Cutting a metal door

[HappyCamper]

I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door.  This is a standard exterior metal door of thin metal sheeting with a wood strip around the edges and I think some kind of foam in various places.  I am just need to trim a small amount off this door so the part I will be cutting will be a thin steel over wood.  Is this adviseable with the plunge saw and if so which blade to use?  Any body ever try it?  I am open to suggestions.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

My suggestion, TS75 with the steel cutting blade.  Can you pull it off with a stock blade on the TS55 or 75 safely?  Maybe, maybe not.  Should you (for the blade's sake)?  Probably not and the 55 will have a harder time doing it.

 

[Holzhacker]

I've done it a few times with my 75. I bought the metal blade Festool recommends, don't know the number. The blade wasn't cheap but replacing a shot wood blade wouldn't have cost much less so I bought the right blade. As much as I complain about not giving a damn about the 10% off deals. I did actually stock up on blades during that sale.
Having bought any sandpaper though lately [big grin]

 

[HappyCamper]

I only have the 55, so the metal cutting blade for the 75 is not an option.  In Canada here, I would be out over $1,000 for the 75 with the right blade.    Has anyone done this with the jigsaw blade 486559?  I do have the blade 496307 for the 55 which is for Corian and aluminum.  Even if I had to get the blade resharpend, it would still be cheaper to try it.  My only concern is the quality of the cut.  I only need to make the one cut.  Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

[waho6o9]

Ask Bob Marino he'll know.
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/Default.asp?bhcd2=1289531945
1 866 Festool

All The Best

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I'm sure Forrest Blade would modify/make one for you for considerably less than the price of a TS75 and steel cutting blade.  Give 'em a call.  Can't hurt to ask.

 

[HappyCamper]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I ended up using the Festool jigsaw with a bi-metal blade recommeded for sandwiched material.  It went rather badly.  Fortunately, I can hide it all with the draft stop.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......

Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today.  I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out.  I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected.

 

[Holzhacker]

It went rather badly, WHY? Blade didn't work out or keeping a straight cut. I've also cut metal doors with jigsaws and a metal blade. The right blade and it should work fine. If however it was keeping it straight, consider the Trion guiderail adapter plate. I have one, use it only rarely but those few times it kicked butt. Clamping the rail to the door and riding the Trion along for a straight cut not only makes for a nice job but impresses the crap out of the client.

 

[joinery45]

I cut 20 to 24 ga. sheet metal with my AT65E all the time. I lay the steel on top of a 3/4'' sheet of MDF for back up.  I use the fine cut ATB blade, set the speed to one and the depth to 3, or until the ATB teeth show up as two parallel  lines.  Then slowly but surely I just keep lowering the blade until I cut through. Maybe 4 passes.

 

[peter halle]

I use the guiderail clamped backwards (none splinterguard side towards the cut) and then use this type of blade on a conventional circular saw.  No chip collection and most importantly - Wear Safety Glasses or Safety Goggles! 

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Peter

 

[lambeater]

Metal doors cut very easily. I just clamp a straight edge on as a guide and use my regular 81/4 dewalt saw with a carbide blade on it. Caution wear a good mask as there is alittle hot metal flying around.

Lambeater

 

[Sam Murdoch]

Metal doors cut very easily. I just clamp a straight edge on as a guide and use my regular 81/4 dewalt saw with a carbide blade on it. Caution wear a good mask as there is alittle hot metal flying around.

Lambeater

+1 to this technique, but I add a sheet of plywood between my saw and the door - that is - I attach a straight edge as a guide to a piece of plywood , clamp it all down then rip through my ply and the door. The ply keeps the metal edge from pulling up (especially when trimming close to the edge). I would not trash my Festool saw and guide on such a job. But, you are done now... [smile].

 

[cairnstone]

I have trimmed a couple doors using the makita track saw no issues what so ever.  The out skin on the doors that I cut down appeared to be alminium not ferous so there was no damage to the blade.  I make sure that the blade was changed after so that the saw was ready to go for the next use.  Blade went for resharping after and was better than new

 

[greenMonster]

I must suck with a grinder...I don't know how anyone can cut a clean straight line with a grinder  [embarassed]

I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......

Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today.  I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out.  I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I must suck with a grinder...I don't know how anyone can cut a clean straight line with a grinder  [embarassed]

I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......

Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today.  I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out.  I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected.

Mental focus.....

 

[greenMonster]

Not worthy oh obi one.

no secret voodoo?

I must suck with a grinder...I don't know how anyone can cut a clean straight line with a grinder  [embarassed]

I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......

Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today.  I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out.  I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected.

Mental focus.....

 

[Brice Burrell]

Not worthy oh obi one.

no secret voodoo?

I must suck with a grinder...I don't know how anyone can cut a clean straight line with a grinder  [embarassed]

I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......

Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today.  I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out.  I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected.

Mental focus.....

I remember a few years back there was some young kid, 18 or 19 years old on one of our jobs.  He was trying to loosen a really tight slotted screw on some tool he was working on.  After watching him struggle I offered to give it a try.  He said "Sure, give it a shot, but if I can't get it to come loose I doubt you'll be able to."  He handed me the screwdriver and a few seconds later I had it loosened.  "Wow, how did you do that?" he asked.  I said, "Mental focus".  To that kid, focus might as well have been voodoo. [big grin]      

 

[greenMonster]

Any Sufficiently Advanced Technology is Indistinguishable from Magic

Grinder just seems like such a blunt tool...then again, I'm a wiz with a sawzall

 

[richard.selwyn]

According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard