Carvex 420 cannot cut straight - Problem Solved

[mike_aa]

Reading this got me thinking ???  Would it be beneficial to have an attachment where the jig saw could pivot slightly as it slides on the guide rail keeping the blade from binding?  I'm comparing this to a bandsaw that is used to cut through thicker material where a pivot point fence is used to compensate for blade drift.

Mike A.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I think it's more of a question of the right tool for the job. For straight cuts in thick material, the right tool is a track saw or table saw.

 

[glass1]

Its definitely worth the time to get festool blades and adjust the carbide blocks. Is the carvex smoother than the trion ie less vibration. Not that the trion vibrates too much but just wondering if it has less vibration ? Anybody have any side by side comparison ? thx in advance.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Its definitely worth the time to get festool blades and adjust the carbide blocks. Is the carvex smoother than the trion ie less vibration. Not that the trion vibrates too much but just wondering if it has less vibration ? Anybody have any side by side comparison ? thx in advance.

So, you got good results then and corrected the deflection issues?

 

[glass1]

Better yes. I still I am always disappointed with the jig saw. The festool is nicer than any that I have used to date but I find it difficult to get a perpendicular cut.

 

[fdeloncker]

I too have had many issues with my carvex making perpendicular cuts.

Today I attempted to use the circle jig for the first time and my cut wandered more than an 1/8th within 3" into the cut (on a massive radius btw). It burned up the blade (again...) and caused sparks to fly. I understand that the lever should point forward to 3, pull the blade back, tighten and finally loosen 1/4 turn. Todays cut was with a s75/4 fs blade.

I have watched many videos, asked the folks at the local rockler, when they were a vendor, but they had no clue. I spoke with a rep at demo a while back and he explained to me how to do it, but I am still not getting it or its my saw. He was making cuts in huge stock; something like 5" thick pine and getting good cuts.

[scared] HELP

 

[MGB]

^ Do you have your centering pin on the correct side of the circle cutter?

 

[fdeloncker]

At first I wasnt sure if it was on the correct side, but I noticed that others use the pin on the same side as the saw so I think that is the suggested way.?

After several attempts and many blades I realized the blade is not perpendicular to the base, therefore causing it to track inward or outward depending on the rotation I am traveling. I checked it with a quality square. I have it boxed up and am leaving to go drop it off at ups for service as soon as i finish this message. Sad, because I really need it this weekend for this project I am building.

[crying]

 

[lwillis]

I have the same issue.  My new Carvex PSB 420 EBQ won't cut a straight line, it always veers to the left.    I have burned several blades.  I've tried with and without the splinter guard.  I've made sure the blade guide is properly tightened (tighten all the way, then back off 1/4 turn, so that there's a slight amount of play).

I'm trying to cut 3/4" Mellamine, using a S75/2.5 blade, and the tracksaw guide.  But every cut drifts to the left.  I've checked the blade guide, and I don't see any gunk or bits stuck inside it.  I've tried every setting from 1 to 3.

Is there anything I can do besides return the saw?

 

[peter halle]

Festool doesn't recommend cutting 3/4" material with the Carvex on a rail as has been posted here prior.  If this is a normal thing for you then I would suggest returning the saw. 

 

[Gregor]

Festool doesn't recommend cutting 3/4" material with the Carvex on a rail as has been posted here prior.

As festool sells the ADT-PS 420 for the carvex, advertised with for using the PS on the guide rail and it, as you write, isn't suitable to cut

 

[Laminator]

My carvex has the same problem trying to use a guide rail.  I tried it when I first got the saw just for kicks because I never need to make perfect straight cuts with the carvex.  The cause of this is that the blade is not parallel to the center line of the saw.  You can check by turning the saw upside down and placing a precision straight edge against the side of the blade. 

 

[peter halle]

Correction. - Festool does not recommend over 20 mm workpiece thickness.  See page in owner's manual.

[attachimg=1]

Peter

 

[lwillis]

Hi Peter,

[Peter] "Festool doesn't recommend cutting 3/4" material with the Carvex on a rail as has been posted here prior"
[Peter] "Correction. - Festool does not recommend over 20 mm workpiece thickness.  See page in owner's manual."

