c12 strong enough for a 12' x 20' deck?

[Mark]

I'm doing a small job fixing a deck for my folks but don't want to ruin my c12 driving screws. I'm probably going to use treated cedar and not ipe or tigerwood so the material shouldn't be too hard. Been thinking about getting an impact driver though and would appreciate recommends on that as well. Bosch, Makita, Hitachi, Dewalt or even Hilti. I'm not a contractor so I'm not abusing these things on a daily basis. Mahalo!

 

[Jim McFarland]

I just ordered a C12 from Bob so I can't speak to how well it would work for your deck repair (I'd bet it will work just fine).  The right angle and eccentric chucks are what finally sold me on purchasing a C12 but I don't expect it to replace my Makita 14.4 impact driver for driving a large # of deck screws.  I purchased the 6935FDWDEX kit a couple of years back and highly recommend the impact driver -- the drill and light are just a nice bonus.  I've also used a 12V DeWalt and no complaints with it either.

 

[Dan Clark]

Mark,

Aloha!  The C12 is quite powerful for a 12V drill.   I used mine to sister the joists in my garage ceiling...   

I drove about 1,500 3" and 3-1/2" X 5/16" lag screws into 3 to 4.5" of a combination of Hem-Fir, Doug-Fir, and Microllam sistered joists.   (Microllam is tough stuff.)    When it was just Hem-Fir and Doug-Fir joists sistered together with the 3" screws, I didn't predrill.  With the 3 1/2" screws into the Microllam, I found it better to predrill 1/2 way through.   

Here's a pic of the screws just before I slapped on glue and rammed them home:

The C12 is one tough little bugger.  It did quite nicely.  That said...

If I did it over, I'd have used the Makita BTD142HW Lithium-Ion Cordless Impact Driver that I now have.  The problem isn't really the drill; it's your wrists, arms and shoulders.  With longer lag screws and some bigger deck screws YOU, not the drill, will take a beating.

What I find amazing about my Makita Impact Driver is that there's virtually no effort difference between driving a #8 screw and a big, honkin' lag screw.   I'm still getting used to the bizzare feeling where you watch the big screws go in with no torque passed to your wrist.

For precise control on medium and small screws, use the C12.  For the bigger stuff, save your wrists - get an impact driver.

Dan.

p.s., if you have the C12 chuck kit, you'll find it very nice for those had to get spots.

p.p.s, if they're available use Torx or square drive screws.    Much less camming out.

 

[Hoover]

If you want a cheaper impact driver and don't use it all the time.  The ryobi impact is pretty good and only around $50.  Ryobi makes junk 90% of the time but they have a few things that are good and good buys for the price.

 

[Marco F.]

Mark, If you are screwing down a deck, forego the impacts and buy a corded screw gun. Impacts are great but they have there place. I own a few impacts(Makita, Bosch, and Milwaulkee) but when it comes to decks my crew always grabs the drywall/screw guns. Its a whole lot faster to use the corded screw guns versus impacts.
That being said, impacts are great for setting screws that didn't quite make it flush. I just got my C12 today and it would work fine for setting screws but I wouldn't want to use it for an entire deck, I wouldn't want to use an impact for an entire deck either.
On the topic of the C12, Im not completely sold on it and Im leaning towards sending it back... Its the first Festool product I've bought that hasn't really wowed me... Decisions, Decisions

 

[pteubel]

Ruin your C12??  I bought a couple C12s specifically for the fact I don't think one CAN ruin them...apart from using it as a hammer or throwing it off a building. It "knows" it's limits and will simply stop if/when they are exceeded. I use mine for drilling 1" holes (self-feeding auger bit) for conduit and plumbing thru floor joists. A lot easier to handle overhead than my Milwaukee right-angle monster.

I believe the C12 drove over 1 million screws in testing (still worked, but they stopped testing) while other cordless drills die after 100,000 or so.

Deck project? That's a walk in the park for the C12. The only reason you'd want to use something else is if you need more power.

- Pete

 

[Lou Miller]

I basically agree with Dan. Get an impact due to the ease of use. An impact is the perfect tool for deck jobs. The corded guns mentioned above are okay, but I prefer the impact far more. BTW, if you get a corded gun, make sure its a deck gun and NOT a drywall gun (basically the difference should be in the amps and the RPMS, ~4,000RPM for the drywall gun and 2,500RPM or so for the deck gun). A deck gun will hold up to running long screws in all day, but most drywall guns will burn up. I have several of each type of corded gun and a whole bunch of cordless drills. I reach for the impact (Makita is my preference) everytime for decks and don't think twice about it.

Its a shame that Festool is closed minded to the idea of coming out with an impact driver.

 

[Mark]

Mahalo Nui Loa FOG for the advice. I agree that the c12 is a pretty incredible tool but then again my only other reference was my 10 year old cordless 12v Porter Cable drill which I thought was the bomb when I bought it. WRT deck gun, I've got the Fast Fix Depth Stop chuck and used it on a ceiling the other day and it worked fine. It should work just as well in putting screws down at a consistent depth and finding Torx heads is a good suggestion also. I never really understood how good an impact driver was until I saw this guy using one to drive screws while making raised planter beds... loud and obnoxious but that screw just drove home without any effort.

 

[Dan Clark]

Mark,

I used Torx-head deck screws from a local Lowes (in the builders section).  So far, they've worked great for me.  GRK make Torx-head screws too. 

Please let use know how the Depth Stop Chuck works out. 

Thanks,

Dan.