Consolidated Q&A for CMS Router Table

Curious if the sliding table and fence could be attached to my existing router table? Would it be possible to screw it into a vertical wooden surface? How is it supported with the CMS? Really need to see one in person but there are no stocking dealers around here. Thinking it would be a really useful item. If not adaptable, any other suggestions for a smallish sliding table?

Also, is the starting pin gizmo going to be sold separately? That would be easy to adapt to my current aluminum router plate.
Thanks. Pete
 
PeterK said:
Curious if the sliding table and fence could be attached to my existing router table? Would it be possible to screw it into a vertical wooden surface? How is it supported with the CMS? Really need to see one in person but there are no stocking dealers around here. Thinking it would be a really useful item. If not adaptable, any other suggestions for a smallish sliding table?

Also, is the starting pin gizmo going to be sold separately? That would be easy to adapt to my current aluminum router plate.
Thanks. Pete

You would probably have to add a piece of 3/4" build-up to the edge of your table to support the top lip of the rail. Something to "hang" the v-notch pads from. Beyond that, it would be pretty easy to do.

The guide finger comes with the standard baseplate kit that includes the fence, baseplate, and hand guard (the part with the guide finger.).
 
Shane Holland said:
lambeater said:
Thanks Shane so what happens when someone mounts another manufactures router on the base as in a previous post? Will their warranty be voided because its not an of 1100 or 1400? just trying to clarify?

Per the manual:

Only the CMS-OF and the routers OF 1400 and OF
1010 offered by Festool may be installed.

Any deviation from using the tool as described in the manual will result in void of the warranty.

My apologies for not reviewing the manual before commenting on this before.

Who will be appointed to the position of monitoring people for a violation and warranty nullification or will this be based on the honor system -- come clean or we'll find you?
 
I addition to Brice's great videos, for anyone who's planning on getting a CMS, check out this video that shows up to set it up and calibrate it.

 
I've had major computer problems this past week that put me significantly behind schedule. I'm literally proofing it as your message was posted. Is there anyone in the middle of a setup that would like to review it privately?
 
RonWen said:
Perhaps it would be more convenient to use two (2) wrenches to change bits rather than reaching under the table twice for each bit change?

Before I found a CMS sticking to my fingers, only removable in my own barn, i did watch Sal trying one out @ the Tool Nut.  It doesn't look like much of a problem reaching underneath the table, but I do have a rather problematic back.  sometimes, if i bend too far for too long (sometimes very short time means too long), i can not straighten back up, sometimes can't even walk.  It is easier, possibly, to just lift out the plate with router still attached to make a bit change.  That was, for me one of the reasons that sucker stuck to my fingers so tenaciously.

There has also been question of stability for such a small table.  i had wondered about that as well.  With router, sliding table and outfeed attached, i was very much surprised at the stability of the whole rig.  I did not see it without slider and outfeed, so i cannot attest to stability without those extras.  I don't think the stability is entirely dependent on the additional weight.  I am hoping to set it up later today, and should be better informed then. For the most part, it will remain set up without the add-ons.  Just router and fence. 

For some operations, i really like that arrangemet to bypass using a pin for freehand work.  I never have been totally comfortable using the pin.  Festoys CMS solution is, to me, quite ingenious.  I have never seen that and it really works great.  I need to make up some loose tennons very soon, and that looks terrific.  I don't have the apprehensions to use that as i do with using a pin to guide at the start of routing edges or patterns.
Tinker
 
Can someone please measure the distance between the the dust port at the rear and the table itself? It looks to be about 15mm give or take but can't find a decent enough picture to confirm or get away from work to visit my local dealer. I am going to order the module for my CMS set-up in the next week and have been looking at options for a third party micro adjuster. So far, I have been looking at the woodpeckers version and believe that I can make a bracket to fit on the side of the CMS stand, and then turn the fence attaching plate upside down and cut a small semi-circle out to fit around the dust port. But this all depends on the height that I need and of course the diameter of the threaded section in the adjuster. I know that the hose will probably be in the way, but can be removed for adjustment and re-attached when complete.
Cheers,
 
BT50 said:
Can someone please measure the distance between the the dust port at the rear and the table itself? It looks to be about 15mm give or take but can't find a decent enough picture to confirm or get away from work to visit my local dealer. I am going to order the module for my CMS set-up in the next week and have been looking at options for a third party micro adjuster. So far, I have been looking at the woodpeckers version and believe that I can make a bracket to fit on the side of the CMS stand, and then turn the fence attaching plate upside down and cut a small semi-circle out to fit around the dust port. But this all depends on the height that I need and of course the diameter of the threaded section in the adjuster. I know that the hose will probably be in the way, but can be removed for adjustment and re-attached when complete.
Cheers,

You are correct, the bottom of the vac port is 15 mm from the table surface!  I'm interested to see what you come up with!

