Chisel choice ?

[Carl Prentiss]

OK.....if you were going to get PMV-11 chisels and you didn't want to spend the money on a set, what size would you buy first?
I am a sucker for the good steels, so I may go that route, but have not made up my mind yet.

Trust me.....I am always in the FOG now that I got bit by the festy flea and have a constant fever  [eek]

Marcus

3/8" or the metric equivalent would be my first choice.

Jack

+1

 

[otis04]

If you are looking for top quality made in America, Lie-Nielsen is very hard to beat.  Highly recomended.

 

[dpetrzelka]

At the top of my list would be the Veritas PMV-11 from Lee Valley - that steel have performed very well on both my Veritas LA Block, and LA Jack. Do note that those are a hybrid socket-style chisel - as with many things Veritas, it looks traditional, but is a new take on things. This setup provides the benefits of both a flat sided tang and the shoulder supper of the socket. These should last forever.

For a great set of chisels, at the more budget conscious end, look at Narex. I found that they reach their peak after several sharpenings, it may have been that I was still refining the geometry, or perhaps the tempering on the outer layer effected things. But once taken through a full wet stone or lapping film honing these work wonderfully. Fine Woodworking rated them best value in Western style chisels back in 2008. The full handles provide great grip and handling.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/article/bench-chisels.aspx

I picked up the Narex Boxed 6-Piece Bench Chisel Set, from Highland.

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

I picked up a set of these MHG (made in Germany) chisels a while back. They are well made and come with a wooden box case. Good deal, I think. Sharpen nicely.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/1979/chisels-and-gouges

 

[SittingElf]

I picked up a set of these MHG (made in Germany) chisels a while back. They are well made and come with a wooden box case. Good deal, I think. Sharpen nicely.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/1979/chisels-and-gouges

I just ordered a set of the MHG's from my dealer in Germany!  The big advantage to the MGH's is that they can be sharpened all the way down to the nubs, whereas a lot of other high end chisels only have less than an inch of quality steel.

Cheers,

Frank

 

[SMJoinery]

Chisels are like pencils...hard or soft there at their best when sharp and in the right hands can produce beautiful work.

 

[FOGNewbie]

If you are looking for top quality made in America, Lie-Nielsen is very hard to beat.  Highly recomended.

Add me to the Lie Niesen list. I like the socket design. I can change from a normal handle to a paring handle(long) with a couple of taps on the work bench. One chisel is really two. I also like that Lie-Nielsen also has a YouTube Channel Like Festool to help with how to type questions.

I have some Woodcraft chisels, a few Swiss made(Pfeil) a Two Cherries, and a couple of old Stanleys. All but the Woodcraft were ready for use as is or with a little flattening and honing. The Woodcraft took a little more work, but after flattening and sharpening, they work surprisingly well. Like any other cutting tool, all work well when sharp.

I use Either Waterstones, Diamond stones and or sandpaper. If you don't have a grinder, or a fancy  jig, you can use a cheap jig a and make board with stops set at different lengths to so your chisel will be set to the angle(s) you desire. Once the angle is set, you can use glass and self stick sandpaper(cheapest) or waterstones. I've used from 80 to 400 to "re-grind" My Primary bevel, then went to higher grits to Hone/ polish the edge. Once you flatten the back of a chisel, the edge can and should be quick maintenance. Often all you need to do is rub the chisel on a strop(scrap piece of leather) to keep the edge. If you can cut paper with just the weight of the chisel pressing in or shave your forearm you know you're sharp.

[flash=200,200]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1F7q5WGb4ZA[/flash]

Though the attached video discusses plane blades, you can use the stop jig for chisels as well. *Note: Never use the ruler trick for a chisel. You want the back of a chisel to be flat as possible. Not necessarily the entire back, but a must at the business end.

I like my Glen Drake mallet: http://play-glen-drake.com/v-web/ecommerce/os/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=54&osCsid=dfa9cd1853a358d605eeff006a301c78.

It is expensive, but it is really well made. I've used other mallets when necessary, but I just like that Glen Drake mallet when I need one. It isn't all that often though. I can usually cut fine with a sharp chisel and light to moderate pressure.

