Carvex 420 rip, wrong blade?

threesixright

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2017
Messages
655
HI All,

I kind of feel very stupid  [scared]. Was trying to rip a small piece (800 mm) with the Carvex 420. Undoable. Blade got very hot, saw some sparks, so stopped right away. Cross cutting: it cuts like a hot knife though butter. So I'm guessing I got the wrong blade  :-[

I used the S 75 / 4 FSG.

So my question is, what is the correct blade? Or did I do something else incredibly stupid (I checked the tight screw, and had it to roughest settings, slowest speed)?

Thanks!
 
What type of wood are you ripping and how thick is it?

I'd start with either the S 75/4FSG or the S 75/4 blades. Speed 4-5 and pendulum 2-3 depending upon the desired finish. None of these are cast in stone, just adjust the settings until it feels right.

The sparks would tell me the blade guides are adjusted too tight. You say the blade got very hot but did it turn blue? If so, was it in the upper section of the blade close to the tang?

Here's a photo of a couple of S 75/4FSG blades that had the blade guides too tight. Note the blued teeth and the burned paint along the upper tang end of the blade.

[attachimg=1]
 

Attachments

  • 1615.JPG
    1615.JPG
    449.6 KB · Views: 453
@cheese

Thanks!

For sure it was over tightened.  That’s solved.

Now I’m just with the speed issue. I bought some scrap wood (it’s for building a small ramp). I don’t care about the cut-lines.

It’s ~ 55 mm thick.

The cut speed is whats the problem. Cross goes super fast (as expected) but with the grain, there is virtually no speed.

Looked at the festool blades, but they don’t mention ripping. Also looked at Bosch same.

Just tried “s 74/4”. Doesn’t seem to make any difference either.  The FSG I already tried.

:-(

Sent from my X using Tapatalk
 
I could be wrong but generally a jigsaw is used for curves and the like so I don't think there are specific cross-cutting or ripping blades as this makes no sense for the usual applications.
 
Sanderxpander said:
I could be wrong but generally a jigsaw is used for curves and the like so I don't think there are specific cross-cutting or ripping blades as this makes no sense for the usual applications.

Yeah I agree, but either way. I can not even cut 50 mm (following the grain). So definitely something is wrong? Cross its fine (as said)!

It's not that it moves slowly, but it hardly moves at all. Like 1 mm per 1-2 seconds.
 
I've found the festool blades to be not optimal for ripping, and tend to stick with Bosch for that.
 
Try dialing in the max on the pendulum setting and see if that helps. Adding a lot of pendulum action always makes it easier to cut wood however, the down side is the quality of the cut.
 
You should be able to rip with the saw - I have done so with a variety of blades. The brand of blade does not matter as they are all made to the same tooth patterns. You have two types of blades - one with a set and one without. The one with a set will cut faster and leave a rougher surface. The one without will cut smoother and slower. The pendulum action can also help speed things along.
 
Thanks all.

[member=37411]ear3[/member] which blades you use(d) from Bosch?

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] tried that, was hardly improving  [sad]
 
I’m at a loss...I’ve never had a problem with ripping wood, but then again if it’s a long section I’ll use the bandsaw, the table saw or the TSC 55. 

As ScotF said, there are really only 2 styles of blades available.

Perhaps your pendulum function isn’t working properly? In the past when I didn’t engage the pendulum action, the jig saw was almost impossible to move forward. You could push as hard as you wanted but the movement was extremely slow.
 
Cheese said:
I’m at a loss...I’ve never had a problem with ripping wood, but then again if it’s a long section I’ll use the bandsaw, the table saw or the TSC 55. 

As ScotF said, there are really only 2 styles of blades available.

Perhaps your pendulum function isn’t working properly? In the past when I didn’t engage the pendulum action, the jig saw was almost impossible to move forward. You could push as hard as you wanted but the movement was extremely slow.

Hi Cheese, thanks. I should make a video.

I think the pendulum works fine. Cross it also works great (=fast).  This rip was less than a meter long, but I didn't even get to cut 50 mm [mad]. I simply gave up.

I do understand there are better tools for this, but:
a) I don't have them
b) I'm rebuilding my house and don't have a workshop (yet) so its a bit of improv (on the floor)

I do have a TS 55, but I was not comfortable to get the stabile and save (not a true cowboy here!  [tongue]). I needed to cut it quickly and there was no need for true precision (don't care about the drought cut). So CARVEX seemed the obvious available choice.

Now, I'm just intrigued why it cuts that bad.

 
Hi!

If you have the means, yes, please make a video.

The Carvex should have absolutely no problem making such a cut, and definitely not at the highest pendulum setting. If it does struggle with it, theres a problem (Carvex should work up to 100mm cutting depth in wood ...)

Kind regards,
Oliver

 
six-point socket II said:
Hi!

If you have the means, yes, please make a video.

The Carvex should have absolutely no problem making such a cut, and definitely not at the highest pendulum setting. If it does struggle with it, theres a problem (Carvex should work up to 100mm cutting depth in wood ...)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Hi Oliver, thanks. I will make a video. Its was not even close to 100mm depth, did had a a 15 degree tilt, but that couldn't be it, could it [huh]? And as you said, I would expect, it should work (not talking wetter it's the best solution or not).
 
As long as the baseplate is properly supported I don't see any problem/ limitation that would be caused by an angled cut in this scenario.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Back
Top