(emphasis mine)

3/4" is not over 20mm, so I'm under the recommended limit.  (3/4" = 19.05mm)

And while I could make this particular cut with a different saw, I was intentionally using the Carvex to learn the saw and familiarize myself with it's operation on what should be a pretty straight-forward cut (no pun intended). I want to know whether this is just problematic thickness on a relatively soft material -- mellamine, or if my new saw has a defect.  Maybe the blade-holder assembly is misaligned.  If it can't cut mellamine straight, what can it cut straight?

I'm eventually going to need to cut a circular hole out of this same 3/4" mellamine.  If the Carvex can't cut a straight line w/o bending, it's not going to cut a circle properly either.

 

[grobkuschelig]

The FSG blades (75) are stated for a material thickness of up to 55mm.
With the long FSG blades I have cut 90mm straight.

I have the feeling that the „cautious 20mm limit“ is coming from the fear that people will expect the tool to deliver regardless of usecase. In my opinion this is the level of „stupidity“ the world moves to, with not thinking anymore.

Every tool has a sweet spot. If you want the tool to perform well outside of this, you need to „push the right buttons“ and listen/feel for the feedback of the tool.

If you need dead on straight cuts regardless, maybe ty the Mafell P1 with their special blade. It is often touted to be the bees knees.

Or spend a little time with the Carvex, try different speeds and settings and maybe achieve the same. As always, YMMV. Just my two cents.

If you really think the blade is not aligned right, send it in for service.
Sorry for not being more helpful. [emoji56]

 

[lwillis]

Regarding which blade to use:  I see on previous posts that there used to be a jigsaw blade guide: http://festoolusa.com/jigsaw-blades , but that's now a 'page-not-found'.  Is there an updated location for that information?

I'm currently using the S 75 / 2.5 blade, b/c Festool describes it as "The jigsaw blade is an excellent choice for fine cutting in a wide range of materials. Precise, clean cuts can be achieved in softwood, hardwood, melamine, veneered plywood, chipboard, soft plastics, ABS, HDPE and similar materials."  (https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/486963---s-752,525#Overview)

But I see in the manual that is says that one should only use an FSG blade with the guide rail, so maybe that's my issue.

 

[grobkuschelig]

For straight cuts, I would always recommend the most rigid blades possible.
I really like the FSGs. Have them in 75 and extra long.

Try those and see where it gets you.
There are also some similar Bosch blades available, but I have not tried those yet.

 

[lwillis]

Me: "...But I see in the manual that is says that one should only use an FSG blade with the guide rail, so maybe that's my issue."

Yes, that was it.  I switched to a "S 75/4 FSG" blade, and that worked much better.  Crisis averted.

Dear Festool, this really could be much clearer in the manual.  I did make a good faith effort to read the manual, both before I started and after I first encountered problems.

It does say (once) in the saw manual, page 16, in the instructions for the adaptation table:  "do not ex-ceed max. material thickness of 20 mm and always use cross-set saw blades (FSG)"  (emphasis added).

But, as a new user, I had no idea what an FSG blade is, it's not explained in the manual.  I thought FSG was just the Festool brand name for jigsaw blades (i.e. all Festool blades were FSG). 

So I looked thru your online blade guide:https://assets.festool.com/SiteColl...media_download/gb/p2010_broschjigsawbl_gb.pdf and picked a blades that were described as good for mellamine.  There's nothing in the blade guide that says which blades should NOT be used with the adaptation table or circle cutter.

You need a column or a footnote or something in the blade guide to tell people which festool blades work with which festool attachments.

 

[A-Team]

Just got a new 420 and the cuts are not at a 90 degree angle. Using the S 75/4 FSG blade free hand in 1 1/2 thick 2x4 pine. Amazed at the speed and power, but the cuts are 7 to 10 degrees off.

I have adjusted blade guide 1/4 turn off tight, pendulum at position 3, speed Auto. After seeing the videos of 4x4's being cut perfectly, I am disappointed.But maybe I'm doing something wrong...

 

[leecab]

A 3/4" deep  cut with a carvex riding on a track is too much to ask of it?. but send ithe tool back to service anyway?