Cafe Table

[Overtime]

Here is a small square coffee table for two in the works.

Legs and aprons are solid Teak

It's a very simple design so far. No bead, flutes, inlays or anything snazzy, just teak with the edges slightly rounded.

corner to corner it's about 29" square.  With the top around 31 - 32 inches square.

The legs have a gentle taper on them. And I used a Leigh FMT instead of the domino  to get double tenons from the solid stock on the ends of the aprons.

 

[Overtime]

This is how I went about making the aprons.

I used my favorite jig material - MDO 1/2" double sided. I Prefer MDO because the paper surface and ply edges will outlast MDF in the long term. The surface remains slick for the router bases to slide smoothly on. ( And because I had just the perfect piece of MDO scrap piece )  ;D
I'll use MDF also.

  Made the curve line using a scrap piece of thin maple to use as a batton and sprung the line.  Cut on the band saw and finished to line using a spindle sander. Then smoothed by hand sanding.
The two counter sunk holes near the center are used to hold the stock by temp screwing into the back of the aprons.
   
The four outer c/sinks are for screwing the assembly down onto the sacrificial mdf board. Like a clamp.

The underside has some thin strips about 1/8" of maple to position and hold the apron in place snug.
And the Grex pinner and a little glue was perfect to get it together.

Apron in place now to secure for routing. ( yea it's already cut in this pic ) but it started out as a full width board. No pre cuts on the band saw.

The assembly is secured to the bench with clamps. Looks more complicated than it is.
The OF 1400 along with a copy ring and bit was used to make mutiple passes to cut the pattern in the solid teak ( looks like ply in the pic )

The copy ring offset measurments were calculated into the jig prior to cutting the jig pattern, so as to have the apron finish out as shown.

 

[Overtime]

The MFT and clamping, You gotta love it 

And a little sanding on the inside radius.

Sandpaper on a stick.

I'm using a little sanding jig / block I mentioned in another thread.
It's a thin piece of wood about 1/8" thick scrap maple again. Good spring and flex to it. Cut some strips of sheet sandpaper - spray some sticky glue on both sides of the wood and paper. And you got a flexible edge sander. When the paper is toasted just peal up and stick on some fresh.

In the second pic ( hard to see ) is the unique sanding dust and odor from the teak. Since teak ( good teak anyway ) is an oily wood, the dust is almost moist and forms clumps and clogs sandpaper faster than other woods. Machines very well. It's a real pleasure to work with. This teak is good but I have seen better - years ago.

The mortise and tenons were made a little loose fitting for the purpose of using MAS epoxy for glue.
First a coating of normally mixed epoxy to penetrate the wood joint, immediately followed by the same mix thickened with cabosill for a rock solid joint.