 

[j123j]

I just ordered a set of the MHG's from my dealer in Germany!  The big advantage to the MGH's is that they can be sharpened all the way down to the nubs, whereas a lot of other high end chisels only have less than an inch of quality steel.

Cheers,

Frank
[/quote]

Eh? Which highend chisels have an inch of usable blade? I dont know any highend brands like that. Veritas, L-N, Blue Spruce, Jap. chisels, etc are hardened tool steel all the way.

 

[rustym]

I'll 3rd the Lie-Neilsons. They are great chisels.

Rusty

 

[woodguy7]

Lie-Nielson for me also.  The 2 Cherries are very good on a cheaper budget though.

 

[rrmccabe]

I recently stepped up to a set of Robert Sorby bench chisels.

And after doing so I can say my favorite chisels are still my cheap Irwin Marple's !

 

[waho6o9]

Here ya go for the chisels
http://festoolownersgroup.com/classifieds/solliden-sweden-chisels-32950/

And why not make your own mallet?

 

[carlb40]

I currently use Narex cabinet makers chisels and mortice chisels on site. They are very good for the money. As for a mallet, i use one i made myself from maple / purple heart with an Ash handle

 

[Runhard]

I really like Blue Spruce Toolworks chisels, mallets and marking tools.

http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/

 

[wow]

I have a set of decades-old blue handled Marples that were made - I think - in England. These are my 'everyday' woodworking chisels. Unless I am concerned that what I am working on might damage them, then I have a few old Stanleys that I use for chiseling when doing construction, etc.

I am interested in acquiring a 'really good' set of chisels, so this thread will be closely monitored.

 

[Linbro]

I ordered a set of four Narex 'premium' chisels, will report back when they arrive. Really interested to check out the quality, cause they were a very reasonable price, even with postage added.

 

[Loren Woirhaye]

Chisels are simple tools.  The length of the blade affects where they can go.  Marples style are long-bladed bench chisels and better for shop use than contractor's style butt chisels. 

Sharpening affects the results you'll get a lot.  Some higher-end chisels hold their edges for a long, long time.  Lower end chisels tend not to but they all take a keen edge with proper sharpening.

I usually hit chisels with a steel hammer so I prefer hooped wood handles or something like butyrate found in the Marples split-proof ones.  If you want to use a mallet that's another thing to buy or make and carry around.

If you get hooped chisels learn how to set the hoop.  If you don't the end will get mushroomed in an ugly way.

Video of me setting a chisel hoop:

 

[bobdny]

I am another Lie-Nielsen chisel fan. Years ago I started with a set of Marples blue handled chisels. Much later, when I started doing some hand tool woodworking, I bought a set of Narex chisels, which are a very good value for the money. However the Narex chisels were too large and clumsy for chopping hand cut dovetails. I finally spent the money for a set of 5 Lie-Nielsen A2 steel chisels. These proved to be perfect for hand-cut dovetails, and they held a sharp edge much, much longer than any of my previous chisels. Like buying Festools, buying top quality tools from people who really know and appreciate how tools are used in the real world, is always worth the extra money.

 

[jacko9]

Just a heads up guys, I just packaged my set of 6 Narex chisels to send them back to Lee Valley.  I have been in communication with their customer service department and they are very reasonable and helpful but, I can't cut hardwood (white oak) with these chisels.

I got them and sharpened with a progression of stones up to 8000 grit.  I used the Veritas Mk. II guide which is an excellent tool and had a nicely polished edge and back on all six of them.  I started cutting dovetail joints in white oak and it became apparent after striking the 1/2" chisel several times that the edge was completely destroyed and turned over into a wire burr on the back side.  I thought that possibly there could be an edge effect from the heat treatment so, I re-sharpened the 1/2" chisel and the results were the same (destroyed after several strikes). 

I set them aside and used my Japanese bench chisels to finish the work.  I believe that the Narex are a great value and can be used for most woods including softer hardwoods but I mostly use harder woods and these just won't work for me.

I ordered a set of the Hirsch German made mortise chisels to see if they stand up to hardest woods.  If not, I guess I'll buy a set of the high quality Japanese mortise chisels.

Jack

 

[rljatl]

For mortise chisels, these get great reviews:

English Mortise Chisels by Ray Iles