cutting 8" baseboard

JMB,

We call those gaps "air returns".  If you walk by quickly, they're less noticeable.  Fast walkers make for easier customers.
 
Ken Nagrod said:
JMB,

We call those gaps "air returns".  If you walk by quickly, they're less noticeable.  Fast walkers make for easier customers.

I wish it did!  even when I close my eyes I still see the gaps!
 
jmbfestool said:
Here you go like I said I was going to show some pictures on HOW NOT TO DO SKIRTING!   

(This carpenter was trying to convince the client he will build the units for the wardrobes and get me to make the doors for them units! I told the client basically I dont want anything to do with the wardrobes if he works on them)   Well.........im doing the wardrobes top to bottom  [big grin] and you can see why I wasnt happy with having him doing the wardrobe units from the pictures below!

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You can see the ball ontop of the newel post looks like its going to fall off! haahaa! HE didnt stick da on straight did he!
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This is why I don't let anyone work on my house.
 
All it needs is some "haf-inch mold", you know, the kind that comes in a tubes in assorted colors [smile]
 
I was using the "Search" feature and came across this old thread.

My situation is a little different, since I will be installing paint grade 7 1/4" x 3/4" baseboards, and there is a profile (so butt joints on outside corners is not an option).

How do you approach cutting outside miters with large baseboard (I'll cope all inside miters), when cutting on the flat with the Kapex?
 
Reading this old thread I really wanted to see [member=5671]jmbfestool[/member] s pics of the architrave lol
Pics are now deleted :(
 
Grasshopper use the angle guage to get the angle of the outside corner. Set against fence and use the laser to set the angle. Once set read angle on the miter guage and use that for your bevel angle. I use 2p10 to pre glue all my miters .
Good luck and have fun!
 
jmac80 said:
Reading this old thread I really wanted to see [member=5671]jmbfestool[/member] s pics of the architrave lol
Pics are now deleted :(

Sorry I noticed yesterday they had been deleted

I might be able to find them but I doubt it.  The pictures weren't something I ever thought I needed to keep stored somewhere.  Kinda thought fog would have left them up.
 
Grasshopper said:
I was using the "Search" feature and came across this old thread.

My situation is a little different, since I will be installing paint grade 7 1/4" x 3/4" baseboards, and there is a profile (so butt joints on outside corners is not an option).

How do you approach cutting outside miters with large baseboard (I'll cope all inside miters), when cutting on the flat with the Kapex?

I read the outside corner with a Starret gauge and set the miter based on that.  When I cut base on the flat I reference the top edge off the fence for the sake of simplicity.  Feeding material this way gives you a good visual of how the material will look when it's on the wall and cuts down on mistakes. It's as close to the vantage point you get cutting in position as you can get on the flat.

I mark outside corners in place at the long point instead of the short point.  You take 2 short pieces of base long enough to make it past the mud build up at the corner and push them up against the wall as they will sit when installed and trace a pencil line at the bottom edge on the floor. You mark off those lines. I often reference the Starret gauge off the 2 pieces pushed up against the corner instead of the drywall corner.  If you mark the short point off the wall you can get thrown off by mud build up and the way the base sits based on the wall conditions.  Marking the longs also ensures that you can always see the mark easily when cutting.  On the flat you just creep up on the mark on the face and in position I just line the mark up with the kerf in my zero clearance insert and drop the saw.

To assemble outside corners I use Titebond I, Collins pinch clamps, and pins.

Most of the base I run at that height is a 2 part.  I find in easier to work with than one piece.  Either way check your material for cups.  Cupped mouldings on the flat gets real interesting.
 
Justin,

Very good advice.  Thank you.

I had no idea how big a pain large 1-piece baseboard is.

I have gained serious respect for those who have mastered this.  I cannot even fathom attempting stain grade, as I have made good use of caulk on this project.

justinh said:
Grasshopper said:
I was using the "Search" feature and came across this old thread.

My situation is a little different, since I will be installing paint grade 7 1/4" x 3/4" baseboards, and there is a profile (so butt joints on outside corners is not an option).

How do you approach cutting outside miters with large baseboard (I'll cope all inside miters), when cutting on the flat with the Kapex?

I read the outside corner with a Starret gauge and set the miter based on that.  When I cut base on the flat I reference the top edge off the fence for the sake of simplicity.  Feeding material this way gives you a good visual of how the material will look when it's on the wall and cuts down on mistakes. It's as close to the vantage point you get cutting in position as you can get on the flat.

I mark outside corners in place at the long point instead of the short point.  You take 2 short pieces of base long enough to make it past the mud build up at the corner and push them up against the wall as they will sit when installed and trace a pencil line at the bottom edge on the floor. You mark off those lines. I often reference the Starret gauge off the 2 pieces pushed up against the corner instead of the drywall corner.  If you mark the short point off the wall you can get thrown off by mud build up and the way the base sits based on the wall conditions.  Marking the longs also ensures that you can always see the mark easily when cutting.  On the flat you just creep up on the mark on the face and in position I just line the mark up with the kerf in my zero clearance insert and drop the saw.

To assemble outside corners I use Titebond I, Collins pinch clamps, and pins.

Most of the base I run at that height is a 2 part.  I find in easier to work with than one piece.  Either way check your material for cups.  Cupped mouldings on the flat gets real interesting.
 
jmbfestool said:
Wa No way man! 

Whats this never be seen?!?!    You cant do da!  Leaving end grain exposed will ALWAYS be seen.    Glue filler wont work. Wood moves only has to move so little and you will see the joint.    ALWAYS mitre it on external corners even if it has no profile.    I dont think just butting the baseboard up on external corners is very good at all.  Seems cowboy way of doing it to be honest like a DIY'er

+1 what Dean said!  But I never use my kapex angle finder cus I dont know where is it lol.    I use my carpenters square  I stick that on and I know from looking at it what the angle is pretty much get on the mark every time.
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Yeah totally agree not good way diy way
 
It's not terribly different than smaller material.  Most of the techniques I listed I would use on 3 1/4" base.  In some ways the larger sizes are more forgiving because they don't want to dive into the factory tapered edge of the drywall that is almost always left down at the floor and if I have so smash build up out of the way to plane out the miters the extra size pretty much guarantees that the base will cover it.

I prefer the 2 part because I like to cut in position and I can easily fit it under the saw.  I can also back cut the angles on the outside corners and whatever gap that may show on the top will be covered by the smaller and easy to fit cap.  The pilaster portion of the base is usually thinner than the one piece trim and easier to form to walls that are less than flat. 
 
No problem with internal scribes and quite like the short stub internal mitres someone else mentioned...but never ever butt joints on externals..ever!
I use the Kapex angle finder for this type of work now because it's accurate and precise.
Before the kapex I used a technique I was shown years ago. Take a short piece of the material and draw a light pencil mark on the floor where the joint intersects. Place your piece on the wall and mark where the points cross on the bottom of your piece and square up to the top. Mark the internal point or wall corner and join the lines and cut. It's especially easy when your cutting them by hand.
 
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