CT48 shuts off randomly

grbmds

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I searched for a previous post on this subject, but couldn't find one....

Recently my CT48 extractor shuts off during use. It occurs in the manual on/off mode, but it's possible that it also does it when using the extractor in the auto on/off mode with a tool plugged in. After I turn the switch off, then back on, it runs again. Sometimes it will shut of a second time, but mostly it just works as it's supposed to. I noticed it once or twice some time ago, but now it's more frequent.

It's not a plug or power cord thing because it will turn back on without unplugging/plugging back in.

Has anyone else experienced this? My CT48 is more than 5 years old and is used completely indoors in my shop. I have not checked the filter bag to determine if it's full, but the last time it was full, it didn't act this way and, if it's due to a full bag, I would assume it would not turn back on again.
 
I had my CTL 26 in the thermal shut-off for the first time in late 2024 when using it with ~10 meter of connected hoses and suffocating it. But then it needs to cooldown and if after that use conditions don't change... it will just arrive at the same shut-off.

Anyway, the circuit board of the CTL are covered in epoxy. It's hard to figure out what is broken and even harder to repair it, because before you can get to any component you need to remove the epoxy. On the other hand, the epoxy probably prevents a bunch of other failures.

For fault finding; it's possible to completely bypass the circuit board and plug straight grid voltage in the motor. However, you are then also bypassing the thermal protection.

Did at any time a small plume of smoke appear near the front?
 
I had my CTL 26 in the thermal shut-off for the first time in late 2024 when using it with ~10 meter of connected hoses and suffocating it. But then it needs to cooldown and if after that use conditions don't change... it will just arrive at the same shut-off.

Anyway, the circuit board of the CTL are covered in epoxy. It's hard to figure out what is broken and even harder to repair it, because before you can get to any component you need to remove the epoxy. On the other hand, the epoxy probably prevents a bunch of other failures.

For fault finding; it's possible to completely bypass the circuit board and plug straight grid voltage in the motor. However, you are then also bypassing the thermal protection.

Did at any time a small plume of smoke appear near the front?
No. No smoke... that I'm aware of. I did pull the switch cover off and tightened down the mounting screws which seemed to be slightly loose (or at least not completely tightened down). I haven't used it much since I did that so don't know whether the problem still exists. I kind of doubt that was the problem, but time will tell.
 
No it works with the circuit board just floating without cover just fine, so that ain't it.
 
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