Car Polishing with Rotex 125?

[Acrobat]

Hi, I have read a few articles here regarding car polishing with a Rotex, but they seem to go heavily into detail of what waxes and finishes were used, but not what is required for the Rotex to accomplish this?
I have the 125 model and would like to know what accessories I would need. I gather a polishing pad, but what type? Seems there's a few to choose, confused? and is a sponge required for it as well or either do? Also is the sheepskin pad worthwhile for this? Or is it the last to be used after applying the finish?
Lastly I see Festool makes polishing agents, so I assume which one should I try? I have an 10yr old car and the paint is good but not great, so I'd like to try get a better finish than my usual (cheap) waxing, not concerned or fanatical just would like a nicer finish than currently. (Also I'm in New Zealand so I doubt whether we would have many specialised Nth American finishes down here).

Thanks

 

[woodshopdemos]

I have done more than my share of car polishing back before clear coat.  I would start with the Rotex in its gentler mode and use a buffing pad that they offer. Softer better than harder. I don't know their compounds. I would go to an automotive store and take a look at a full line such as Maguires. It doesn't sound like your car is in bad order so I would get the finer buffing liquid. You will find that the line goes from  very rough to fine. Start at the top            a see what will work. When you are ready, wash the car thoroughly...you don't want dust and dirt to be a part of your buffing. Do one panel at a time. Apply the compound manually spreading it over the area. Before it dries take the RO125 and move the compound around. Be aware that it will try to burn Thru  way area where you do not keep it moving AND watch out over the curves and ridges. If in doubt, do by hand. When done, it should look very shine with just streaks of polish here and there. wipe off by hand with towels. If you need another treatment, thenjust repeat. When you have it the way you want it, use a good paste wax and apply by hand. Polish by hand also. Yes you could put a lambswool bonnet on and buff out the wax, but if your compound course were enough, hand polishing is easy.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Acrobat,

I'm not sure if this attempt to take you to the results page of a simple search I ran on FOG will work, but here it is:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?action=search2

I entered the following search terms in the FOG search engine:
Rotex polish car vehicle

As you will quickly see, the RO sanders are excellent for polishing/waxing a vehicle.  I use my RO 125 for this task at least once per year on each vehicle in my family's fleet.  One of the "hits" is mine.

I have sheepskin pads and felt pads, but have yet to see any need to use either of them to polish/wax a car.  I plan to use these when doing the final polish of a newly applied finish, e.g. on a piece of furniture, or to polish out scratches in a piano finish.

For my vehicles, I rarely even use any polish containing any abrasive.  Use of a clay bar after washing and drying the car is a key step before polishing or waxing.  I usually go straight to waxing after using a clay bar to remove all the embedded road grit.  I live about 1/4 mile from an active RR track in NE Ohio where there is always lots of dirt and other crud on the roadways, and plenty of moisture to help make it stick to a car.  I rarely use a cleaner wax.  I prefer simple straight carnauba based waxes, although I have obtained excellent results regardless of the brand (including Zynol, Optima, Griot's Garage Best of Show liquid and Paint Sealant types, Turtle Wax[cleaner type], Meguiar's Yellow Number 26 and others I have somehow "inherited" from other family members) and whether liquid or paste type.   If I notice swirls in the sunlight, then I might use a very fine liquid machine polish, but this is rarely needed if the plain wax is applied with a Rotex in Rotex mode using a foam sponge pad.  I prefer use of an oversized pad because it provides a very soft edge that won't harm anything, and the extra diameter of a 7" to 8" H&L foam pad enables reaching the portion of the doors under the outside mirrors.

Dave R.

 

[Acrobat]

Thanks for the info guys. I popped in to my local festool dealer and he's gonna ask the more "experienced" rep his recommendations and tips too. He assured me he's been asked a few times but is unsure what the advice was. Be interesting on what the rep comes up with and advice on what felt/pads etc to get.
Re polishes: I've heard good things about macguires polishes so once I get the required pad/s for the  rotex, may try that out.
Thanks for your help.

 

[yeelep]

You could do a search on autopia.org. There you will find alot more information about using the rotex for car polishing/waxing.

Peter

 

[Steven in Iowa]

Pop into the following message board.  I learned a lot of good info when I bought my first black vehicle.  I use my RO150 all the time for detailing.  You will want to look at the various foam pads offered specifically for detailing.  DO NOT use sheepskin pads if you're not proficient with a buffer.  They generate a lot of heat and are the reason people say you can burn the paint off of your car.

Roadfly Detailing Board