Case for buying OF 1400

[Sean7a]

Sean and George,

Absolutely the best way to appreciate the value of the OF 1400 is to try one with as many accessories as possible. I have owned an OF 1400 since they became available in the USA and I thought I knew all the benefits. Then last Thursday and Friday (11 and 12 Nov) I participated in the Advanced Router class in Henderson, NV. For sure I learned much more about all my Festool routers.

One thing I have always done with my OF 1400 you should try during a demo is using a 36mm AS hose instead of a 27mm AS hose. Sure, some jobs with smaller bits only create dust, handled well with a 27mm hose. However, larger bits also create chips. Chips can and do clog the 27mm hose.

My approach was to get used to dealing with the larger 36mm hose routinely. By now it is second nature and even when I am using maximum size bits on the OF 1400 I have not had a clog. The best way to see for yourself is to try both size hose with the same bit.

Agreed, that hose is definitely a game changer.  Makes a significant difference.

 

[BigHonu]

Hello fellow Festool owners!

I am a newer woodworker and have been setting up my shop with careful research and planning.  I have been using the TS 75, guide rails and MFT, producing some very satisfactory results.  I am now in the market for an all around router and am seriously considering the OF 1400.  Since I chose the plunge saw and MFT over a table saw, the router has to perform some table saw tasks the TS 75 comes up short on, such as making dadoes, rabbets and grooves.  My issue is the cost.  At $470, the router is significantly more expensive than others I am considering at $200 - $250.  I would appreciate input from anyone who was in this position before and what they decided to do and how they are faring now.  Thanks in advance.

George

Hi George,

I'm in a very similar position.  Got a sander, then the Midi, then the TS55.  Very next purchase was  the OF1400.  As a hobbyist with a young family, I realized how scarce free time is and how important actual work time was.  Not the time setting up or cleaning up, but the actual time I'm working.  Less time setting up and less time cleaning up means more working time.  Getting projects finished earlier means more free time for the family.

Once I realized how effective and efficient the Festool system is, the price becomes more easily justifiable.  Heck, even the way the systainers nest together and get stored makes taking things out and putting stuff away much easier!

 

[Attn2Detail]

THanks for all the input.  I will be acquiring the 1400 very soon and will keep you posted.  I will be buying a rabetting bit for the router.  SHould I buy Festool or can anyone recommend a decent bit?

 

[ccarrolladams]

THanks for all the input.  I will be acquiring the 1400 very soon and will keep you posted.  I will be buying a rabetting bit for the router.  SHould I buy Festool or can anyone recommend a decent bit?

I own hundreds of router bits and drills, made by virtually all the manufacturers in business since 1947. A huge advantage to the OF 1400 is that it comes with 8mm as well as 1/4 and 1/2" collets.

Festool does make an excellent Rabbet bit with an 8mm shank, cat 491 022. The dia is 31.7mm and it has a ball bearing guide roller. Probably it is because I started using routers so long ago that guide bearings were not popular (maybe not even invented) I have always preferred to either use an edge guide or the guide rail plate.

Generally I like to make rabbets and dadoes in two passes so the fit is exact. Therefore my preference is still Festool with 8mm shanks, since I see no advantage to 1/2" shanks on small bits. Here are the dado and rabbet bits I currently use a lot. Please note these are all high speed steel spiral cut:

490 946 is 10mm dia, which is enough undersized I can make 1/2" or 12mm dadoes exactly

490 949 is 14mm dia, which is enough undersized I can make 3/4" or 18/19mm dadoes exactly, given so-called 3/4" ply is that thickness

490 951 is 20mm dia, which is more than enough I can use it with an edge guide or guide rail to rabbet 1/4"  1/2" or 3/4"

All of these bits can be sharpened many, many times.

You really need to use both straight and spiral cut to decide which works best for you in a particular application. Personally I have yet to dado or rabbet any material where I felt a straight cut bit was more effective. Needless to say I was a very happy router user way back when spiral cut bits became available.

 

[grobin]

IMHO Festool and Freud are the best although so far I have 1 Infinity and 2 LV and they seem to be pretty good.  I have had poor luck with CMS and Woodcraft.  Rockler seem OK but appear to need sharpening pretty frequently.   To be fair I have mostly been routing hard maple and lyptus along with a little zebra wood, Osage orange, and a trial with lignum vitæ.  The rest has been in cheap pine, teak, mahogany, and some walnut and hickory.  Those all go well.  Probably pretty much any bit will work if you are routing softwoods or easy hardwoods.  The difficult hardwoods and patterned woods (mostly SA exotics) dull bits fast.  Carbide is worth the extra money and solid carbide worth the premium although not everyone can sharpen carbide satisfactorily.

 

[mouppe]

THanks for all the input.  I will be acquiring the 1400 very soon and will keep you posted.  I will be buying a rabetting bit for the router.  SHould I buy Festool or can anyone recommend a decent bit?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-32-524-8-Inch-Rabbeting-Bearing/dp/B0000225ZP

This is the rabbet bit set that I use. Very satisfied with it.
Richard.