dpetrzelka
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2014
- Messages
- 165
Cedar Bee hives - TS55, MFT/3, Domino
- Thread starter dpetrzelka
- Start date
dpetrzelka
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2014
- Messages
- 165
Thanks Crox -
When doing through dominos I do cut them separately - for several reasons.
First is plunge depth - to be sure I get an appropriate depth it works best to cut the two mortises individually - many time I couldn't cut the full depth I'd like for a 5mmx30mm domino in one shot.
Second, for the 5mm dominos as used on these hives, I've heard that the bit flares just enough at its base that when plunging full depth it can cause the outside mortise to be flared enough to show a slight gap after glue-up.
Last is the idea that I can get much more accurate joinery using the domino to set all mortise placement. If I were to clamp up and cut the through mortises at the same time, I'd be relying on a very accurate clamp-up to get the best finished piece.
Every way I look at it, I'll get the best results cutting each domino mortise separately.
When doing through dominos I do cut them separately - for several reasons.
First is plunge depth - to be sure I get an appropriate depth it works best to cut the two mortises individually - many time I couldn't cut the full depth I'd like for a 5mmx30mm domino in one shot.
Second, for the 5mm dominos as used on these hives, I've heard that the bit flares just enough at its base that when plunging full depth it can cause the outside mortise to be flared enough to show a slight gap after glue-up.
Last is the idea that I can get much more accurate joinery using the domino to set all mortise placement. If I were to clamp up and cut the through mortises at the same time, I'd be relying on a very accurate clamp-up to get the best finished piece.
Every way I look at it, I'll get the best results cutting each domino mortise separately.
Looks great!
Very tempted by the Surfix kit. How have you found it to use? Did you just use one coat? I'm a little put off by the sponges which appear to be disposable with each coat - have read the tin only keeps it ok for 24hrs. How does it compare to other oil finishes - I use Liberon Finishing oil a lot.
Thanks!
Very tempted by the Surfix kit. How have you found it to use? Did you just use one coat? I'm a little put off by the sponges which appear to be disposable with each coat - have read the tin only keeps it ok for 24hrs. How does it compare to other oil finishes - I use Liberon Finishing oil a lot.
Thanks!
dpetrzelka
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2014
- Messages
- 165
Festivus - I must admit, I was a little skeptical of the Surfix kit when I fist saw them - but it looked like the outdoor oil would give me both the protection and look I wanted for these hives, so I went for it. And the Surfix kit worked very well.
Most of the reviews talk about the benefit of using the Surfix applicator on large horizontal flat surfaces, but it had no trouble with the small boxes of the hive. I clamped a 1x6 (or 8) to the surface of the MFT, and left it overhanging to side about 10-12" - I was then able to hang a hive body off of the board, quickly wipe oil on the top surface, roll the box 90 degrees, oil the side side and so on. Very quick work.
These were simple cedar 1x8's from HD - so I had a little more sanding to do than if I had dressed the stock here in my shop. I ran through grits 100, 120, 180 and then applied the oil. 180, 220 and the green and white vlies (fleece) come in the kit. Working the oil in the with green vlies and the ETS150 is so quick and easy - much quicker than any hand sanding/rubbing I've had to do before.
The surfix bulb fits my hand pretty well, and gives good control of pressure, and application. The corner of the applicator sponge worked for getting into most of the recessed handles, only a very few required follow up with the one rag I used for the whole project. If you have very small hands the Sufix bulbs may be a little awkward - but if it fits your hand you're in business. Just the reduction in mess of pouring oil into a hand held container, or retuning to the can to refresh your oil rag is a time and mess saver. I takes a few squirts to get the sponge loaded with oil, and after a few passes you'll tune into how often/how much oil to add as you go.
