ceiling molding to build in options

[duburban]

So heres the skinny:

This is a mudroom/ entry with the front door to outside being on your left and the main house door being on your right. I'm looking at doing a simple 3/4 ish by 3/4 ish cove molding to cover the breadboard around the room. Where it gets tricky is how it terminates into a built in that will be on the luan wall facing you. The built in will start on a concrete base roughly 20" of the ground. The concrete base will look like a simple bench and provide space for boots and shoes underneath. The cabinet will then start and go to the ceiling or close to depending on the best option. Cabinet is cherry. Walls will be american clay. Beadboard and molding will be painted.

Cabinet will be 2 drawers above the concrete base, and 2 sets of double inset doors to provide two main storage bays.

Should I run a 1x trim on the adjacent walls up against the cabinet to provide a termination for the cove on the ceiling?

What say you?

Sorry my picture is off rotation. I've had this problem before, can i fix this?

 

[tiralie]

So heres the skinny:

This is a mudroom/ entry with the front door to outside being on your left and the main house door being on your right. I'm looking at doing a simple 3/4 ish by 3/4 ish cove molding to cover the breadboard around the room.

Do you mean a 1" cove in all the corners (top and sides) to cover the seam where the bead board meets at right angles?

Where it gets tricky is how it terminates into a built in that will be on the luan wall facing you. The built in will start on a concrete base roughly 20" of the ground. The concrete base will look like a simple bench and provide space for boots and shoes underneath.

What style (shaker, colonial etc.) is the cabinet?

The cabinet will then start and go to the ceiling or close to depending on the best option. Cabinet is cherry.

If you design it to go to the ceiling is there a crown on the cabinet or does the cabinet frame extend to the ceiling?

Walls will be American clay.

Is this (American Clay) the wall color or some kind of texture ?

Should I run a 1x trim on the adjacent walls up against the cabinet to provide a termination for the cove on the ceiling?

Does the cabinet fit wall to wall or is there space on either side. A drawing would help here.

 

[duburban]

Sometimes I'm too impatient to organize my thoughts before posting.

Yes, its a 1" cove.

Planning to build FF of cabinet tight to walls and ceiling, no plan of crown yet. Will consider any option that will enhance cab and work with cove.

Cabinet will be shaker

The wall will be plastered american clay, "ginger root" is the color.

Because the cove molding will be painted its hard to imagine it running onto the top FF rail. Perhaps i could make the top rail 3" instead of 2" to accept the painted cove. Or I'll terminate the cove to at the FF.

 

[tiralie]

Yes, its a 1" cove.

Here are my comments.
These are all highly subjective so please take them for what you've paid for them which is nothing. I working on some of my own design problems (kitchen island) to which this is a very pleasant diversion.

If I could take the bead board off the ceiling I would. since you are going to plaster the walls anyway you could just do the ceiling and avoid the issue with the cove.

If you must keep it I would turn the orientation so it ran the length of the room rather than the width.
If you can't turn it around, so be it. Not the end of the world.

Keeping the bead board, I would put bedmolding around the room rather than the 1" cove. 1" cove is not substantial enough for the room and will look like it's only real purpose is to cover the edge where the bead board meets the wall.

I would add a short soffit 4-6 inches in height. I would build the soffit just high (tall) enough so it left a reveal below the bottom of the bedmold. This will solve the problem of having to terminate the bedmold into the top of the cherry cabinet which would look strange. I would paint the bedmold white and the reveal ginger root.

I would build soffit deep enough so the cabinet fit under that and cap the cabinet with a crown. The crown can either extend slightly past the soffit edge creating a lip with a terminating crown (Cyma recta) or under the soffit Cove with a supporting (cove, Cyma reversa or bedmold) crown. My preference on shaker style is to use a cove crown as it is closer to the esthetic but cherry is a little more formal.

Planning to build FF of cabinet tight to walls and ceiling, no plan of crown yet. Will consider any option that will enhance cab and work with cove.
Cabinet will be shaker

I would not add a 1x to the edge of the cabinet but build it to the edge and scribe the rail to the wall. This will increase time (costs) though. Shaker design is simple any additional vertical shadow lines will look odd and out of place.

The wall will be plastered american clay, "ginger root" is the color.

If you are going to finish the cabinet in the traditionally, that color combination sounds like it will really make the cabinet pop.

