Challenges and questions about large cabinets with floor to ceiling fronts (8’)

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Jul 6, 2020
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Hi,

I am building a series of cabinets with very large, floor to ceiling painted MDF doors.

I am done with one and it was a pain (love the result though). I always underestimate the challenges related to the size of the project. 3 more to go and they only get bigger (in terms of width). I need input on two things:

1) I used 3/4 MDF for the fronts and it starts to feel flimsy at this size (2400mm heigh). In addition, I got some bow in the door that I mostly fixed with a panel straightener. For both reasons, I am considering 7/8” or 1” MDF for the fronts. What thickness do others use for very large fronts?

2) Moving to thicker materials, of course, adds weight and therefore challenges. Would ultra light MDF be an option in this case? Never used it. My concern would be that the edges are less resistent. I am also using an integrated (router) handle and I am not sure how well that works with ultra light MDF.
 
I'd offer the suggestion that you consider using MDO rather than MDF for better life long-term for the doors, not to mention providing a better surface for finishes.  [smile]
 
i recently re-faced my kitchen cabinets with all new doors and drawer fronts. On the tall cabinets, I noticed that there were handprints about 1/3 the way down.  Apparently, I made a practice of opening the doors with handles and closing them by touching the woodwork. 

So I established a fixed shelf at the location where my handprints showed that I was closing the doors, and made an upper and lower door.  Each had its handle near the height of the fixed shelf where I split the one door into two.

It made an easy and effective fix. It required 4 hinges where there previously had been 3.  It required 2 handles where there had previously been one.  Several months after completion, I am calling this change “satisfactory”.

Would that work for you?  I left a 1/4” gap between doors.  That gap is below eye level and it all looks very intentional.
 
I haven't used MDO but my workshop buddy does. Is MDO dimensionally more stable than MDF? I can't really use integrated (routed) handles with MDO though...

Sparktrician said:
I'd offer the suggestion that you consider using MDO rather than MDF for better life long-term for the doors, not to mention providing a better surface for finishes.  [smile]
 
GregorHochschild said:
I haven't used MDO but my workshop buddy does. Is MDO dimensionally more stable than MDF? I can't really use integrated (routed) handles with MDO though...

Sparktrician said:
I'd offer the suggestion that you consider using MDO rather than MDF for better life long-term for the doors, not to mention providing a better surface for finishes.  [smile]

It's not so much the dimensional stability as it is that the hardwood veneer will be more resistant to dings and cracking long-term, and will look nicer, as well, when finished off right. 
 
With most base cabinets, I integrate the toe kick with the cabinet.  But with a full height cabinet, I would make the toe kick separate, to be installed and leveled first.

This, because as you are tipping the cabinet to vertical, you will have a diagonal height greater than the 8’ you are talking about.  The independent toe kick, along with the allowance for crown molding, eliminates that issue.
 
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