Cutting flooring with nails
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Brice Burrell
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Charimon said:
I'd like to know more about this blade.
score0matic
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Brice, I have the Panasonic 15.6V metal saw (it is obsolete for me as the bats have died and I have moved on to another platform) It uses a 20 mm Arbor which is the same as the TS55. I put the blade on my TS 55 to cut a hard wood floor for a tile set. It is best to make a couple passes with the TS as the negative hook will burn on deeper cuts, Nails mean nothing to this saw-blade and it cuts clean. Because it is a smaller Dia you have to manually set the depth as guide is not accurate.
Bosch's Construct Wood (NAINA) is designed for wood with nails and concrete residual. Bosch makes it in different sizes so you can find size for TS-55, ATF-65, TS-75 and Kapex. I've sent few inquires to Bosch USA, but they don't know what I'm talking about.
Brice Burrell
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Charimon said:
Thanks, that was helpful. I wonder how it would do on steel doors?
score0matic
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Hmmmm, hadn't thot of that [thumbs up] depth may be an issue and you might want to actually use the speed control.
Remind me if i dont make a post of it next week
Remind me if i dont make a post of it next week
Ken Nagrod
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I've been buying these blades from Home Depot, just for cutting wood with nails and they last a long time. Not sure if it's a DeWalt blade or another brand. I use it on my Bosch worm drive saw.
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When i was doing those naughty things with my saw, i don't recall the anti kickback construction of the teeth. Pansonic and Ken's blades look like they would be very good for the purpose we are discussing. The anti kickback ridges will prevent too big a bite when hitting nails. I notice the Panasonic is negative pitch; while Ken's blade is positive pitch. Evidently, if the blade is constructed with adequate anti kickback properties, the pitch becomes non important.
question for Ken: Have you used the blade for cutting flooring? Or for cutting framing lumber only? Flooring nails, i believe, are much harder. Whenever i had to cut out wood flooring (those were demo jobs), i would start out with an already damaged blade. I knew the hardened nails would probably be the end of the blade no mater what condition it was in at the start. With common nails used for framing, form work and scaffolding it was possible to use a blade for weeks. As i said above, i just used them until warpage came into play. How long have you used the blade you show above? By the face of the blade, it loks as if it has taken a beating. The teeth, however, are still in good condition.
there have been so many developements since i got away from the trades it is mind boggeling.
Tinker
question for Ken: Have you used the blade for cutting flooring? Or for cutting framing lumber only? Flooring nails, i believe, are much harder. Whenever i had to cut out wood flooring (those were demo jobs), i would start out with an already damaged blade. I knew the hardened nails would probably be the end of the blade no mater what condition it was in at the start. With common nails used for framing, form work and scaffolding it was possible to use a blade for weeks. As i said above, i just used them until warpage came into play. How long have you used the blade you show above? By the face of the blade, it loks as if it has taken a beating. The teeth, however, are still in good condition.
there have been so many developements since i got away from the trades it is mind boggeling.
Tinker
Ken Nagrod
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Wayne,
That blade pictured is a thin kerf blade. I don't recall that I used this blade with flooring nails and it has received a lot of use on framing lumber, sides of houses, subfloors and still cuts well. I did use a thicker kerfed blade previously and had used that for all of that stuff plus flooring nails and it held up quite well. I don't think Home Depot sells the thick kerfed nail cutting blade anymore and I don't recall the manufacturer. You could always try one of these blades (demo blades) and they are cheap enough that if you kill it, it won't cost a lot (I think less than $10) to change it out for a fresh blade when the cutting is no longer up to par. I would never knowingly use one of my Festool blades or good Freud blades to cut nails in wood or other materials.
Something else I just thought of. I had a retired carpenter help me out while working on his house. We were cutting out damaged sheathing on the side of the house and I let him use my Porter Cable 314 trim saw with the 20 tooth carbide tipped blade. It only cuts 1 1/4" deep which is enough for things like flooring and it cut through the nails without dulling or damage. Not sure how it would handle modern flooring nails, but I have used it to cut out damaged floor boards in 200 year old houses without any problems. You just have to watch the kickback with that little saw. It's a worm drive.
That blade pictured is a thin kerf blade. I don't recall that I used this blade with flooring nails and it has received a lot of use on framing lumber, sides of houses, subfloors and still cuts well. I did use a thicker kerfed blade previously and had used that for all of that stuff plus flooring nails and it held up quite well. I don't think Home Depot sells the thick kerfed nail cutting blade anymore and I don't recall the manufacturer. You could always try one of these blades (demo blades) and they are cheap enough that if you kill it, it won't cost a lot (I think less than $10) to change it out for a fresh blade when the cutting is no longer up to par. I would never knowingly use one of my Festool blades or good Freud blades to cut nails in wood or other materials.
Something else I just thought of. I had a retired carpenter help me out while working on his house. We were cutting out damaged sheathing on the side of the house and I let him use my Porter Cable 314 trim saw with the 20 tooth carbide tipped blade. It only cuts 1 1/4" deep which is enough for things like flooring and it cut through the nails without dulling or damage. Not sure how it would handle modern flooring nails, but I have used it to cut out damaged floor boards in 200 year old houses without any problems. You just have to watch the kickback with that little saw. It's a worm drive.
I think if we put all of the info together that we have received in this discussion adds up to: (for my info anyhow)
smaller teeth that will do the job while still cutting thru wood with efficiency
Anti kick back construction (guarantees the cut not to be too deep)
Negative pitch (some blades shown had positive pitch. I personally would stick with neg pitch, others can draw own conclusions
Shallowest cuts possible (this from Ken's latest post)
Others might find different conclusions. I don't remember whetherI looked for cheapest blades or not. i said yesterday that I used Milwaukee blades for cutting the rough stuff. On second thught, that might have been a lie [scratch chin] I think my lumber supplier carried Amana blades at that time. I used Freud blades for any finish work or for cutting clean lumber. I do know that I always got the negative pitch blades for the debris laden lumber.
note about Festool blades and bits: I have hit nails with both blade and router bits and have yet to find a ding (seen by naked eye) from such encounters. Not even a tiny chip from the corner of a tooth.
Tinker
smaller teeth that will do the job while still cutting thru wood with efficiency
Anti kick back construction (guarantees the cut not to be too deep)
Negative pitch (some blades shown had positive pitch. I personally would stick with neg pitch, others can draw own conclusions
Shallowest cuts possible (this from Ken's latest post)
Others might find different conclusions. I don't remember whetherI looked for cheapest blades or not. i said yesterday that I used Milwaukee blades for cutting the rough stuff. On second thught, that might have been a lie [scratch chin] I think my lumber supplier carried Amana blades at that time. I used Freud blades for any finish work or for cutting clean lumber. I do know that I always got the negative pitch blades for the debris laden lumber.
note about Festool blades and bits: I have hit nails with both blade and router bits and have yet to find a ding (seen by naked eye) from such encounters. Not even a tiny chip from the corner of a tooth.
Tinker
