Connecting two guide rails

[Carrara]

Hey..

Just wanted to ask you guys that have connected two guide rails with the FSV connector how straight you can expect it to be?

Ive seen online how they use a straight edge and butt it up against the rails while fastening the FSVs.

Maybe somebody has a photo?

Thanks for now..

 

[Stephen B]

[size=14pt]
No photo, but also leave a 2-3mm gap between the rails as the rail ends are not nessecearily 90 degrees to their long edge.

 

[Carrara]

OK thanks for the tip.. But the big question is: is it straight?  ???

 

[nerfball]

I've joined them and gotten excellent results.

However its a little finicky. They need to be calibrated against a straight edge and I would recommend simply purchasing the longer rails if you have the $$.

 

[Stephen B]

OK thanks for the tip.. But the big question is: is it straight?  ???

[size=18pt]
How long is a piece of string?  [smile]
[size=14pt]
Connecting a 1200 with a 1400mm  rail,  I am usually satisfied with result in cutting 2400mm sheet goods.

I insert both rods, slightly tension the back rod with rails against the straight edge, flip and then tension screws of front connecting rod, again with rails against straight edge, then fully tension back screws, then recheck with straight edge.

When funds permit, I will get a 3000mm rail. But for the moment I have other green priorities.

 

[Greg M]

Had trouble getting 2 rails lining up perfectly even using a straight edge.  It wasn't the easiest or fastest thing to accomplish.  However, after getting a Betterley it's now fast, easy, and accurate.

 

[Bohdan]

Made my own connectors in the style of the Makita ones, bought a 4m length of 3mm x 12 mm stainless bar for $10 cut it into 4 one metre lengths, drilled and tapped two lengths to take 4 6mm grub screws for expansion and one screw to hold the two lengths together.

The bar was slightly wider than 12 mm and it is a snug fit in the rails. The two rail grooves are slightly different size and I had to sand one connector down so that it would fit easily.

With the extra long bars I find that the rails lined up perfectly and it is almost impossible to misalign them.

Using Allen screws you can do them up really tight and they don't move with handling.

 

[anthonyz]

Hey..

Just wanted to ask you guys that have connected two guide rails with the FSV connector how straight you can expect it to be?

Ive seen online how they use a straight edge and butt it up against the rails while fastening the FSVs.

Maybe somebody has a photo?

Thanks for now..

I use the Betterley Straightline connector. It is a great and FAST way to connect two rails and get them straight. I have never has an issue with the results of connecting two rails. Well worth every penny, especially since I don't have the room in my truck, Tacoma, to safely carry a long rail. Also I can make a rail in any length with ease using a combination of multiple rails. Just make sure you have a slight gap between the rails when connecting them and when you lock down you will see the rails adjust into alignment.

http://www.festoolproducts.com/Betterley-SLC23-StraightLine-Connector-for-Guide-R-p/slc23.htm

 

[Sparktrician]

I second the motion for the Betterley Straightline Connector.  In the absence thereof, however, a 4' level or straightedge held against the back of the rails while tightening the connector bar screws works quite well. 

 

[rustym]

Do a search on "Betterley Straightline connector".  It is a good thread about the Betterley and some other ideas.  There is also a thread or two about connectors for rails that have been homemade and seem to work better than the ones from Festool.  Check it out.

Rusty

 

[grbmds]

I've used a 3 foot Woodpecker straight edge, a 4 foot level and now the Betterley guide. All have given me excellent results, but the Betterley is just that much easier, faster and does it perfectly every time without fuss.

I have also used a 36" Woodpecker straightedge. I don't find any problems with the rails being straight. It does take 5 minutes or so depending on what kind of surface you are laying them on to connect the connectors. I would guess the Betterly device is much faster, but I have not had any problems using the 36" straight edge. I've only connected shorter rails though. I don't have a need for anything longer than 8' so have only joined a 55" and 75" together. Just don't think I do that often enough to warrant the cost of the Betterly even though faster and more definite.

 

[ewils91]

Betterley here as well. Its worth the money for me in time savings.

