Cabinet Interior Finishing

Bugsysiegals said:
Very nice work ... are you building these cabinets too?

For kitchen cabinets, I assume oil may not be the best choice to protect the wood?  Assuming the KA+ is the better choice, do you ever use oil underneath for the color or stain/dye instead for color underneath the clear?

Yes, I fabricate the casework. A link to last years Parade of Homes. We won a best kitchen. There are two video links on the builders home page, we did all the casework and some of the furniture on both of them. There is also a link to a photo gallery on the website. I got here a little late last year, both homes took about 14 weeks.
https://www.allabouthomedesign.com

I prefer stained/cleared cabinets over pigmented, I come from an area where most casework is stained and finished. Coming here the pigmented casework was foreign to me.

We're doing a card/flyer holder, it emulates the TV stand I made for the apartment I'm renting.

A few doors, some cabinets.

Link to a photo album.
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmiurVGB

Tom
 

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The TV stand I mentioned.

Tom
 

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Wow, that's really awesome work Tom, thanks for sharing!!

I too am used to wood rather than paint.  In fact, I spent ~$1,800 on 6 panel doors and didn't like the White door look so I tossed them and replaced with Oak 6 panel doors ... that really hurt but painted wood just isn't me.

 
[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] .. I've been watching some videos on finishing and found one which was saying Sayerlack with crosslinker is almost as good as conversion varnish.  Besides the fact Sayerlack is tinted and KA+ is not, is Sayerlack, perhaps only with crosslinker, meant for these heavier duty applications such as kitchen tables, around dishwasher, stove, etc.?
 
Bugsysiegals said:
[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] .. I've been watching some videos on finishing and found one which was saying Sayerlack with crosslinker is almost as good as conversion varnish.  Besides the fact Sayerlack is tinted and KA+ is not, is Sayerlack, perhaps only with crosslinker, meant for these heavier duty applications such as kitchen tables, around dishwasher, stove, etc.?

I use the cross linker on table tops and shelves. I feel it is overkill for vertical surfaces that do not get a lot of wear.

Tom
 
That laundry cabinet is a nice solution to a big problem.

Like the clever door bucks too. (Not to mention your finishing skills)
 
I noticed the Zinnser Bullseye Clear and Amber do not mention de-waxed shellac whereas the SealCoat does. I’ve not opened those two but suspect I shouldn’t waste my time if I’m going to spray KA+ or Enduro-Var as a clear?
 
Do you buy your own dewaxed flakes and mix or just use the Zinsser?  I’d read mixing your own is more fresh, lasts longer, and allows for adding of dyes for custom colors.
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Do you buy your own dewaxed flakes and mix or just use the Zinsser?  I’d read mixing your own is more fresh, lasts longer, and allows for adding of dyes for custom colors.

I use Seal Coat. I don't use it often, I end up throwing more away than using out of a gallon.

Tom
 
For future reference, what water based clear would look similar to GF Arm-R-Seal?  I think I could use that lighter color on my drill press table.
 
Bugsysiegals said:
For future reference, what water based clear would look similar to GF Arm-R-Seal?  I think I could use that lighter color on my drill press table.

Not certain, the clearest clear I use is Kim Aqua +.

To
 
Do you have any idea how many ounces it might take to spray a coat of clear finish over this cabinet which is 2' x 2' x 4'?  The reason I ask is because my spray gun has these containers (DeKups) you fill which then the liquid is sucked out of and destroyed.  They come in different sizes and I'm wondering whether the ones I have are large enough or not.
 
They claim I can't reuse my PPS liners, I've used them up to 8 times.

I'd plan 1 quart to complete the project with spray loss.

Tom
 
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