Clear Splinter Guard Sticking - Problems

grbmds

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May 5, 2013
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Recently there has been a thread which indicates people have had problems keeping their splinter guards stuck on the guide rails. I haven't had this problem and even have removed and "restock" one when cutting it again after exchange of the TS55 for the TS75. Is there a problem that requires all the extra tape and glue these guys say they need to keep it stuck on the rail? I have had no problems. What are they doing that makes this necessary? Or am I just lucky?
 
It's my understanding that Germany has already addressed the issue with a change in adhesive. I can only assume that the guide rails in questions may be older stock. Anyone who has a problem can contact our service department for assistance. Sorry for any frustration experienced by our customers.

Shane
 
I have a mix of rails with clear splinterguards and the original black ones.  Neither have a problem staying adhered.  On the other thread, I pointed out using double-stick turner's tape to reattach the strip because I was moving it to re-calibrate it to the saw blade; it's possible I could have reused the adhesive that was on that one.
 
My original black guide strips are still rather well stuck to the rails but have either worn or shrunk all the way back to the edge of the rail itself and my one clear one has never stuck well. That being said, they are all long overdue for replacement. It now being a year out from the OP, is it safe to assume that new, replacement guide strips will have the 'new' glue?
 
Harry,

I will defer to the members to give their feedback on how newer rails are doing.

Shane
 
I, for one, have had absolutely no problems with the splinter guard sticking, or for that matter, re-sticking when I moved it out a bit to recalibrate things. 

 
I have two older rails and both the strip has come loose. I think the Mississippi heat has gotten to them.  [crying]
 
I replaced my black strips on three rails back in the Spring with new clear strips.  I've had no problems with them not staying stuck.

neil
 
When ya remove the old one, do you still have to clean the rail prior to applying the new one?
 
The only problems I've had is when I remove and restock. I don't think the sticking power is sufficient the second time around even when the guide rail is cleaned thoroughly.
 
grbmds said:
The only problems I've had is when I remove and restock. I don't think the sticking power is sufficient the second time around even when the guide rail is cleaned thoroughly.

Same problem her the ends keep coming loose. I used some 3M VHB automotive tape. The VHB tape is expensive but it solved the problem. Might be next to impossible to replace but I will cross that bridge when the time comes...
 
I'm having the same problem with the clear splinter guard remaining stuck to my aluminum rails.

I have a number of different rails and the longer they go unused the more the splinter guard seems to become unstuck. All of the rails have the newer, see-through style guards and I've even purchased separate boxes of splinter guards and tried applying those without luck. When replacing the guards I use mineral spirits to remove any old residue and ensure that the aluminum is free of any grease or other contaminants that might impair adhesion, but alas, nothing's worked.

I do store my rails vertically, hanging from screws in the ceiling of my shop, as opposed to storing them flat where the weight of the aluminum rail might ensure the guards remain stuck in place. That's the only thing I can think that might help the adhesion process. If anyone has any ideas I'd be most appreciative. Some folks have discussed double-side tape, but could the extra thickness of that tape render the guard less effective? If not, what tape specifically would people recommend?

Oh, and hi everyone, I'm a long time troll, first time poster.............
 
Smellkiperjr said:
I'm having the same problem with the clear splinter guard remaining stuck to my aluminum rails.

I have a number of different rails and the longer they go unused the more the splinter guard seems to become unstuck. All of the rails have the newer, see-through style guards and I've even purchased separate boxes of splinter guards and tried applying those without luck. When replacing the guards I use mineral spirits to remove any old residue and ensure that the aluminum is free of any grease or other contaminants that might impair adhesion, but alas, nothing's worked.

I do store my rails vertically, hanging from screws in the ceiling of my shop, as opposed to storing them flat where the weight of the aluminum rail might ensure the guards remain stuck in place. That's the only thing I can think that might help the adhesion process. If anyone has any ideas I'd be most appreciative. Some folks have discussed double-side tape, but could the extra thickness of that tape render the guard less effective? If not, what tape specifically would people recommend?

Oh, and hi everyone, I'm a long time troll, first time poster.............

Smellkiperjr:

I'll let Shane or someone else address the Splinter Guard adhesive issue, but I wanted to say [welcome] to the FOG!

And you might be a lurker, but you're certainly not a troll. I hope we hear more from you, and we want to see pictures of your projects posted here soon!
 
Thanks for the welcome 'wow'. Lurker, THAT'S the word. It was late last night and I couldn't think of the appropriate term, and 'Troll' popped to my mind.

As for projects, I must confess I have a beautifully equipped shop filled with Festool green and Powermatic yellow, but after a medical issue rendered me disabled 4-5 years ago the shop's output has slowed to almost zero (hence the unused rails and their peeling splinter guards.)

Now although my shop's output has ground to a halt, my love of tool collecting has not. Based on the advice of my physician (who gave me the power tool version of the "You'll Shoot You're Eye Out Kid") I've altered my purchasing habits and now primarily target hand tools over power tools. The result has been the accumulation of a veritable treasure-trove of tools, many of which have yet to see any action, but I'm adamant that very soon work will begin in earnest, hence the query about the saw guides (I need to break down some sheet goods.)
 
Well I had some splinter guard stock and I needed to replace one. I noticed that FT did redesign the guard. It appears to be thicker then the last one I replace a couple of years ago. It also stuck to the rail with out the cleaning off of the gunk.

Now how longit will stay that way is another story. Ill lets yas know when i find out
 
I bought a 3000 guiderail, my first guiderail with the clear splinter guard (I have 3 others with the black).  From the day I received the guiderail and unpacked it, the splinter guard has refused to stay adhered.  Very frustrating and disappointing, especially when I paid dearly for the guiderail.
 
I replaced my splinterguard today on the MFT guide rail and thought I would share a couple of tips to help it adhere properly and stay in place.

- Use denatured alcohol to remove all the old glue.
- The new guide rail sits about 1/32" proud of the rib that runs along the guide rail that you butt the splinterguard up against. I use a burnisher to really compress the splinterguard into the rail.
- I start the splinterguard 1/2" in from each end and mitre the ends because this is where I am most likely to snag the guard and eventually it will come unstuck. With mitred ends it is harder to snag the guard.

Happy thanksgiving, hope this is useful.

 
I gave up on the clear and just ordered the Makita splinter guards.  I have yet to hear any complaints about that product.
 
I've replaced a couple of my splinter guards on my 1400 & 1900 rails. I've not had any issues with the guards coming un-stuck........but I ALWAYS clean the rails with De-Natured alcohol before applying the new strip. It works a treat as it removes all traces of dust and old glue residue. As the Alcohol evaporates completely, the splinter strips seem to stay stuck!!!!!

Just my 2p worth.

Tim.

 
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