It will be interesting to see how you eventually solve this. Again these are my (not so humble) opinions and not meant to be anything else. [big grin]

Tim

 

[duburban]

Thanks for the ideas Tim!

It would be great if this forum had a digital sketch pad we could lay out simple concepts on.

How far would the soffit come off the wall in the rest of the room? I understand it would drop down enough for the right reveal from the bed mold, and the other dimension?

Your right I should have run the board the other way and scarf jointed the sheets at 8' but I chose the other way to take advantage of the factory seams. Project is a freebie for mom and pop so I'm trying to make it nice, but also get back to work!

 

[tiralie]

How far would the soffit come off the wall in the rest of the room? I understand it would drop down enough for the right reveal from the bed mold, and the other dimension?

The soffit "should" project as far as the cabinet plus the crown projection and a reveal to your liking. If you are using a supporting or cove molding an inch or inch and half looks good to my eye but you may like something else. Most moulding manufactures give you the projection so you add that to the width of the cabinet plus the soffit reveal.
When I referred to building a soffit I only meant building one over the cabinet. I had not thought of building one around the room as that would lead to making the  room look smaller and quite "stuffy".

Your right I should have run the board the other way and scarf jointed the sheets at 8' but I chose the other way to take advantage of the factory seams. Project is a freebie for mom and pop so I'm trying to make it nice, but also get back to work!

My parents have given up on me making or installing anything of significance as I refuse to make any design concessions, and demand only the best materials. My father, being born before me and having much more wisdom saves his money and keeps his blood pressure at a reasonable level by never hiring me to do any of the projects my mother would like done. After gathering enough information from me as to how much it might cost and the disruption if may cause to their lives, he has more than enough ammunition to ward off any impulses my mother may have.  [wink]
Tim

 

[tiralie]

duburban
Any progress on this project? Just curious how it turned out.
Tim

 

[duburban]

Hey, I'm actually about to finish it in the next couple days. I'm not doing anything too wild, i'm going to go ahead with a 1x rabbeted onto the FF with a 1/4 or 1/2 reveal and run the moulding ontop of that like we discussed.

heres the current but without the lee valley knobs i just put on.

 

[duburban]

another

 

[tiralie]

Well that sure looks a hell of a lot better [big grin] than it did.
Did you make the cabinets?
Tim

 

[duburban]

yeah i do it all. the base for the cabs in concrete. helps give it some mass while still providing some shoe room underneath. first time using blum soft closes, nice!! local cherry, resawed some panels first but it was a little too squirrelly for an amateur like me.

 

[tiralie]

yeah i do it all. the base for the cabs in concrete. helps give it some mass while still providing some shoe room underneath. first time using blum soft closes, nice!! local cherry, resawed some panels first but it was a little too squirrelly for an amateur like me.

Those cabinets look great!
The base looks good too. Good solution for a mud room.
Just curious why you chose concrete over welded steel or aluminum. Aluminum would probably react with salt used in the winter, but a welded steel frame painted would work too.

I like the bead. Did you apply the bead or jack miter?
Tim

 

[duburban]

concrete is one of my tricks where metal is not something i work with. also concrete for me was more grounding to make the cabinet not look like its floating.

i applied the bead but would never do it again if i can avoid it. using contractor grade tools for this was a joke so i'm going to learn jack miters for tighter tolerances.

tricks for cutting jack miters without a cabinet saw??

i'm going to american clay plaster tomorrow and shoot up some trim soon. whats a good base profile that would fit with the room? don't know enough about trim nuances to feel confident pairing a profile.

 

[tiralie]

tricks for cutting jack miters without a cabinet saw??

Buy the Kreg  flat bottomed chamfer bit and make your own jig. There is one on http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/jack_miter_jig.htmlGary Katz's site. Before Kreg came out with their system, Brice published a great article on making jack miters. Not sure where it is on this site though.
There is a good discussion on JLC if you are a member.

i'm going to american clay plaster tomorrow and shoot up some trim soon. whats a good base profile that would fit with the room? don't know enough about trim nuances to feel confident pairing a profile.

A simple cove might work. If you look at the http://www.windsorone.com/moldings/craftsman/default.aspWindsor One gallery site you might get some other ideas.
Hope that helps.
Tim

 

[duburban]

I remember reading Brice's article a long time ago. When it got to grinding the router bit down i kind of lost interest. Thanks for talking it through with me Tim!