Grasshopper said:
I was using the "Search" feature and came across this old thread.
My situation is a little different, since I will be installing paint grade 7 1/4" x 3/4" baseboards, and there is a profile (so butt joints on outside corners is not an option).
How do you approach cutting outside miters with large baseboard (I'll cope all inside miters), when cutting on the flat with the Kapex?
I read the outside corner with a Starret gauge and set the miter based on that. When I cut base on the flat I reference the top edge off the fence for the sake of simplicity. Feeding material this way gives you a good visual of how the material will look when it's on the wall and cuts down on mistakes. It's as close to the vantage point you get cutting in position as you can get on the flat.
I mark outside corners in place at the long point instead of the short point. You take 2 short pieces of base long enough to make it past the mud build up at the corner and push them up against the wall as they will sit when installed and trace a pencil line at the bottom edge on the floor. You mark off those lines. I often reference the Starret gauge off the 2 pieces pushed up against the corner instead of the drywall corner. If you mark the short point off the wall you can get thrown off by mud build up and the way the base sits based on the wall conditions. Marking the longs also ensures that you can always see the mark easily when cutting. On the flat you just creep up on the mark on the face and in position I just line the mark up with the kerf in my zero clearance insert and drop the saw.
To assemble outside corners I use Titebond I, Collins pinch clamps, and pins.
Most of the base I run at that height is a 2 part. I find in easier to work with than one piece. Either way check your material for cups. Cupped mouldings on the flat gets real interesting.