Bob

Bob
 
I made this short video about jointing on the CMS table, in particular to show how to adjust the fences to make them coplanar. Thanks to Nigel for highlighting the adjustment screws.

 
Admittedly, I haven't read through this entire thread yet to see if my question has already been answered but....how adjustable (if at all) are the legs on the cms that connects to the mft?  I am hoping to buy a Sawstop this next year and plan on making an assembly table that is topped with two mft's that wil double as an outfeed table.  The height of the sawstop is 34" so I can make the cart with the mft's on it that height but it wouldn't solve the problem of the cms being too tall.
 
Richard,

Thanks for that video!

As a side note - I hate the fact you live in Quebec!.  That would have been a great contest entry.

Is it fair to assume that your panel after jointing still has to be cut to final size?

Peter
 
rnt80 said:
Admittedly, I haven't read through this entire thread yet to see if my question has already been answered but....how adjustable (if at all) are the legs on the cms that connects to the mft?  I am hoping to buy a Sawstop this next year and plan on making an assembly table that is topped with two mft's that wil double as an outfeed table.  The height of the sawstop is 34" so I can make the cart with the mft's on it that height but it wouldn't solve the problem of the cms being too tall.

Russell,  the CMS is the same height as the MfT/3.  Just like the MFT it can be used (as far as I know only with the 4 legged version - someone please correct me if I am wrong) with the legs folded up.  You could build another dedicated cart for it to match.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
Richard,

Thanks for that video!

As a side note - I hate the fact you live in Quebec!.  That would have been a great contest entry.

Is it fair to assume that your panel after jointing still has to be cut to final size?

Peter

Thanks Peter. Because this is a replacement door I had already prepared my lamination to within a whisker of the final dimension using the previous door as a template, so no further cutting is needed. I just had to sand the edges to soften the arrises and trim the door to fit with a block plane (as the actual cabinet side is very slightly bowed).

P.S. I'm not that keen on Quebec either, but moving to another province in order to enter a video on the FOG might not go down too well with the old lady!
 
Tom Bellemare, Gregory Paolini and Dave Reinhold have also done videos about using the CMS as a jointer just for more information on the topic. Thanks for the video, Richard.






 
I think it was Rick (way back in the dim past) who warned about turning off the trigger switch on the router before trying to loosen the bit by using the ratchet method.  I had read that, but of course, the first time i used the CMS, i was so excited I completely forgot about that little (but very important) point. I could not figure out how to make the ratchet work and thought there was something wrong with my router (1400).  i proceeded to remove the mounting plate and prepare to remove the router to figure out the problem. 

My second mistook was to try to remove the plate by inserting my thumbs into the two corner holes.  Everybody knows that thumbs are what makes mankind different than monkeys and supposedly the fact that thumbs can work in opposition to the rest of ones fingers makes man smarter or more efficient or something like that.  Any how, i lifted that plate with no problem.  About the time i reallized that i was making a mistook, I also had slid the back side of the plate beyond that ridge that the backside drops into for stability.  i suppose somebody must have thought along the way that ridge and indent was a great way to sort of raise the plate up to clear the router from the hole and thus get the whole rig into a position to start working directly on the router.  Well now, i suppose that somebody might well have been somewhat smarter than I, or he may have made the same mistook along the line and decided to put that ridge and channel there in hopes nobody else would fall into the same trap.  As for me, about the same time i realized my error, the back end of that plate cleared the lip and dropped down below the table.  the router was now caught under the near side of the table opening and the near sides of both of those finger holes were digging fiercely into the bony sides of my thumbs.  A very uncomfortable situation, i kid you not.  As I tried to lift the entire rig up high enough to clear the opening, i realized i was in a situation I was also trying to lift the table, router and worst of all, i was forcing my thumbs into a much increased discomfort. I felt like i was either going to break both thumbs, or maybe i could make nice clean cuts right thru the bone and forget about the whole thing.  After all, monkeys have survived for more than a few years without having much use for thumbs. 

Oh well, i began to think about how many uses i had for two thumbs and started to analyze what was happening.  I finally decided i could twist the plate so it was catty cornered in the opening.  From there, i could put transfer the weight from my thumbs to the sides of the table.  Within a few more seconds, I was finally free.  A few very obvious indentations on the backs of my thumbs, but no blood.  As a result, i now know to hit that trigger switch on the router before trying to remove the bit.

Oh, yeah, i remember also, DO NOT USE YOUR THUMBS TO REMOVE THE MOUNTING PLATE. That can get to be quite exciting. 
Tinker
 
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