The sponges hold up much better than you'd think. For indoor finishes I could see not wanting to use a sponge that had sat in the tin for more than 24 hours - as some sections around the perimeter will have started to firm up. That said, I used only one sponge in three different oiling sessions over three days with no issues. ( 12 hive bodies, 3 roofs, 3 screen bottom boards )
I do not use many outdoor oil finishes - for interior work I have always loved boiled linseed, tung oil or Tru-oil. I really wanted the look of boiled linseed in a finish that would provide much better mold and uv protection - thats what outdoor Surfix is supposed to offer. The outdoor oil seems to penetrate really well - it does not appear to be a very heavy build oil.
If you don't need another systainer (who doesn't) and you already have a full lineup of abrasives for your 150/125 you could easily just pick up the applicator and Surfix bulbs, as well as the green vlies. Those are what really brought the process together for me. Working in the oil with the vlies is an effortless, yet critical step for good penetration and even finish. The while vlie weren't as critical for this outdoor application, but the green ones definitely are.
Many who have seen these hives in person have commented that they look like furniture, and what a shame that I'm putting them outside. So in that regard it worked very well.
I shot some stop motion video of the fishing process that I can try to post soon.
Most of the reviews talk about the benefit of using the Surfix applicator on large horizontal flat surfaces, but it had no trouble with the small boxes of the hive. I clamped a 1x6 (or 8) to the surface of the MFT, and left it overhanging to side about 10-12" - I was then able to hang a hive body off of the board, quickly wipe oil on the top surface, roll the box 90 degrees, oil the side side and so on. Very quick work.
These were simple cedar 1x8's from HD - so I had a little more sanding to do than if I had dressed the stock here in my shop. I ran through grits 100, 120, 180 and then applied the oil. 180, 220 and the green and white vlies (fleece) come in the kit. Working the oil in the with green vlies and the ETS150 is so quick and easy - much quicker than any hand sanding/rubbing I've had to do before.
The surfix bulb fits my hand pretty well, and gives good control of pressure, and application. The corner of the applicator sponge worked for getting into most of the recessed handles, only a very few required follow up with the one rag I used for the whole project. If you have very small hands the Sufix bulbs may be a little awkward - but if it fits your hand you're in business. Just the reduction in mess of pouring oil into a hand held container, or retuning to the can to refresh your oil rag is a time and mess saver. I takes a few squirts to get the sponge loaded with oil, and after a few passes you'll tune into how often/how much oil to add as you go.
The sponges hold up much better than you'd think. For indoor finishes I could see not wanting to use a sponge that had sat in the tin for more than 24 hours - as some sections around the perimeter will have started to firm up. That said, I used only one sponge in three different oiling sessions over three days with no issues. ( 12 hive bodies, 3 roofs, 3 screen bottom boards )
I do not use many outdoor oil finishes - for interior work I have always loved boiled linseed, tung oil or Tru-oil. I really wanted the look of boiled linseed in a finish that would provide much better mold and uv protection - thats what outdoor Surfix is supposed to offer. The outdoor oil seems to penetrate really well - it does not appear to be a very heavy build oil.
If you don't need another systainer (who doesn't) and you already have a full lineup of abrasives for your 150/125 you could easily just pick up the applicator and Surfix bulbs, as well as the green vlies. Those are what really brought the process together for me. Working in the oil with the vlies is an effortless, yet critical step for good penetration and even finish. The while vlie weren't as critical for this outdoor application, but the green ones definitely are.
Many who have seen these hives in person have commented that they look like furniture, and what a shame that I'm putting them outside. So in that regard it worked very well.
I shot some stop motion video of the fishing process that I can try to post soon.
festivus said:
dpetrzelka
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2014
- Messages
- 165
Dovetail65 - great question. I see that Festool has suggested it could be applicable to a deck, but I have't used in enough to vouch for its long term viability on flooring.
Dovetail65 said:
Carl Prentiss
Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 365
Thanks for sharing this Daniel.
dpetrzelka
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2014
- Messages
- 165
I've created a blog for the Hive Project.
For anyone interested in beekeeping you can check it out here:
The Hive Project
Facebook - The Hive Project
For anyone interested in beekeeping you can check it out here:
The Hive Project
Facebook - The Hive Project
Similar threads
