do the whole (or hole?) thing at once with the 4" saw. I was drilling through 1" thick aluminum clad pine, so it was not all that hard, but I think the impact would be similar in oak. The relief holes made a huge difference.
Chris
Joe,
How about the c12 vs a decent drill like the 14.4 Revolithium Panasonic. It has a brushless motor and advanced electronics very much like the c12. I bet the Panasonic runs circles around the C12. And at half the price of the C12 you get the most advanced battery system on the market.
Eiji
How about the c12 vs a decent drill like the 14.4 Revolithium Panasonic. It has a brushless motor and advanced electronics very much like the c12. I bet the Panasonic runs circles around the C12. And at half the price of the C12 you get the most advanced battery system on the market.
Eiji
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Eiji,
From some other people I know who have owed Panasonic drills, they have always had good things to say. So I don't doubt that the drill you state is a good one. I just did that test with the drills I had on hand. I'm sure that drills by Hilti and even Metabo would do a good up against a C12.
From some other people I know who have owed Panasonic drills, they have always had good things to say. So I don't doubt that the drill you state is a good one. I just did that test with the drills I had on hand. I'm sure that drills by Hilti and even Metabo would do a good up against a C12.
Eiji F can you provide a link to the documentation detailing the technology that goes into the Panasonic drills. I was poking around on there site and couldn't find anything that mentioned the brushless motor and such. One down side to lithium from what I've heard is cold weather performance, which the C12 wouldn't suffer from nearly as much...
;D Now I don't care who you are, that's funny right there! ;DBarry said:
How many times in your life are you going to drill a hole that big in oak, and do you need a $400.00+ cordless drill to do it? I'm reaching for my 1/2" corded drill or drill press.
mastercabman
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after burning cordless drills by manufactuer claiming that their tools are "HEAVY DUTY"(dewalt,milwaukee,...) i think we do need to create a drill that can stand the use and abuse from the operator.Steveo48 said:
brandon.nickel
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- Jan 23, 2007
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Ned,
Is there such a thing as "normal abuse"? This sounds self-contradictory to me. If one was in the habit of normally "abusing" their tools, perhaps they're using the wrong tool for the job? A tool performing its intended function is not being abused.
?
-Brandon
Is there such a thing as "normal abuse"? This sounds self-contradictory to me. If one was in the habit of normally "abusing" their tools, perhaps they're using the wrong tool for the job? A tool performing its intended function is not being abused.
?
-Brandon
brandon.nickel said:
Yes. Normal abuse is abuse, but it's so common that it needs to be taken into account. You may not use screwdrivers as pry bars, and I don't use screwdrivers as pry bars, but a general purpose screwdriver that shatters the first time it's used as a lever isn't a very good one. This wouldn't apply to, say, gunsmithing screwdrivers because it's reasonable to expect a 'smith to know better.
Normal abuse is the reason for the protective circuitry in the C12 (and other Festools). The manufacturer can't protect the tool against all the kinds of normal abuse, which is why many of us don't lend our Festools.
Ned
