Cabinet Interior Finishing

[member=4907]kcufstoidi[/member],

I purchase all my finishes in 5's. They will do a pour off, but it's rare I need just a gallon.

You think the the product is expensive, get the cost of the aziridine (cross linker) for it. The aziridine cost me 187 dollars a quart.

The 5's represent 4-6 weeks of spraying, depends on how the builds are going. Most I've sprayed in a month was 125 gallons of KA+.

Tom
 

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Thanks for sharing Tom ... I think that color would look great!!  I’ll check on the price of Hyrdo versus Enduro .. does Enduro self seal also or would I need the Zinsser underneath which may darken it more?
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Thanks for sharing Tom ... I think that color would look great!!  I’ll check on the price of Hyrdo versus Enduro .. does Enduro self seal also or would I need the Zinsser underneath which may darken it more?

Self sealing.

Tom
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Great, do I need anything to thin it or can I spray it and KA+ right out of the can?

Not certain, I'm not familiar with your spray gun.

Try warming the product before you thin it (no more than 100º).

Distilled water for thinning if necessary.

Tom
 
Very good, thanks for all the details Tom.

One last thing, overspray, considering whether to spray in the 6x9 tent in the basement or build an enclosed room with PVC and plastic and perhaps vent to the basement window. Do you think I could spray in the tent without having particulates leaving the tent and covering everything in my shop?  Would it be wiser to build an isolated PVC spray room instead?
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Very good, thanks for all the details Tom.

One last thing, overspray, considering whether to spray in the 6x9 tent in the basement or build an enclosed room with PVC and plastic and perhaps vent to the basement window. Do you think I could spray in the tent without having particulates leaving the tent and covering everything in my shop?  Would it be wiser to build an isolated PVC spray room instead?

If the gun is adjusted properly there should be minimal overspray.

I used to spray in my basement with KA+ all the time. I did section it off with plastic.

Tom
 
Great to know, I’ll make a booth then and exhaust it. Just out of curiosity, if any particles did leak out or were exhausted outside and landed on the side of the house, would it stick on and not be able to easily washed off or blown off with a compressor?  I’d imagine if the solution evaporated in seconds that it would be like a dust but thought I read even if dry it will stick and not wipe off easily ... would be great to know so I’m not coating my siding.
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Great to know, I’ll make a booth then and exhaust it. Just out of curiosity, if any particles did leak out or were exhausted outside and landed on the side of the house, would it stick on and not be able to easily washed off or blown off with a compressor?  I’d imagine if the solution evaporated in seconds that it would be like a dust but thought I read even if dry it will stick and not wipe off easily ... would be great to know so I’m not coating my siding.

It dry falls pretty quick.

If you're concerned, wet the side of the house.

Tom
 
It sounds like it’s not going to be an issue, thanks for all the feedback!!

Just curious, what do you use to clean your gun after spraying Enduro or KA+?
 
Tom the crosslinker is $90.00 CDN here which is about $70.00 USD. I find this expensive but adds a little more resistance (15%) to the Sayerlack which is already really tough stuff. I mentioned/discuss the gallon issue more for the hobby guys who can't use the large quantities. The only issue I've found with Sayerlack is it will crackle when used with Zinnser Sealcoat as an undercoat. When needed I use Vinyl sealer now as an alternative.
 
kcufstoidi said:
Tom the crosslinker is $90.00 CDN here which is about $70.00 USD. I find this expensive but adds a little more resistance (15%) to the Sayerlack which is already really tough stuff. I mentioned/discuss the gallon issue more for the hobby guys who can't use the large quantities. The only issue I've found with Sayerlack is it will crackle when used with Zinnser Sealcoat as an undercoat. When needed I use Vinyl sealer now as an alternative.

Thanks, I'll have too look into the pricing. I do know I'm paying about 40% more in Colorado than I am in Indiana. Part of it is the environmental and recycling fees they collect on each gallon.

It's rare I use any undercoater that is not part of the finishing system I'm using at the time.

I avoid any solvent bourne products. The vinyl sealer has to be reduced with lacquer thinner. The most flammable liquid I have in the shop is glass cleaner.

Tom
 
I have never used the KA+ clear but would test both Sealcoat and vinyl sealer. I only use them when needed as a vehicle to add warmth and chatoyance to the wood that WB doesn't offer, even the Sayerlack. I use a lot of highly figured woods and WB just does pop the grain the way I want without help. Both can be tinted with Transtint or ColorFX dyes. If I need anything more then the tone this offers I go to SW solvent based stains. I use the solvent stains because they don't grain raise the nastier woods like red/white oak and are completely compatible with the SW WB products. I'm currently testing some new clears that some reps have dropped off for my opinion. They say they give a solvent like look but that's for another thread.
 
Bugsysiegals said:
For future reference, what kind of undercoat sealer do you use with KA+?

For the clears-KA+ Sanding Sealer

For the pigmented-Gen II universal primer or KA+ Surfacer.

Tom
 
I have a gallon of a clear here, same situation——I haven’t opened it yet. Some day I’ll get to it-maybe.

My go to stain is BAC. Have not had to use it here yet (20 months). Except for some clears over RSWO or a whitewash over RSWO, not a single stain piece.

Tom
 
Would you use the SW sanding sealer with KA+ over Zinsser and is there a difference between Zinsser Clear Shellac finish and sealer vs universal sanding sealer which also is clearish?
 
Have you had a chance to spray the Sayerlack pigmented opaque yet? I asked my SW rep for a sample and they sent a 5 gal pail. Nice to spray and but had to use the Gen 2 primer, which was also nice to spray. The free sample worked out great, got a job spraying 20 interior doors.

That BAC stain is really nice to work with and low odor. Works really well with the clear Sayerlack.
 
KA+ clear is self sealing according to the PDS. No additional sealing needed especially for cab interiors IMHO.
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kcufstoidi said:
KA+ clear is self sealing according to the PDS. No additional sealing needed especially for cab interiors IMHO.
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DF.jsp?SITEID=SWOEM&lang=E&doctype=PDS&prodno=T75F557

If they both seal then I suspect one has a different tint?
 
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