 

[Coen]

I would put that $100 towards a longer rail instead of a fancy connector.

I've connected 1400's with each other and with an 800 (not three at same time) and i got acceptable straightness. I never leave a gap between the rails. Seems when I do, I end up with worse straightness.

 

[SteveD]

I use a 6' length of 1/8" aluminium angle (that's aluminum to some) from the big box store for alignment. The heavier 'duty' and longer the better, but check it is straight first. I lightly preset one rail with the two connectors then put on the other rail leaving a small gap between them.
Now here's the alternative bit.
Put the aluminium  angle over the EDGE of the workbench.
Put the two rails with the slide edge on top of the aluminium angle - vertical. Thus the cutting edge is down the side of the bench and the open 'clamp/sliding' channel and underside are facing you. Gravity holds the rails down flat - on the sliding edge of the channel - so you can reach both sides (connectors) without having to flip or move the rail enabling you to tighten both as needed. Your body can hold the rails against the bench. A really long rail make-up can be a problem but to make 8' or 10' is easy.
I sometimes have to join 3 rails together - I just put the shortest one in the middle and slide along as needed. For 10' plus it is often a two person job anyway as the stress of moving 3 joined rails versus the screw power to hold them in alignment can be a problem. I have at least one rail that has a bulge due to over-tightening screws.
I did see one woodworker who had replaced his guide rail standard screws with hex grub screws and then used a ball head hex driver to tighten them. That made so much sense when working solo and was so much easier that I was surprised Festool didn't do it to start with. I could never find the flat bottomed variety of grub screw in the correct length so I suffer with the standard.
I have also experienced the slide part (hump) of a'track' being different size to another and the ends not being 90 degrees. Not being a wood 'engineer' this is not a problem - but sure as heck can be annoying at times. I keep forgetting to label the rails with the mis-match. 

 

[Paul G]

Also watch out for over tightening and screwing up your rail. When do you know it's too tight? When you screw up your rail. So to avoid that it's too loose and slips out of alignment if you don't be careful. IMO the connectors are the Achilles Heel of the rail system and needs a do over by the engineers. Yes you can get them joined straight and can easily be made un-straight by bumping the assembly. Check it with a straight edge regularly.

 

[Sparktrician]

As long as we're talking about the screws themselves, there is another option.  I find them far less likely to slip on the aluminum.  YMMV... 

[smile]

 

[grbmds]

As always, for me, it's a matter of whether you are a hobby woodworker or professional, how often you join rails, what you use them for, and whether you are satisfied with the accuracy and straightness you get from joining rails using a good straight edge. For me personally, I don't join two rails together enough to make that $100 I'd spend on the Betterley connector worth it. Would it be faster, possibly more accurate. Sure it would. However, I just take a few more minutes of time to join the rails, using a Woodpecker's straight edge, and I am satisfied. I have not noticed any inaccuracies from using this method. It's all about how often you do this, what you use it for, and how precise you want to be. Without the Betterley, it's precise and accurate already.

 

[Greg M]

Without the Betterley, it's precise and accurate already.

I'm not saying you can't get an accurate alignment of the rails.  It's not that easy to get a 55" and 75" rail aligned so that they're perfectly straight and it's not a quick process.  Mine always seemed to be slightly off.  This is one area that Festool falls short.  Maybe there's a little marketing that played into the design in that they want to sell more of the over priced longer rails.

The Betterley is a way to get perfectly aligned rails very quickly.  People might complain about the $99 but it's not a lot of money when you put it in perspective with the cost of your Festool equipment and accessories.  It does help in getting more accuracy very quickly. 

Faster Easier Smarter
Doesn't that fit the Betterley?

 

[Roman]

Hi guys I know I am off topic but wondering if I connect 55" to 75" will be enough to cut 8 ft of ply , because there should be little overhang on both sides if I am not mistaken, thank you

 

[Sparktrician]

Two 55" rails will do the job very well with a TS 55, so the 55" + 75+ combination is a piece of cake, but necessary with the TS 75.