Certainly Not an LR 32 Setup but still useful for shelf pins

[peter halle]

I know that all of you think that if I cut myself I will bleed green.  I will.  However even I have to evaluate tool purchases versus usage versus cost versus... at times.

I have had the absolute pleasure of using the Festool LR32 system at the Training classes and have watched probably every video produced on the system.  One day I will own one.  I already have an OF1400, and a guide rail with holes.  So I am down to the kit.

I have had several other brands of jigs for drilling shelf pins in the past and have used them with varying success.  I hate them.

I got one of the Woodpecker Shelf Pin Jigs for Christmas along with a set up router bushings/guides and a Festool 5 mm router bit.  I had the opportunity last week to do an eight foot tall, 32 inch wide, 39 inch deep shelf cabinet for a garage last week and I used this jig to do the holes.  Because of the design of this jig and my desire to have three sets of holes in each side support which were attached to the walls I had to rip the side supports in half and then drill holes, then domino back together.

All in all, this tool does not readily compare to the LR32 except that it allows you to use guide bushings and the fabulous Festool bit to drill holes that are evenly spaced.  The Festool Lr32 would have allowed me to get this done in half the time and allowed me much more flexibility.  But f you are in need for a shelf pin system and aren't ready to get the LR32, or your needs are simpler, you might want to take a look.

Woodpeckers Shelf Pin Jig

Peter

 

[builderbob]

I got one of the Woodpecker Shelf Pin Jigs for Christmas along with a set up router bushings/guides and a Festool 5 mm router bit.  I had the opportunity last week to do an eight foot tall, 32 inch wide, 39 inch deep shelf cabinet for a garage last week and I used this jig to do the holes.  Because of the design of this jig and my desire to have three sets of holes in each side support which were attached to the walls I had to rip the side supports in half and then drill holes, then domino back together.

Peter, if I'm understanding you correctly, this jig does not allow to just freely drill in the middle of a space?  It needs to be indexed off an edge?  It seems that if you index off the top (or bottom) of your carcass from the edges, you can then find a mid point, drill one hole (at the same height as the other top holes and set your indexing pin.  That should give you the same spacing down from the top (or up from the bottom).  Your only task is to keep the jig straight.  I'm guessing if you drill the bottom hole, you could then also put one of the indexing pins in and that should keep it from swinging.  

Without having it in front of me, it's tough to tell, but seems smart anyway!   [tongue]

Bob

 

[Sparktrician]

Several years ago I saw Norm Abrams using a line boring jig on the New Yankee Workshop, but had a heck of a time finding out who made it.  Well, about six years ago, I managed to find out that it was the Pro-Bore made by MEG Products in Hamilton Square, NJ.  While I liked that model, I wound up buying the Econo-Bore at less than half the price.  It has served me well in company with my P-C 7529 with a 5/8" guide bushing and a 5mm brad-point bit.  I had considered several jigs that could be used with a portable drill, but didn't like that there was too much opportunity to be out of perpendicular to the material being drilled, which is eliminated with the use of a plunge router.  I like the LR-32 system, having used one at Festool training, but the system has a different relative start point, compared to the MEG system.  No right or wrong; just different. 

[smile]

 

[RONWEN]

I got one of the Woodpecker Shelf Pin Jigs for Christmas along with a set up router bushings/guides and a Festool 5 mm router bit.  I had the opportunity last week to do an eight foot tall, 32 inch wide, 39 inch deep shelf cabinet for a garage last week and I used this jig to do the holes.  Because of the design of this jig and my desire to have three sets of holes in each side support which were attached to the walls I had to rip the side supports in half and then drill holes, then domino back together.

Peter, if I'm understanding you correctly, this jig does not allow to just freely drill in the middle of a space?  It needs to be indexed off an edge?  It seems that if you index off the top (or bottom) of your carcass from the edges, you can then find a mid point, drill one hole (at the same height as the other top holes and set your indexing pin.  That should give you the same spacing down from the top (or up from the bottom).  Your only task is to keep the jig straight.  I'm guessing if you drill the bottom hole, you could then also put one of the indexing pins in and that should keep it from swinging.  

Without having it in front of me, it's tough to tell, but seems smart anyway!   [tongue]

Bob

Their older version allows (requires) that you adjust the pin set back distance.  http://www.woodpeck.com/shelfpinjig.html#1522